It does take some muscle power to put the lawn to bed for winter, but the good news is, you\u2019ll have a head start on spring yard care.<\/p>
1. Water the grass<\/span><\/h2> ![\"small](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/rsz_68543986_c4f4cc8e0d_c.jpg\")
Allan Lee | Flickr<\/a> | CC BY 2.0<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> Your Rhode Island lawn needs watering throughout the fall, just like in spring and summer. Cool-season grasses like fescues, Kentucky bluegrass (KBG), and ryegrass grow thicker during autumn as their roots spread into the soil.<\/p>
The amount of rain varies, but Rhode Island\u2019s average October rainfall<\/a> is just under 4 inches. Water your lawn during dry periods \u2013 about an inch per week is standard. Be careful not to drown roots or create puddles in areas where the soil isn\u2019t draining quickly.<\/p> 2. Rake leaves<\/span><\/h2> Leaf raking seems like a tedious and useless chore, but it\u2019s vital to making sure your grass stays strong and healthy. Your Rhode Island or Massachusetts lawn is most likely growing KBG, fine fescues, perennial ryegrass, or a combination of all three. Thick piles of dead leaves will suffocate the grass.<\/p>
Too many leaves:<\/p>
- Keep water from reaching plant roots<\/li>
- Provide a home for pests<\/li>
- Block sunlight (and preventing photosynthesis)<\/li>
- Encourage fungi and snow mold<\/li><\/ul>
Rake the grass at least once a week during fall, more often if you want the exercise. <\/p>
3. Dethatch<\/span><\/h2> ![\"thatch](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/rsz_30639982878_46cbcf19d8_c.jpg\")
Matthew Paul Argall | Flickr<\/a> | CC BY 2.0<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> Thatch<\/a> is an intermingling organic layer of dead and living stems, roots, and shoots that develops on top of the soil but underneath healthy green vegetation. Thatch occurs when sod produces organic matter faster than it can break down. Crowns, fibers of vascular tissues, and stem nodes make up the bulk of the matter.<\/p> Dethatching during autumn\u2019s active yard growth helps grass roots stay strong. (You can thatch during spring, too). Dethatching isn\u2019t (necessarily) a yearly thing \u2013 only when the mats are thicker than a \u00bd inch.<\/p>
Using a special rake with vertical tines, dethatching (also called verticutting<\/a>) scrapes up the debris between soil and grass. <\/p> 4. Aerate<\/span><\/h2> Similar to removing a cork from a wine bottle to let the wine \u201cbreathe,\u201d aerating grass turf loosens the soil to improve air and water circulation. Core aerators of various sizes punch holes in compacted soil (and remove the cores), allowing water and nutrients to reach grass roots. You can do this yourself with rented equipment or a small hand-held aerator, but large yards are best left to lawn care professionals. Unless the lawn has a lot of heavy foot traffic, you won\u2019t need to aerate every year. <\/p>
Pro Tip:<\/strong> Dethatch before aerating so the puncher doesn\u2019t hit a vegetative carpet before getting to the soil. You want to make sure you have good access to the soil to loosen it so the water and nutrients can penetrate it.<\/p> 5. Overseed for a thicker lawn<\/span><\/h2> ![\"lush,](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/rsz_grass-375586_1280.jpg\")
Hans Braxmeier | Pixabay<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> Overseeding is the term for adding new grass seeds to your established lawn, mainly in dead or thin patchy areas. Planting grass seed in fall keeps everything cool for growth in the spring. Overseed with cool-season blends about 45 days before the first fall frost in Rhode Island<\/a>, which is typically around the third week in October.<\/p> 6. Test the soil<\/span><\/h2> Soil testing<\/a> indicates what \u2013 if any \u2013 kind of fertilizer and supplements your grass needs. On the pH scale, Rhode Island lawn soils usually test between 6.0 and 7.0. Test once a year (either fall or spring) to determine if the soil needs a boost of potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen, or something else.<\/p> 7. Fertilize<\/span><\/h2> Analyze before you fertilize. Before adding any type of nutrients to the lawn, find out what it needs. Once you have got that pH test squared away, you can hit the garden store and then take out that broadcast spreader. Fertilize a cool-season lawn in early September, taking care to reduce stormwater pollution<\/a> (to reduce pollution risk, do not apply fertilizer after the second week of October). The proper application for the products needed will be noted on the packaging. <\/p> 8. Control weeds<\/span><\/h2> ![\"white](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/rsz_14442094141_e9af5f15c6_c.jpg\")
NY State IPM Program at Cornell University | Flickr<\/a> | CC BY 2.0<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> Weeds in lawn grass are unavoidable, but they are (mostly) controllable. Pre-emergent herbicides<\/strong> are helpful when applied between August and November because they kill germinating seeds. In Rhode Island and its neighboring section of Massachusetts, pre-emergent weed killers may help prevent unwanted and invasive plants like common reed, garlic mustard, horseweed, moneywort, crabgrass, and those dreaded yellow dandelions. Post-emergent herbicides<\/strong> are often needed in summer and fall for weeds that have already sprouted. <\/p> 9. Perform one last mow of the season <\/span><\/h2> You have been looking forward to it all summer \u2013 that last cut of the season. Before tearing down the mower for its twice-yearly maintenance session, run it over the lawn. Depending on your grass type, KBG, for example, cut the grass so it’s about 2 to 3 inches high. Closely trimmed lawns invited frost damage, mold, and disease.<\/p>
10. Prepare gardens for winter<\/span><\/h2> ![\"person](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/rsz_work-in-the-garden-2432111_1280.jpg\")
summa | Pixabay<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> Having prolific summer gardens start with a little attention the previous fall. Put those gardens to bed before the ground freezes.<\/p>
Remove \u201cspent\u201d vegetation, weeds, and other debris. Rake and fine-till the soil. Repeat. And repeat again until the dirt is broken up, soft, and weed-free. Tilling gardens in fall helps you cut down on muscle power needed for spring tilling. <\/p>
For flower and shrubbery beds, prune perennials as needed, remove weeds, and add straw or mulch over the soil to protect roots from harsh winter weather.<\/p>
When landscaping your Rhode Island home, consider using native plants<\/a> like mountain holly, red columbine, marsh blue violets, and anemone. Besides feeding birds and other wildlife, native plants don\u2019t need as much water, are generally disease-resistant, help control erosion, and promote biodiversity.<\/p> Get busy before it gets too cold!<\/h2>
Autumn lawn care chores await! Before hunkering down in front of a winter fireplace, it is time to get busy. Prepping the yard in fall cuts back on spring work and gives you something to look forward to after shoveling snow all winter. Yes, it\u2019s a big list \u2026 don\u2019t want to DIY? Hire a lawn care professional in Rhode Island.<\/a><\/p>
Your Rhode Island lawn needs watering throughout the fall, just like in spring and summer. Cool-season grasses like fescues, Kentucky bluegrass (KBG), and ryegrass grow thicker during autumn as their roots spread into the soil.<\/p>
The amount of rain varies, but Rhode Island\u2019s average October rainfall<\/a> is just under 4 inches. Water your lawn during dry periods \u2013 about an inch per week is standard. Be careful not to drown roots or create puddles in areas where the soil isn\u2019t draining quickly.<\/p> Leaf raking seems like a tedious and useless chore, but it\u2019s vital to making sure your grass stays strong and healthy. Your Rhode Island or Massachusetts lawn is most likely growing KBG, fine fescues, perennial ryegrass, or a combination of all three. Thick piles of dead leaves will suffocate the grass.<\/p> Too many leaves:<\/p> Rake the grass at least once a week during fall, more often if you want the exercise. <\/p> Thatch<\/a> is an intermingling organic layer of dead and living stems, roots, and shoots that develops on top of the soil but underneath healthy green vegetation. Thatch occurs when sod produces organic matter faster than it can break down. Crowns, fibers of vascular tissues, and stem nodes make up the bulk of the matter.<\/p> Dethatching during autumn\u2019s active yard growth helps grass roots stay strong. (You can thatch during spring, too). Dethatching isn\u2019t (necessarily) a yearly thing \u2013 only when the mats are thicker than a \u00bd inch.<\/p> Using a special rake with vertical tines, dethatching (also called verticutting<\/a>) scrapes up the debris between soil and grass. <\/p> Similar to removing a cork from a wine bottle to let the wine \u201cbreathe,\u201d aerating grass turf loosens the soil to improve air and water circulation. Core aerators of various sizes punch holes in compacted soil (and remove the cores), allowing water and nutrients to reach grass roots. You can do this yourself with rented equipment or a small hand-held aerator, but large yards are best left to lawn care professionals. Unless the lawn has a lot of heavy foot traffic, you won\u2019t need to aerate every year. <\/p> Pro Tip:<\/strong> Dethatch before aerating so the puncher doesn\u2019t hit a vegetative carpet before getting to the soil. You want to make sure you have good access to the soil to loosen it so the water and nutrients can penetrate it.<\/p> Overseeding is the term for adding new grass seeds to your established lawn, mainly in dead or thin patchy areas. Planting grass seed in fall keeps everything cool for growth in the spring. Overseed with cool-season blends about 45 days before the first fall frost in Rhode Island<\/a>, which is typically around the third week in October.<\/p> Soil testing<\/a> indicates what \u2013 if any \u2013 kind of fertilizer and supplements your grass needs. On the pH scale, Rhode Island lawn soils usually test between 6.0 and 7.0. Test once a year (either fall or spring) to determine if the soil needs a boost of potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen, or something else.<\/p> Analyze before you fertilize. Before adding any type of nutrients to the lawn, find out what it needs. Once you have got that pH test squared away, you can hit the garden store and then take out that broadcast spreader. Fertilize a cool-season lawn in early September, taking care to reduce stormwater pollution<\/a> (to reduce pollution risk, do not apply fertilizer after the second week of October). The proper application for the products needed will be noted on the packaging. <\/p> Weeds in lawn grass are unavoidable, but they are (mostly) controllable. Pre-emergent herbicides<\/strong> are helpful when applied between August and November because they kill germinating seeds. In Rhode Island and its neighboring section of Massachusetts, pre-emergent weed killers may help prevent unwanted and invasive plants like common reed, garlic mustard, horseweed, moneywort, crabgrass, and those dreaded yellow dandelions. Post-emergent herbicides<\/strong> are often needed in summer and fall for weeds that have already sprouted. <\/p> You have been looking forward to it all summer \u2013 that last cut of the season. Before tearing down the mower for its twice-yearly maintenance session, run it over the lawn. Depending on your grass type, KBG, for example, cut the grass so it’s about 2 to 3 inches high. Closely trimmed lawns invited frost damage, mold, and disease.<\/p> Having prolific summer gardens start with a little attention the previous fall. Put those gardens to bed before the ground freezes.<\/p> Remove \u201cspent\u201d vegetation, weeds, and other debris. Rake and fine-till the soil. Repeat. And repeat again until the dirt is broken up, soft, and weed-free. Tilling gardens in fall helps you cut down on muscle power needed for spring tilling. <\/p> For flower and shrubbery beds, prune perennials as needed, remove weeds, and add straw or mulch over the soil to protect roots from harsh winter weather.<\/p> When landscaping your Rhode Island home, consider using native plants<\/a> like mountain holly, red columbine, marsh blue violets, and anemone. Besides feeding birds and other wildlife, native plants don\u2019t need as much water, are generally disease-resistant, help control erosion, and promote biodiversity.<\/p> Autumn lawn care chores await! Before hunkering down in front of a winter fireplace, it is time to get busy. Prepping the yard in fall cuts back on spring work and gives you something to look forward to after shoveling snow all winter. Yes, it\u2019s a big list \u2026 don\u2019t want to DIY? Hire a lawn care professional in Rhode Island.<\/a><\/p> 2. Rake leaves<\/span><\/h2>
3. Dethatch<\/span><\/h2>
4. Aerate<\/span><\/h2>
5. Overseed for a thicker lawn<\/span><\/h2>
6. Test the soil<\/span><\/h2>
7. Fertilize<\/span><\/h2>
8. Control weeds<\/span><\/h2>
9. Perform one last mow of the season <\/span><\/h2>
10. Prepare gardens for winter<\/span><\/h2>
Get busy before it gets too cold!<\/h2>