- Large patch<\/a><\/li>
- Dollar spot<\/a><\/li>
- Leaf spot and melting out<\/a><\/li>
- Rust<\/a><\/li>
- Spring dead spot<\/a><\/li>
- FAQ about bermudagrass diseases<\/a><\/li><\/ul> \t\t\t<\/div> \t\t<\/div><\/div>
1. Large patch<\/span><\/h2>
Causal agent: <\/strong>Rhizoctonia solani <\/em>(This pathogen also causes brown patch<\/a> and yellow patch disease).<\/p>
Symptoms: <\/strong>Disease symptoms occur in early spring when grasses green up and conditions are wet. Rough circular patches of brown or yellow grass appear in the yard, ranging from a few inches to several feet in diameter. In some cases, these patches may merge. <\/p>
The patch\u2019s center may turn green as the lawn recovers, creating a donut shape. <\/p>
Upon closer inspection, you may discover rotted, water-soaked leaf sheaths near the soil surface (sheaths are where the leaf blades attach to the stem). <\/p>
Conditions for disease: <\/strong><\/p>
- Prolonged periods of wetness (can be caused by poor drainage, wet weather, overwatering, or watering in the evenings)<\/li>
- High humidity <\/li>
- Applying nitrogen fertilizer to warm-season grasses<\/a> (like bermudagrass) in late summer when it\u2019s too close to autumn<\/li>
- Excessive thatch<\/a><\/li>
- The disease may be more severe if the soil pH is below 6.0<\/li><\/ul>
Treatment:<\/strong> The best way to manage large patch disease in your bermudagrass lawn is to practice good lawn care. The good news is that bermudagrass recovers quickly from large patch thanks to its aggressive growth habits. <\/p>
- Water early in the morning. The best time to water the lawn is before 10 a.m., preferably before 8 a.m. Watering in the evenings is no good because the water clings to the grass overnight and creates a moist environment. <\/li>
- Water less often. Watering infrequently and for long periods encourages a deep root system. It also gives the lawn a chance to dry between waterings. Watering too often and for short periods promotes a shallow root system and doesn\u2019t allow enough time for the turf to dry. <\/li>
- Set the mower to the proper mowing height. Mowing too low can increase large patch\u2019s severity, and mowing too high encourages leaf wetness. The ideal mowing height for common bermudagrass is 1 to 2 inches and \u00bd to 1 \u00bd inches for hybrid varieties.<\/li>
- Relieve soil compaction with core aeration<\/a>. <\/li>
- Remove excessive thatch with a dethatcher<\/a>. <\/li>
- Perform a soil test to determine the soil pH. You may need to apply lime<\/a> to raise the pH between 6.0 and 7.0. <\/li>
- Fungicides<\/a> are more reliable as a preventative treatment than a curative treatment. Apply fungicides to warm-season lawns in fall to prevent symptoms from appearing in spring. According to the Clemson Cooperative Extension, the fungicides azoxystrobin (with propiconazole), pyraclostrobin (with triticonazole), and fluoxastrobin provide excellent large patch management. <\/li><\/ul>
![\"Dollar](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/15489837762_0b9ab08177_c.jpg\")
Dollar Spot | Scot Nelson<\/a> | Flickr | Public domain<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 2. Dollar spot<\/span><\/h2>
Causal agent:<\/strong> <\/em><\/strong>Clarireedia jacksonii <\/em>(formerly Sclerotinia homoeocarpa<\/em>)<\/p>
Symptoms:<\/strong> If your bermudagrass lawn looks like a bermudagrass dalmatian, it might be suffering from dollar spot disease<\/a>. Symptoms appear as tan spots 2 to 6 inches in diameter peppered across the lawn. The spots are typically the size of a silver dollar (surprise, surprise), appearing in late spring or early summer. <\/p>
Infected grass blades have bleached, hourglass-shaped lesions with brownish-purple borders. In the mornings, the turf may exhibit a cobweb-like, silvery coating called mycelium. <\/p>
When dollar spot is severe, the individual spots may merge to create large affected areas. <\/p>
Conditions for disease:<\/strong> Lawns with dry soils and low nitrogen levels are vulnerable to dollar spot. <\/p>
Treatments:<\/strong><\/p>
- Perform a soil test and apply the recommended amount of nitrogen.<\/li>
- Remove thatch buildup.<\/li>
- Mow the grass regularly.<\/li>
- Correct your irrigation regime. Water deeply and less often to promote a robust and healthy root system. <\/li>
- Fungicides for dollar spot control are available. However, they work best as a preventative measure combined with good lawn care. The disease can quickly develop a resistance to fungicides, so it\u2019s good to alternate between products. Fungicides for dollar spot<\/a> include boscalid, myclobutanil, propiconazole, thiophanate-methyl, triadimefon, triticonazole, and vinclozolin.<\/li><\/ul>
![\"Leaf](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/40629271405_4fcb677a75_c_800.jpg\")
Leaf spot | Scot Nelson<\/a> | Flickr | Public domain<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 3. Leaf spot and melting out<\/span><\/h2>
Causal agent<\/strong>: Drechslera poae <\/em>causes leaf spot, and Bipolaris sorokiniana <\/em>causes melting out. <\/p>
Symptoms:<\/strong> Once considered a single disease, leaf spot and melting out<\/a> are two turfgrass diseases that often occur together. <\/p>
Leaf spot symptoms first appear as tiny purplish-black dots on the grass blades. The dots gradually grow into elliptical lesions with purplish-black borders and tan tissue in the center. Some spots may be surrounded by yellowing tissue. <\/p>
The melting out disease is the more serious of the two. The disease progresses down into the crown and roots, rotting away the leaf sheaths, rhizomes, and stolons. <\/p>
Conditions for disease:<\/strong><\/p>
- In bermudagrasses, most damage occurs in fall and spring<\/a> when conditions are cool and wet, especially during long periods of cloud cover. <\/li>
- Excessive thatch<\/li>
- Shaded areas with poor air circulation<\/li>
- Deficient or excessive nitrogen<\/li>
- Low mowing heights<\/li>
- Drought<\/li>
- Long periods of leaf wetness<\/li><\/ul>
Treatments: <\/strong><\/p>
- Perform a soil test and apply the recommended amount of nitrogen during the turf\u2019s growing season. <\/li>
- Practice watering techniques that minimize prolonged leaf wetness. <\/li>
- Trim or prune<\/a> vegetation in shady areas to increase air circulation. <\/li>
- Mow regularly. <\/li>
- Remove excessive thatch. <\/li>
- According to the PennState extension, fungicides<\/a> containing chlorothalonil, iprodione, mancozeb, penthiopyrad, azoxystrobin, or fludioxonil typically provide good leaf spot control. They work best when applied as a preventative measure or in the early stages of the disease. Fungicide applications are unlikely to cure melting out. <\/li><\/ul>
![\"Rust](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/15114615255_62ef3be0bf_c_800.jpg\")
Rust | Scot Nelson<\/a> | Flickr | Public domain<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 4. Rust<\/span><\/h2>
Causal agents:<\/strong> Different fungi cause different rust diseases. The fungus most responsible for rust in bermudagrass, particularly in bermudagrass fields, is Puccinia cynodontis. <\/em><\/p>
Symptoms: <\/strong>If a stroll through your bermudagrass leaves your shoes and socks covered in reddish-brown dust, your turf may have rust. Here\u2019s how you know: <\/p>
- The lawn or field looks bronze from a distance.<\/li>
- Tiny dark brown to orange pustules appear on the grass blades. These pustules rise slightly above the grass blade\u2019s surface. <\/li>
- The pustules burst and release dusty reddish-brown spore masses. <\/li><\/ul>
Conditions for disease: <\/strong><\/p>
- Humidity <\/li>
- Long periods of leaf wetness<\/li>
- The disease thrives in temperatures between 75 degrees and 90 degrees<\/a> Fahrenheit <\/li><\/ul>
Treatments: <\/strong><\/p>
- Maintain proper soil fertility.<\/li>
- Remove excessive thatch.<\/li>
- Practice good irrigation techniques that minimize leaf wetness.<\/li>
- Harvest the grass for hay or graze heavily<\/a>.<\/li>
- Fungicides<\/a> are available for rust control. However, you must read and follow all application instructions. Fungicides may not be suitable if your bermudagrass field has livestock. <\/li><\/ul>
5. Spring dead spot<\/span><\/h2>
Causal agents:<\/strong> Spring dead spot in bermudagrass is caused by one or more species of Ophiosphaerella. <\/em><\/p>
Symptoms: <\/strong>If circular patches of bleached dead grass appear in your spring bermudagrass lawn, it may signify spring dead spot disease. These patches range between 6 inches and several feet in diameter. The fungal disease also rots the roots, rhizomes, and stolons. <\/p>
The fungus itself doesn\u2019t cause the bleached grass, but rather, it makes the grass sensitive to winter damage. So the colder and wetter the winter, the worse the damage appears in spring. <\/p>
The patches can grow in size year after year if left uncontrolled. The patches may develop a donut-shaped pattern as weeds<\/a> or re-established bermudagrass take over the center. <\/p>
Conditions for disease: <\/strong><\/p>
- The fungus is most active when soil temperatures are between 50 degrees and 70 degrees<\/a> Fahrenheit. <\/li>
- High nitrogen levels.<\/li>
- Applying nitrogen fertilizer to warm-season turf too close to the fall season.<\/li>
- According to the Clemson Cooperative Extension, soil pH above 6.2<\/a> has been linked to spring dead spot. <\/li>
- Excessive thatch and soil compaction may reduce the turf\u2019s cold hardiness.<\/li><\/ul>
Treatments: <\/strong><\/p>
- Aerate and dethatch the lawn in summer. Don\u2019t perform these tasks when the disease is active; otherwise, the fungus might spread. <\/li>
- Test soil and create a balanced fertilizer<\/a> regime.<\/li>
- Apply fungicides in the fall, about one month before the lawn goes dormant. Fungicides<\/a> for spring dead spot control include propiconazole, myclobutanil, and thiophanate-methyl. <\/li><\/ul>
FAQ about bermudagrass diseases<\/span><\/h2>
How do I know if my bermudagrass has fungus?<\/strong>When your lawn fades from green to brown, that doesn\u2019t necessarily mean there\u2019s a fungus problem<\/a>. Drought stress, heat stress, or dormancy might be the cause. But if your lawn exhibits the following, then there may be a fungus attacking your lawn:\u00a0
How can I protect my bermudagrass lawn from fungal disease?<\/strong>The best way to protect your bermudagrass lawn<\/a> from fungal disease is to practice good lawn care. Bad watering habits, weak root zones, and unbalanced soil fertility create an attractive environment for fungus to thrive.\u00a0
What if I can\u2019t identify the fungus on my lawn?<\/strong>Some fungal diseases are difficult to identify because they mimic the symptoms of other diseases. But to treat the disease successfully, you need to identify it correctly. Otherwise, your control measures might prove futile.\u00a0
How do I test my soil to treat fungal disease?<\/strong>Several turfgrass diseases must be corrected with improved fertilization and soil amendments. To determine the best fertilizers and amendments for your lawn\u2019s soil, send a soil sample to your local university or cooperative extension office for laboratory testing.\u00a0
Hire a pro and say \u201cBye, bye, fungi\u201d<\/span><\/h2>
You worked hard all week so you could enjoy a relaxing weekend. Are you really going to let a lawn fungus take away those precious hours from you? Instead of sweating in the sun and bending over your bermudagrass, hire a local lawn care professional<\/a> to revive your lawn\u2019s health and green color. While a pro fights off the fungal infestation, enjoy your weekend fungus-free. <\/p>
Main photo credit: Scot Nelson<\/a> | Flicker | Public domain<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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- Apply fungicides in the fall, about one month before the lawn goes dormant. Fungicides<\/a> for spring dead spot control include propiconazole, myclobutanil, and thiophanate-methyl. <\/li><\/ul>
- Fungicides<\/a> are available for rust control. However, you must read and follow all application instructions. Fungicides may not be suitable if your bermudagrass field has livestock. <\/li><\/ul>
- In bermudagrasses, most damage occurs in fall and spring<\/a> when conditions are cool and wet, especially during long periods of cloud cover. <\/li>
- Remove excessive thatch with a dethatcher<\/a>. <\/li>
- Excessive thatch<\/a><\/li>
- Dollar spot<\/a><\/li>