Planting annuals in spring is like preparing the grounds for a carnival. Once your annuals are in the soil, expect a gorgeous summer show, complete with vibrant flowers that rival the purples, greens, and yellows of a jester hat. With these tips for planting annual plants, your garden will start blooming before you can say, \u201cAlakazam!\u201d<\/p>
Knowing how and when to plant annuals is crucial for their success. We\u2019ll walk you through how to prepare a healthy garden bed and plant your seeds or seedlings for blossoms all season long.<\/p>
Annuals <\/strong>are flowering plants that complete their whole life cycle in one year, growing from seed in spring, blooming in summer, and dispersing seeds before dying in fall. Unlike slow-growing perennials (plants that grow for multiple years), annuals put the \u201cpetal\u201d to the metal to give your landscape immediate color from late spring until fall. <\/p> There are two methods<\/strong> of growing annuals: Directly sowing seeds<\/strong> into your garden or planting young plants<\/strong> that you started indoors or purchased from a garden center. First, we\u2019ll walk through the simpler but less-effective process of directly sowing seeds. Then, we\u2019ll take you through the slightly more complex steps of planting seedlings.<\/p> Annuals can be picky when it comes to soil quality and garden conditions, so start planning and improving your garden in the fall before spring planting.<\/p> Order a soil test <\/strong>from your local cooperative extension<\/a> to determine what soil amendments<\/a> your garden needs to support healthy plants. Ordering the test in fall gives you time to get the results and amend your soil either in late fall or early spring before planting. <\/p> Spread a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic matter <\/strong>(like compost) over the soil to improve nutrient levels and drainage. Use a spade to work the organic matter into the soil to a depth of about 1 foot. Spreading compost in fall gives compost time to work its soil magic so plant roots get a rich, nutritious treat in spring.<\/p> If you are planting seedlings, arrange plants<\/strong> (still in their pots) in groups of threes around your garden. Grouping in threes gives your plants an irregular clustered shape, which looks more natural than plants set up in a line, and ensures a denser, fuller look than individual plants. <\/p> Consider each plant\u2019s sunlight requirements<\/strong> (like full sun, partial shade, or dappled shade) when deciding where plants should grow. Also, make a note of the mature size<\/strong> of each plant to provide adequate spacing. <\/p> Plant your annuals on a cloudy day or in the evening<\/strong> as the sun is setting to protect seeds and tender new plants from sun stress. If you only have one day to plant and it happens to be sunny, shade the area with an upright piece of cardboard or plant flat. <\/p> If you are growing tender annuals<\/a>, wait until the threat of frost has passed<\/strong> before planting them outdoors in spring. <\/p> Moisten the garden bed<\/strong> with a mist of water prior to planting.<\/p> Sowing annuals from seed is the simplest process, but it also has the lowest success rate. If it\u2019s too late to start annuals indoors and you don\u2019t want to spend the extra dough on store-bought plants, direct seeding is the way to go.<\/p> 1. Spread organic or slow-release fertilizer<\/strong> over the area where you plan to plant your annuals. Use 1 pound of fertilizer per 100 square feet.<\/p> 2. Follow the planting instructions<\/strong> on the back of your seed packet. Sow seeds in rows at the correct depth and spacing, or broadcast seeds by scattering them with a sweeping, even hand motion, or using a hand-crank spreader<\/a>.<\/p> 3. Firm the soil<\/strong> with the back of a rake.<\/p> 4. Gently soak the seeds<\/strong> with a fine spray of water. Keep the soil moist for the first seven to 10 days to ensure successful germination. <\/p> Sure, digging holes to transplant seedlings takes more time than broadcasting seeds everywhere \u2014 but transplants give you immediate greenery without the wait, and they\u2019re more likely to survive the first few weeks for healthy growth and loads of blossoms through the season. Just be sure to harden off indoor-grown seedlings<\/a> at least two weeks before you plant them so they\u2019re acclimated to the outdoors.<\/p> 1. Water<\/strong> the plants<\/strong> in their containers thoroughly. Let the water drain for 5 to 10 minutes before removing the plants from their containers. <\/p> 2. Gently remove<\/strong> plants from their containers.<\/strong> Do NOT grab the stem and attempt to pull the plant out of its pot, as this can cause stem breakage. Instead \u2026<\/p> 3. Untangle roots<\/strong> that have become knotted, compacted, or have grown in a circle at the bottom of the container. Gently break up the root ball with your fingers or a knife. Loosening and teasing out roots won\u2019t hurt the plant and will encourage roots to grow into new soil. <\/p> 4. Dig a hole<\/strong> with your trowel at the same level or slightly deeper than the soil in the pot or tray. In general, holes should be spaced at a distance of one-half of the plant\u2019s mature height.<\/p> 5. Plant your annual. <\/strong>Place your plant in the hole and refill the space with garden soil. Firm the soil with the back of your trowel or your fingers, creating a small moat around the plant\u2019s stem to ensure water filters down to the roots. <\/p> Pro Tip: <\/strong>If you\u2019re planting an army of annuals, try the pro-approved \u201cstab-and-plant\u201d technique. Hold the trowel with the concave (inward-curving) side facing you. Stab the soil with the trowel and pull it toward you to create a hole. Then, drop the plant into the hole and firm the space around it with soil.<\/p> 6. Water thoroughly <\/strong>around the plant to eliminate air pockets and acclimate your plant to its new environment.<\/p> 7. Spread slow-release fertilizer<\/strong>. A slow-release granular fertilizer<\/a> like Osmocote or organic fertilizer<\/a> like fish and seaweed emulsion will start your annuals strong. <\/p> 8. Add mulch<\/strong>. To protect plant roots, prevent weeds, and retain soil moisture, spread a layer of organic mulch<\/a> like decomposing leaves or grass clippings around your annuals. <\/p> The time of year you plant your annuals depends on their hardiness status<\/strong>. Annuals fall into three major hardiness categories: <\/p> Most annuals should be planted in spring<\/strong>, while hardy annuals may be planted in fall for winter appeal. We\u2019ll give you an overview of planting schedules, but the right planting time for each annual varies based on where you live.<\/p> Tender annuals<\/strong> (aka summer annuals) love the heat and can\u2019t stand the cold. They germinate in late spring, bloom in summer, and die when the first frost arrives. These warm-season, heat-resistant plants are fantastic for hot southern climates and have a very low tolerance for cooler fall temperatures.<\/p> Plant tender annuals in spring, two to three weeks after the final frost date<\/a><\/strong>. Wait for the soil and air to warm up before planting these temperature-sensitive species, as planting too early can cause plants to stop growing and rot.<\/p> For an early start, sow seeds indoors four to six weeks before the final spring frost date. Remember to harden off your plants before transplanting them into your garden. <\/p> Tender annuals include:<\/strong><\/p> * A tender perennial in USDA zones 10 and 11, but grows outside of these zones as an annual.<\/p> Also known as winter annuals, hardy annuals<\/strong> are the most cold-tolerant annuals, giving your lawn a pop of color in winter, spring, and early summer. In warmer climates, they decline and die during the peak heat of summer. <\/p> Plant hardy annuals in fall<\/strong>, six weeks before your area\u2019s first fall frost date, or early spring<\/strong>, four weeks before your area\u2019s final spring frost date.<\/p> For an early spring start, sow seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the final spring frost date and plant them in your garden about a month later, after they have been hardened off.<\/p> Hardy annuals include: <\/strong><\/p> Half-hardy annuals<\/strong> are a happy medium between tender and hardy annuals. They\u2019re more cold-tolerant than tender annuals and more heat-tolerant than hardy annuals. Half-hardy annuals can withstand a light frost but are vulnerable to cold damage and won\u2019t last through winter.<\/p> Plant half-hardy annuals two weeks before your area\u2019s final spring frost<\/strong> date. If you\u2019re starting your seeds indoors, sow seeds six to eight weeks before the last spring frost date.<\/p> Half-hardy annuals include:<\/strong><\/p> If perennials last for years while annuals only last one season, why bother planting annuals? There are many benefits of annuals: <\/p> \u2713 Longer blooming season than perennials<\/strong><\/p> Annuals typically bloom from spring until the first frost of fall, while perennials bloom for a shorter window (generally two to four weeks) of the growing season. <\/p> \u2713 Many color and pattern choices<\/strong><\/p> Annuals are often more vibrantly colored than perennials and come in an incredible assortment of sizes and textures. <\/p> \u2713 Cover bare patches<\/strong><\/p> When a harsh winter kills off a bunch of once-healthy branches, you can plant annuals to fill in the bare area. That way, your lawn won\u2019t have any awkward gaps in spring and your damaged perennials will have time to recover.<\/p> \u2713 Let you experiment with your landscape aesthetic<\/strong><\/p> Not sure if you want tall red and orange flowers by your mailbox, or if you\u2019d prefer low-growing cool blue flowers? Plant annuals and see how you feel in a few months. You can always change the color scheme next year, whereas with perennials, you\u2019re locked in with a color scheme for at least three years (unless you transplant the perennial, which can be a hassle).<\/p> \u2713 Less expensive than perennials<\/strong><\/p> Annual seeds and seedlings are cheaper than perennials. A package of 12 annual zinnias costs $12 ($1 per plant), whereas a perennial flower, like purple coneflower, costs about $7 per small plant. However, the cost of annuals versus perennials may even out because you have to plant annuals every year. <\/p> \u2713 Some annuals self-seed for next year<\/strong><\/p> Many annuals like cleome, cosmos, poppies, snapdragons, and sweet alyssum successfully reseed themselves at the end of the season. They produce seed pods and release hundreds to thousands of tiny seeds that start growing the next spring. If you\u2019re content with a wilder, more meadowy look, you can hold off on reseeding and enjoy fresh spring growth without the work.<\/p> \u201cHardening off\u201d is the two-week process of acclimating your indoor-grown plants to outdoor conditions so they aren\u2019t shocked by wind, sun exposure, temperature fluctuations, and\u00a0storms. Deadheading<\/strong> is the process of cutting flowers as they fade to redirect the plant\u2019s energy from producing seed pods to growing fresh blossoms. It\u2019s a healthy gardening practice used for both annuals and perennials. During the blooming season, you\u2019ll need to cut your annuals\u2019 spent flowers daily or every other day. <\/p> <\/div> No, hold off on planting when the soil is soaking wet. Slightly moist soil is ideal for planting, but wet soil develops lumps and is prone to compaction, which limits root growth and doesn\u2019t allow the necessary air, water, and nutrients to penetrate.\u00a0 Most annuals need to be watered once a day<\/strong> for healthy, dense growth. Do not wait for annuals to wilt before watering them. If you live in a drought-prone region or simply want to cut your water bill<\/a>, you can plant drought-tolerant annuals instead. These hardy growers only require one watering per week. Fertilize your annuals with a fast-release liquid fertilizer once a week<\/a>. Look for a fertilizer labeled \u201ccomplete\u201d or \u201c20-20-20,\u201d which indicates that it contains a 1:1:1 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (the three essential elements for plant health). Planting annuals isn\u2019t a magic trick reserved for the professionals. With some garden bed preparation, a trowel, and a free afternoon, you can craft a beautiful annual flower bed that will make the neighbors cry, \u201cBravo!\u201d<\/p> Not all lawn work is as enjoyable as designing a cheerful, color-coordinated flower garden. If mowing and yard cleanup aren’t your idea of a carnival ride, you can call a team of local lawn care pros<\/a> to perform yard acrobatics for a verdant, healthy green space. <\/p> Before planting annuals<\/span><\/h2>
Fall preparation tips<\/span><\/h3>
Spring preparation tips<\/span><\/h3>
The direct seeding method<\/span><\/h2>
The transplanting method<\/span><\/h2>
When to plant annuals<\/span><\/h2>
Tender annuals<\/span><\/h3>
Hardy annuals<\/span><\/h3>
Half-hardy annuals<\/span><\/h3>
Benefits of planting annuals<\/span><\/h2>
FAQ about planting annuals<\/span><\/h2>
Announce the spring with annuals<\/span><\/h2>