![\"Southern](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/southern-armyworm_800.jpg\")
Armyworms<\/h2> - Signs you have armyworms<\/a><\/li>
- How to get rid of armyworms<\/a><\/li>
- How to prevent armyworms<\/a><\/li> <\/ul>
In large numbers, armyworms<\/a> act in an army-like fashion, \u201cmarching\u201d over a lawn or crop and destroying it in a matter of days. There are many species of armyworms that live throughout the U.S., but the fall armyworm<\/a> is the most likely species to munch on your bermudagrass lawn.<\/p> Fall armyworms come in colors ranging from black or gray to brown and yellowish-green to green. Their most distinguishing feature is an inverted \u201cY\u201d shape on their head and stripes down the length of their body. In their fourth and fifth larval stages (which may last only two to three days<\/a>), they do the most damage to your lawn, eating 80% of their total food intake right before they turn into pupae. <\/p> ![\"armyworm](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/armyworm_damaged-grass_800.jpg\")
uacescomm<\/a> | Flickr | Public domain<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure> Signs you have armyworms<\/span><\/h3> Adult armyworms are moths, but the larval (immature forms) are caterpillars that will eat your lawn. Here are a few signs that you may have armyworms munching on your lawn.<\/p>
- \u201cWindow panes\u201d on the tips of the grass blades: <\/strong>In the early stages of feeding, young caterpillars eat a \u201cwindow pane\u201d on the tips of the grass. Unless you regularly get down on your hands and knees to inspect your lawn, most homeowners won\u2019t notice these \u201cwindow panes\u201d at the tops of their grass blades.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Parts of the lawn may suddenly turn brown <\/strong>or look drought-stressed<\/a>. <\/strong><\/li> <\/ul>
- Rapid defoliation:<\/strong> In large numbers and in the later larval stages, fall armyworms will \u201cmarch\u201d across the lawn, causing a near-total knockdown of your turf in a few days. What looked like drought one day may expand dramatically by the time you get home from work. <\/li> <\/ul>
These extreme infestations are rare and usually follow warmer winters and rainy, cooler weather<\/a> in summer and early fall. Warmer winters mean a greater initial population, while wet summers create an ideal environment for eggs and young larvae, broadening the population even further.<\/p> Smaller populations are more common and won’t cause as much damage; you\u2019ll likely see \u201cchomp\u201d marks on the sides of the grass blades, but you\u2019ll still have a lawn. Cold winters and natural predators usually work together to keep these caterpillars in check.<\/p>
Pro Tip:<\/strong> When you spot browning turf, the best time to scout for fall armyworms in the lawn is in the early evening or early morning.<\/p> How to get rid of armyworms<\/span><\/h3> If you catch these pests when they are still small, try low-impact insecticides<\/strong>, such as Bacillus thuringiensis<\/em> (Bt) or halofenozide. Spinosad is another low-impact option. <\/p> Conventional insecticides<\/strong> may be more effective in extreme cases. Here are a few insecticides that control fall armyworms:<\/p> - Permethrin<\/li>
- Esfenvalerate<\/li>
- Carbaryl<\/li>
- Bifenthrin<\/li>
- Most granular or liquid insecticides will kill armyworms. Even if armyworms aren\u2019t advertised on the front of the package, they are likely listed on the back.<\/li> <\/ul>
Since armyworms may have five or more generations per year in warm climates, repeated applications of insecticides may be necessary. Treatment thresholds are about two to three armyworms per square foot.<\/p>
If you\u2019ve treated the lawn, give the turf time to recover. Bermudagrass<\/a> grows aggressively, which is a plus after an armyworm infestation marches across your lawn. Its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) allow a healthy, actively growing lawn to recover well.<\/p> How to prevent armyworms<\/span><\/h3> Sometimes, there is nothing you can do to prevent armyworms from destroying your lawn, especially in an outbreak year. In most cases, however, there are things you can do to make your lawn less attractive to these pests.<\/p>
- Water well.<\/strong> Water <\/strong>the lawn<\/a> at 1-1 \u00bd inches once per week. (Lawns in sandy soils should be watered at the same amount but broken up into two to three waterings per week.) Applying too much water often leads to weak grass and a shallow root system.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Dial back your fertilizer regime<\/strong> to twice or so per year, and use a slow-release fertilizer<\/a>. Rapid or excessive growth pushes out too much top growth, which is super tasty for young caterpillars.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Toss out the insecticides<\/strong>. Good bugs and natural predators are an essential part of the local ecosystem and keep insect populations in check.<\/li> <\/ul>
Bermudagrass mites<\/span><\/h2> - Signs you have bermudagrass mites<\/a><\/li>
- How to get rid of bermudagrass mites<\/a><\/li>
- How to prevent bermudagrass mites<\/a><\/li> <\/ul>
Unlike armyworms, bermudagrass mites<\/a> suck instead of chomp on your prized bermuda lawn. These white to cream-colored<\/a> or translucent mites (too small to see without magnification) have a worm-like form and suck sap from the grass stems, which stunts the growth of the plant. This turns the grass plants into small, \u201cwitches broom\u201d or fan-shaped specimens instead of the tall, elongated stems of a healthy plant.<\/p> These mites are only found in bermudagrass and can reproduce quickly, every seven to 10 days, and are found throughout the South.<\/p>
Signs you have bermudagrass mites<\/span><\/h3> Unless you have superhero-level eyesight, bermudagrass mites are not visible to the unaided eye. Look for the fan-shaped witches broom grass plants. To be sure, contact your local Cooperative Extension Office and ask if they have a state plant-pest diagnostic clinic that will identify this pest. <\/p>
- If you have dead spots on the lawn, look around the edges of the dead areas for the characteristic \u201cwitches broom\u201d plant shapes. <\/strong><\/li> <\/ul>
- Look under the leaf sheath for signs of eggs.<\/strong> <\/li> <\/ul>
- You may first see damage in late spring. Patches of grass that don\u2019t green up<\/strong> along with the rest of the lawn or are yellow and not growing well may indicate bermudagrass mites. <\/li> <\/ul>
How to get rid of bermudagrass mites<\/span><\/h3> There are no chemicals for home use that kill bermudagrass mites. This actually makes your life a lot simpler because you can focus on standard lawn care instead of buying and properly applying and storing chemicals. Here are a few lawn care practices that help control bermudagrass mites:<\/p>
- Take a soil test:<\/strong> Proper nutrient levels and soil pH help ensure you have 1) a balanced ratio of nutrients in the lawn and 2) that the soil pH is within an acceptable range, which ensures your lawn nutrients will be absorbed by the grass.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Mow bermudagrass on the shorter side<\/strong>, and collect your clippings as long as mites are present. The standard recommendation is to mow bermudagrass at 1-2 inches<\/a>, so aim for the shorter side of that range.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Aerate and dethatch.<\/strong> Aerate<\/a> compacted soil so grass roots grow deep and strong. Dethatch in late spring, but go over uninfected areas first. Then, go back and dethatch<\/a> the affected areas.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Water deeply once per week.<\/strong> Water sandy soils two times per week. This helps create strong roots.<\/li> <\/ul>
How to prevent bermudagrass mites<\/span><\/h3> The best prevention is proper lawn care. Refer to the section above for the best tips on helping your lawn grow strong and resist insect damage.<\/p>
Bermudagrass scale<\/span><\/h2> - Signs you have bermudagrass scale<\/a><\/li>
- How to get rid of bermudagrass scale<\/a><\/li>
- How to prevent bermudagrass scale<\/a><\/li> <\/ul>
When you think of the word \u201cscale,\u201d you might regret that chocolate cake last night. But bermudagrass scale<\/a> has nothing to do with weight \u2014 it\u2019s an insect. These tiny, white insects come in at only 0.06 inches and, to the extent that you can see them, are in the shape of a clam. (You may need a magnifying glass for this.)<\/p> Like bermudagrass mites, bermudagrass scale insects are sucking insects (not chewing) and have a feast drinking fluids from the grass. There are at least two generations per year.<\/p>
Signs you have bermudagrass scale<\/span><\/h3> Bermudagrass scale insects congregate under leaf sheaths, on stolons (above-ground stems), and along the crown (the part of the plant just above soil). If there are lots of these pests, they\u2019ll form a white covering on the crown and stem.<\/p>
- If your lawn is squishy underfoot, you may have too much thatch.<\/strong> If you have too much thatch, conditions are ripe for bermudagrass scale.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Turf looks brown or yellow <\/strong>and under-watered.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Turf is stunted<\/strong> and not growing to its normal size or height.<\/li> <\/ul>
How to get rid of bermudagrass scale<\/span><\/h3> Bermudagrass scale insects love thatch and the shade that it provides. Also, other sources of shade, such as trees or bushes, can provide ideal conditions for this pest.<\/p>
- Get rid of excess thatch<\/strong> in your bermuda lawn. Thatch over one-half inch<\/a> needs to be removed.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Get rid of excess shade.<\/strong> Bermudagrass loves full sun<\/a> and will decline in shaded areas. <\/li> <\/ul>
- Irrigate the lawn properly.<\/strong> If your bermudagrass lawn is suffering from too little water, irrigate the lawn with 1-1 \u00bd inches of water once per week (up to two or three times per week in sandy soils). <\/li> <\/ul>
Bermudagrass lawns that are suffering from drought or too much shade are more likely to have bermudagrass scale insects. In the lawn\u2019s already weakened state, a scale infestation may cause death in parts of the lawn.<\/p>
How to prevent bermudagrass scale<\/span><\/h3> Follow the steps in the section above, namely:<\/p>
- Dethatch<\/strong> when thatch levels rise above one-half inch<\/li> <\/ul>
- Add shade-loving ornamentals <\/strong>or install a lawn alternative<\/a> if you have bermuda that is struggling in shaded areas. <\/li> <\/ul>
![\"Eumargarodes\"](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/rsz_2eumargarodes_laingi-buss.jpg\")
Lyle Buss | Insect Identification Lab<\/a> | University of Florida Entomology & Nematology Department<\/figcaption><\/figure> Ground pearls<\/span><\/h2> - Signs you have ground pearls<\/a><\/li>
- How to get rid of ground pearls<\/a><\/li>
- How to prevent ground pearls<\/a><\/li> <\/ul>
Ground pearls<\/a> are soil-dwelling insects that suck juices from the roots of your bermudagrass lawn. The immature pearls create a covering for themselves, giving them the appearance of little pellets or pearls underneath the soil surface.<\/p> Signs you have ground pearls<\/span><\/h3> - Look for small or irregular circles of yellowing grass in mid-summer.<\/strong> (Mid-summer is when the immature ground pearls or nymphs emerge from their eggs.) These may be particularly noticeable during short, dry periods.<\/li> <\/ul>
- If you want a sure diagnosis, look on the edge between a brown patch and healthy grass. Dig 6-10 inches deep and look for tiny pearls near the grass roots.<\/strong><\/li> <\/ul>
How to get rid of ground pearls<\/span><\/h3> To get rid of ground pearls, don\u2019t reach for a product on a shelf: Chemical and biological controls for ground pearls have not proven effective, so none are recommended.<\/p>
There are, however, things you can do to reduce the damage to your lawn:<\/p>
- Install or overseed with a resistant grass.<\/strong> \u201cCelebration\u201d bermuda is resistant to gnawing from ground pearls, more so in heavy rather than sandy soils.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Take good care of your lawn.<\/strong> You can\u2019t prevent insects from munching on your lawn, but you can strengthen your lawn so that insects that munch don\u2019t do as much damage to the grass. <\/li> <\/ul>
- Mow bermuda lawns at 1-2 inches <\/li>
- Water once every five to 10 days <\/li>
- Fertilize starting in late spring with 1-4 \u00bd pounds of nitrogen fertilizer per 1,000 square feet of lawn<\/li> <\/ul>
How to prevent ground pearls<\/span><\/h3> Besides taking good care of your lawn to minimize potential damage, look at the root systems of plants and sod before you install them in your lawn. Ground pearls can sometimes hitch a ride on the plant roots, so pay attention before you plant.<\/p> ![\"Billbug\"](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/bill-bug_800.jpg\")
Billbug | Fyn Kynd<\/a> | Flickr | CC BY-SA 2.0<\/a> <\/figcaption><\/figure> Hunting billbugs<\/span><\/h2> - Signs you have hunting billbugs<\/a><\/li>
- How to get rid of hunting billbugs<\/a><\/li>
- How to prevent hunting billbugs<\/a><\/li> <\/ul>
Hunting billbugs<\/a> are strange-looking pests that are members of the weevil family and a common pest in bermuda and Zoysia lawns. The adults\u2019 unusual appearance comes from their long \u201cbills\u201d and bent antennae that protrude from their heads. Adults range in color<\/a> from gray or black to red-brown and are one-quarter to one-half inch long. The larvae (immature stage) are white to yellow with a tan to brown head.<\/p> After overwintering, adult females lay their eggs inside the stems of the grass in spring. Once the eggs hatch, the larvae feast on the inside of the stem until the fourth larval stage. At this time, they come out of the stem and feast on the root system. The larvae do most of the significant damage to the grass plant, as adults focus more on the blades.<\/p>
To Note:<\/strong> Billbugs may have up to six generations per year in warmer climates like Florida. Two generations are more common in places like North Carolina.<\/p> Signs you have hunting billbugs<\/span><\/h3> - Grass is discolored<\/strong> (yellow or brown) or thinning<\/li> <\/ul>
- Irrigation does not improve turf discoloration<\/strong><\/li> <\/ul>
- Hollow stems with frass (excrement) inside<\/strong><\/li> <\/ul>
How to get rid of hunting billbugs<\/span><\/h3>
In large numbers, armyworms<\/a> act in an army-like fashion, \u201cmarching\u201d over a lawn or crop and destroying it in a matter of days. There are many species of armyworms that live throughout the U.S., but the fall armyworm<\/a> is the most likely species to munch on your bermudagrass lawn.<\/p> Fall armyworms come in colors ranging from black or gray to brown and yellowish-green to green. Their most distinguishing feature is an inverted \u201cY\u201d shape on their head and stripes down the length of their body. In their fourth and fifth larval stages (which may last only two to three days<\/a>), they do the most damage to your lawn, eating 80% of their total food intake right before they turn into pupae. <\/p> Adult armyworms are moths, but the larval (immature forms) are caterpillars that will eat your lawn. Here are a few signs that you may have armyworms munching on your lawn.<\/p> These extreme infestations are rare and usually follow warmer winters and rainy, cooler weather<\/a> in summer and early fall. Warmer winters mean a greater initial population, while wet summers create an ideal environment for eggs and young larvae, broadening the population even further.<\/p> Smaller populations are more common and won’t cause as much damage; you\u2019ll likely see \u201cchomp\u201d marks on the sides of the grass blades, but you\u2019ll still have a lawn. Cold winters and natural predators usually work together to keep these caterpillars in check.<\/p> Pro Tip:<\/strong> When you spot browning turf, the best time to scout for fall armyworms in the lawn is in the early evening or early morning.<\/p> If you catch these pests when they are still small, try low-impact insecticides<\/strong>, such as Bacillus thuringiensis<\/em> (Bt) or halofenozide. Spinosad is another low-impact option. <\/p> Conventional insecticides<\/strong> may be more effective in extreme cases. Here are a few insecticides that control fall armyworms:<\/p> Since armyworms may have five or more generations per year in warm climates, repeated applications of insecticides may be necessary. Treatment thresholds are about two to three armyworms per square foot.<\/p> If you\u2019ve treated the lawn, give the turf time to recover. Bermudagrass<\/a> grows aggressively, which is a plus after an armyworm infestation marches across your lawn. Its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) allow a healthy, actively growing lawn to recover well.<\/p> Sometimes, there is nothing you can do to prevent armyworms from destroying your lawn, especially in an outbreak year. In most cases, however, there are things you can do to make your lawn less attractive to these pests.<\/p> Unlike armyworms, bermudagrass mites<\/a> suck instead of chomp on your prized bermuda lawn. These white to cream-colored<\/a> or translucent mites (too small to see without magnification) have a worm-like form and suck sap from the grass stems, which stunts the growth of the plant. This turns the grass plants into small, \u201cwitches broom\u201d or fan-shaped specimens instead of the tall, elongated stems of a healthy plant.<\/p> These mites are only found in bermudagrass and can reproduce quickly, every seven to 10 days, and are found throughout the South.<\/p> Unless you have superhero-level eyesight, bermudagrass mites are not visible to the unaided eye. Look for the fan-shaped witches broom grass plants. To be sure, contact your local Cooperative Extension Office and ask if they have a state plant-pest diagnostic clinic that will identify this pest. <\/p> There are no chemicals for home use that kill bermudagrass mites. This actually makes your life a lot simpler because you can focus on standard lawn care instead of buying and properly applying and storing chemicals. Here are a few lawn care practices that help control bermudagrass mites:<\/p> The best prevention is proper lawn care. Refer to the section above for the best tips on helping your lawn grow strong and resist insect damage.<\/p> When you think of the word \u201cscale,\u201d you might regret that chocolate cake last night. But bermudagrass scale<\/a> has nothing to do with weight \u2014 it\u2019s an insect. These tiny, white insects come in at only 0.06 inches and, to the extent that you can see them, are in the shape of a clam. (You may need a magnifying glass for this.)<\/p> Like bermudagrass mites, bermudagrass scale insects are sucking insects (not chewing) and have a feast drinking fluids from the grass. There are at least two generations per year.<\/p> Bermudagrass scale insects congregate under leaf sheaths, on stolons (above-ground stems), and along the crown (the part of the plant just above soil). If there are lots of these pests, they\u2019ll form a white covering on the crown and stem.<\/p> Bermudagrass scale insects love thatch and the shade that it provides. Also, other sources of shade, such as trees or bushes, can provide ideal conditions for this pest.<\/p> Bermudagrass lawns that are suffering from drought or too much shade are more likely to have bermudagrass scale insects. In the lawn\u2019s already weakened state, a scale infestation may cause death in parts of the lawn.<\/p> Follow the steps in the section above, namely:<\/p> Ground pearls<\/a> are soil-dwelling insects that suck juices from the roots of your bermudagrass lawn. The immature pearls create a covering for themselves, giving them the appearance of little pellets or pearls underneath the soil surface.<\/p> To get rid of ground pearls, don\u2019t reach for a product on a shelf: Chemical and biological controls for ground pearls have not proven effective, so none are recommended.<\/p> There are, however, things you can do to reduce the damage to your lawn:<\/p> Besides taking good care of your lawn to minimize potential damage, look at the root systems of plants and sod before you install them in your lawn. Ground pearls can sometimes hitch a ride on the plant roots, so pay attention before you plant.<\/p> Hunting billbugs<\/a> are strange-looking pests that are members of the weevil family and a common pest in bermuda and Zoysia lawns. The adults\u2019 unusual appearance comes from their long \u201cbills\u201d and bent antennae that protrude from their heads. Adults range in color<\/a> from gray or black to red-brown and are one-quarter to one-half inch long. The larvae (immature stage) are white to yellow with a tan to brown head.<\/p> After overwintering, adult females lay their eggs inside the stems of the grass in spring. Once the eggs hatch, the larvae feast on the inside of the stem until the fourth larval stage. At this time, they come out of the stem and feast on the root system. The larvae do most of the significant damage to the grass plant, as adults focus more on the blades.<\/p> To Note:<\/strong> Billbugs may have up to six generations per year in warmer climates like Florida. Two generations are more common in places like North Carolina.<\/p> Signs you have armyworms<\/span><\/h3>
How to get rid of armyworms<\/span><\/h3>
How to prevent armyworms<\/span><\/h3>
Bermudagrass mites<\/span><\/h2>
Signs you have bermudagrass mites<\/span><\/h3>
How to get rid of bermudagrass mites<\/span><\/h3>
How to prevent bermudagrass mites<\/span><\/h3>
Bermudagrass scale<\/span><\/h2>
Signs you have bermudagrass scale<\/span><\/h3>
How to get rid of bermudagrass scale<\/span><\/h3>
How to prevent bermudagrass scale<\/span><\/h3>
Ground pearls<\/span><\/h2>
Signs you have ground pearls<\/span><\/h3>
How to get rid of ground pearls<\/span><\/h3>
How to prevent ground pearls<\/span><\/h3>
Hunting billbugs<\/span><\/h2>
Signs you have hunting billbugs<\/span><\/h3>
How to get rid of hunting billbugs<\/span><\/h3>