If you prefer the smell of freshly tilled earth trailing through your fingertips in early spring, a no-till garden may seem unattractive at best or anathema at worst.<\/p>
If you\u2019re unsure what all the hype is about, we\u2019ll dig deep to discover what no-till gardening is and why you may want to consider this gardening method. <\/p>
For home gardeners, tillage means using a tiller or other tool (shovel, spade, etc.) to dig and turn over the soil. Large-scale farmers use a moldboard plow or disk plow to till up to 12 inches deep into the soil. <\/p>
The goal of tillage is to reduce compaction, aerate the soil, and get rid of weeds. Why? So the root system of new plants will have a friable, aerated<\/a> soil bed in which to grow. Research has shown, however, that tillage may not achieve these goals. <\/p> Tilling the ground breaks apart the soil structure and makes it more prone to erosion. The tilled soil is now likely to become compacted by rain and by the heavy equipment that does the tilling, reducing aeration in the soil. In addition, fungal webs<\/a> in the soil are destroyed when the soil is tilled. Untilled ground leaves these networks intact. <\/p> You may wonder whether fertilizers or manure will be as effective if they are not tilled into the ground. Research has shown that synthetic and organic fertilizers<\/a> are at least as effective<\/a> in no-till operations as in tilled ones.<\/p> Everyone wants a healthy garden with healthy soil. Proponents of no-till say that leaving the soil undisturbed is key to achieving this goal. Here are a few of the main components of no-till gardening:<\/p> No-till is only one way to improve soil health, but it is a popular starting point for home gardeners who want rich, healthy soil and plants. <\/p> This method works for raised bed gardens or beds without a frame around them.<\/p> Mow<\/strong> the area where the new garden area will be. Leave the clippings<\/a><\/strong> on the ground.<\/p> Lay down cardboard<\/strong> or about six sheets of newspaper<\/strong> to cover the area.<\/p> Douse the cardboard<\/a> or newspaper with water<\/strong> to speed decomposition.<\/p> Cover the paper or cardboard with a thick layer of composted manure, compost, or worm compost<\/strong> up to 6 inches deep<\/a>.<\/p> Cover the layer of compost<\/a> with a layer of mulch<\/strong>. Use a few inches of wood chips, grass clippings, or chopped leaves<\/a>. (Don\u2019t mix; layer it on top of the compost.)<\/p> You\u2019re done!<\/p> It is ideal to start your no-till garden in the fall so the materials have time to decompose a little before your first planting. The following spring, you may want to use small transplants instead of seeds in your new no-till garden bed. If the wood chip layer is still too thick, add a little more compost or topsoil in your planting holes.<\/p> Over time, the wood chips and other mulches will break down. (The greater the biological activity<\/a> in the soil, the faster this will happen.) As this organic matter decays, it releases nutrients and adds organic matter to the soil. <\/p> To add even more organic matter to your soil in the fall, cut off your summer plants<\/a> at the level of the soil. Remove the above-ground matter, but leave the plant roots in the ground. As the roots decay, they add more organic matter to your garden. If any roots are left in the spring, you can remove these before you plant.<\/p> Pro Tip:<\/strong> Make sure the materials (compost and mulches) are free from weed seeds. Also, leave enough room in your walkways for the lawn mower<\/a>.<\/p> Since one of the key components of no-till is keeping the soil surface covered, minimize bare soil year-round. How? Add a new layer of mulch as needed to maintain the height of the row (grass clippings, shredded leaves, compost, wood chips, etc.). <\/p> In addition to mulching the rows, add a cover crop<\/a> at least once a year. Cover crops reduce erosion, add nutrients (like nitrogen) to the soil, and help suppress weeds. Fall is the perfect time to add a cover crop if your beds lie fallow. If you use the beds to plant fall veggies, you can sow cover crops in between rows.<\/p> \u2713 Controls weeds \u2717 There is an initial outlay for the compost, wood chips, etc. You may have heard no-till practices called by other names. Each one may be slightly different in its execution, but the idea is the same. Many organic gardeners (and larger-scale organic farmers) use some form of no-till or low-till gardening. Soil health is a foundational principle for most organic farms, so a method like no-till that decreases erosion, increases organic matter, and improves fertility is ideal.\u00a0 <\/p> <\/div> A recent 30-year study shows that, over time, no-till farmers can expect increased yields<\/a> from their fields. As such, many conventional farmers<\/a> and gardeners use these techniques as well.\u00a0 <\/p> <\/div> <\/div> While you\u2019re busy working on your new no-till garden plot, contact one of our <\/em>local lawn care experts<\/em><\/a> to take mowing off your outdoor to-do list.<\/em><\/p> The no-till solution<\/span><\/h2>
Key components of no-till gardening:<\/span><\/h3>
Five steps to make a no-till garden<\/span><\/h2>
Step 1: Mow<\/span><\/h3>
Step 2: Cover<\/span><\/h3>
Step 3: Water<\/span><\/h3>
Step 4: Compost<\/span><\/h3>
Step 5: Mulch<\/span><\/h3>
How to maintain a no-till garden<\/span><\/h2>
Advantages of a no-till garden<\/span><\/h2>
\u2713 No gas or oil used for mechanical tillers
\u2713 Saves labor (no digging or tilling)
\u2713 Saves time
\u2713 Saves physical wear and tear \u2014 less work
\u2713 Intact fungal webs<\/a> and earthworm tunnels<\/a>
\u2713 Limits soil erosion<\/a>
\u2713 Cover crops and mulch return organic material to the soil
\u2713 Improves soil fertility
\u2713 Increases moisture retention\/reduces evaporation<\/p> Disadvantages of a no-till garden<\/span><\/h2>
\u2717 May have to pay for materials if you make raised beds<\/p> FAQ about no-till gardening<\/span><\/h2>