- 1. Prepare your lawn equipment<\/a><\/li>
- 2. Clean up winter debris<\/a><\/li>
- 3. Treat lawn diseases\u00a0<\/a><\/li>
- 4. Get rid of weeds<\/a><\/li>
- 5. Apply pest control<\/a><\/li>
- 6. Test your soil<\/a><\/li>
- 7. Fertilize, if needed<\/a><\/li>
- 8. Check sprinklers and start watering<\/a><\/li>
- 9. Know when to mow<\/a><\/li>
- 10. Hold off on dethatching, aeration, and overseeding<\/a><\/li><\/ul> \t\t\t<\/div> \t\t<\/div><\/div>
1. Prepare your lawn equipment<\/span><\/h2>
![\"sharpening](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/AdobeStock_598016478-2.jpeg\")
Sharpening mower blade. Photo Credit: Do Mi Nic<\/a> \/ Adobe Stock<\/figcaption><\/figure> Before your grass starts growing, get your lawn mower and other lawn care equipment ready for the months ahead. <\/p>
Follow this checklist to get your weed trimmers, lawn mower, and leaf blowers in shape:<\/p>
- Inspect your lawn mower for damage<\/strong> or rust before the season begins.<\/li>
- Make sure your mower\u2019s spark plug is in good condition<\/strong> and replace it if needed.<\/li>
- Change the oil filter<\/strong> in your mower to ensure optimal engine performance.<\/li>
- Refill the line in your weed eater<\/strong> to prepare for spring edging work.<\/li>
- Sharpen the blades on shears and mowers<\/strong>; dull blades can shred grass instead of slicing it cleanly, making your lawn susceptible to disease.<\/li>
- Test the charge on your batteries<\/strong> for electric tools and replace as needed.<\/li>
- Pick up gas for gas-powered tools<\/strong>; stale fuel left from last year may damage engine components.<\/li> <\/ul>
Good to know: <\/strong>Mower blades should be sharpened every 20 to 25 hours of use. If you mow your yard for about an hour a week, schedule your next sharpening session for the fall. <\/p>
Read more: <\/strong>Best Lawn Mower Maintenance Practices<\/a> <\/p>
2. Clean up winter debris<\/span><\/h2>
After the winter snowstorms, your Camden yard is bound to have some leftover debris. Start light cleanup in early March when you can walk across your lawn without leaving deep footprints or mud marks.<\/p>
Rake up leaves, fallen sticks, branches, and dead plants. Picking up debris isn\u2019t just for aesthetics; pests often use it as a safe hideaway, and it can injure your grass and trap moisture, leading to disease. <\/p>
- Disposal: <\/strong>Call Camden Public Works<\/a> to schedule a pickup for yard waste. Once your yard waste is bagged and branches are bundled, make sure everything is prepared according to city rules.<\/li>
- Salt damage: <\/strong>Check grass near the sidewalk for salt damage. Deeply water the area if the soil is dry. This helps push the salt below the root zone. Apply approximately 1 inch of water per watering session over several days, divided into 2- to 3-inch applications.<\/li> <\/ul>
3. Treat lawn diseases <\/span><\/h2>
With lawn disease, the best offense is a good defense. Following good lawn mowing habits is the easiest way to fight lawn diseases, but there are steps you can take if fungal growth takes hold. <\/p>
Begin inspecting your lawn in late March<\/strong> as temperatures warm. Look for signs of snow mold after snow melts, then monitor through late April and May for leaf spot, red thread, and dollar spot.<\/p>
Here are some of the most common spring lawn diseases in Camden:<\/p>
- Dollar spot: <\/strong>Straw-colored patches with white growth. Apply preventative fungicides when night temperatures stay above 50 degrees.<\/li>
- Red thread: <\/strong>Tan patches with pinkish-red threads. Red thread often resolves on its own, so treat with fungicides only when damage to your lawn is significant and noticeable.<\/li>
- Leaf spot: <\/strong>Tan patches with brown or purple-bordered spots. Apply fungicides at the first sign of infection in April for best results.<\/li>
- Snow mold: <\/strong>May have a pinkish tint if pink snow mold or a whitish tint if gray snow mold (diseases caused by different fungi). Lightly rake these areas to let air in. Apply fungicide only if needed.<\/li> <\/ul>
Read more:<\/strong> How to Identify and Treat Grass Fungus<\/a><\/p>
4. Get rid of weeds<\/span><\/h2>
Springtime is when summer annual weeds germinate, making it the perfect time to apply pre-emergent herbicides. Do this in early spring to stop weeds from sprouting. <\/p>
Crabgrass starts germinating<\/strong> when the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees for a few days<\/strong> in a row, so you\u2019ll want to apply pre-emergent<\/strong><\/a> when soil temperatures are around 50 degrees<\/strong> (typically between late March and mid-April). <\/p>
Watch for forsythia bushes to bloom as a natural indicator that germination is approaching. You can also place a soil thermometer 2 inches deep in bare soil or lawn areas. Check morning temperatures in multiple spots across your yard, and wait 5 minutes for an accurate reading.<\/p>
Other common spring weeds in Camden include:<\/strong><\/p>
- Nutsedge:<\/strong> Nutsedge emerges in late spring when soils warm. Treat in late May through June with post-emergent sedge herbicides<\/a> when plants have 3 to 8 leaves and before tubers form.<\/li>
- Chickweed:<\/strong> Chickweed germinates in the fall as a winter annual. In spring (April to May), spot-treat visible patches with broadleaf post-emergent herbicides while actively growing. Prevent chickweed next year with fall pre-emergent.<\/li>
- Dandelion: <\/strong>They bloom mid-April in New Jersey. Spray with broadleaf herbicides in late April to May when actively growing, or better yet, treat in fall (September to October) with a pre-emergent herbicide for deeper root kill.<\/li> <\/ul>
5. Apply pest control<\/span><\/h2>
Spring brings active insects back to life. While most lawn pest outbreaks peak in summer, monitoring now helps you catch problems early. Rutgers Cooperative Extension advises against blanket spring pesticides\u2014especially for grubs, as spring treatments are rarely effective.<\/p>
Focus instead on monitoring in late April and treating only the following threats if discovered:<\/p>
- Bluegrass billbugs<\/strong>: Watch for adults or sawdust-like material near grass crowns. If you find high populations in perennially infested areas, treat with an insecticide in late April to early May. Apply 0.1 inch of water immediately to move the insecticide into the soil.<\/li>
- Sod webworms:<\/strong> Larvae surface in May to early June as the soil warms. Monitor for small, irregular patches of brown grass stripped to the ground. Spot-treat in the evening when larvae are feeding. Delay watering for 24 hours so the product stays on the grass leaves.<\/li> <\/ul>
Read more: <\/strong>
Common Spring Lawn Pests<\/a>
Guide to Using Pesticides on Your Lawn<\/a> <\/p>6. Test your soil<\/span><\/h2>
![\"A](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/soil-test.jpeg\")
Soil testing. Photo Credit: Phoebe<\/a> \/ Adobe Stock<\/figcaption><\/figure> Before spreading fertilizer, you need to know what your lawn actually needs. Soil pH often requires adjustment here, and guessing can lead to chemical runoff and wasted money. <\/p>
The best time to test your soil is early spring (around mid-March) <\/strong>once the ground thaws, ensuring you receive results before the growing season peaks.<\/p>
Purchase a sampling kit from the Rutgers Soil Testing Laboratory<\/a>. The basic fertility test costs around $20 and includes nutrient recommendations.<\/p>
Note:<\/strong> Do not water before sampling. Collect your soil sample on a dry day for accurate results.<\/p>
Read more:<\/strong>
How to Soil Test Your Lawn<\/a>
How to Read a Soil Test Report<\/a><\/p>7. Fertilize, if needed<\/span><\/h2>
Your lawn likely retains nutrients from fall, so only fertilize if a test confirms the need or your grass looks thin or pale.<\/p>
Remember, feeding too early pushes rapid blade growth that exhausts root energy, leaving grass vulnerable to summer heat. Wait until the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees<\/strong> to ensure active growth. Hold off until Memorial Day (mid-to-late May).<\/p>
Note:<\/strong> Fall fertilization (September through November) is far more beneficial than spring applications.<\/p>
Local recommendations:<\/strong><\/p>
- New Jersey law limits fertilizer applications to 0.9 pounds of total nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, with at least 20% in slow-release form.<\/li>
- Verify that the middle number on the bag is zero to comply with phosphorus laws.<\/li>
- Spread granules on dry grass so they reach the soil.<\/li>
- Water your lawn immediately after applying fertilizer. This washes the product into the soil. Give it about a quarter inch of water right away.<\/li> <\/ul>
Warning: <\/strong>In New Jersey, you cannot fertilize between November 15 and March 1. <\/p>
Read more:<\/strong>
How to Fertilize Your Lawn<\/a>
Should You Mow Your Lawn Before Fertilizing?<\/a> <\/p>8. Check sprinklers and start watering<\/span><\/h2>
Since Camden\u2019s natural rainfall is usually sufficient through spring, wait until weekly precipitation consistently drops below 1 inch <\/strong>(usually mid-to-late May) <\/strong>to start watering your grass. Irrigating too early promotes shallow root growth and encourages fungal diseases.<\/p>
Instead, prioritize checking your irrigation system<\/strong> before the summer heat arrives. By late April, turn on your water supply to inspect the lines for broken sprinkler heads, misaligned spray nozzles, or pipe leaks caused by winter freezing.<\/p>
Watering checklist:<\/strong><\/p>
- Monitor rainfall:<\/strong> Only supplement with irrigation if local rainfall drops below 1 inch per week during warm, dry spells.<\/li>
- Watch for stress:<\/strong> Water when footprints remain on the lawn, indicating the grass blades have lost moisture and elasticity.<\/li>
- Check color:<\/strong> Look for a bluish-gray cast or folding leaves. This signals it is necessary to apply deep watering immediately.<\/li>
- Check soil moisture:<\/strong> Push a screwdriver down into the ground. If it goes in easily, the soil doesn\u2019t need water, but if it requires effort, the soil is dry, and it\u2019s time to water.<\/li>
- Calibrate your watering system:<\/strong> Established lawns in Camden need 1 to 2 inches of water per week once you begin watering.<\/li> <\/ul>
9. Know when to mow<\/span><\/h2>
There\u2019s no set date for when to mow your lawn for the first time in spring. Let your grass get to about 3 to 4 inches tall<\/strong> before you give it its first haircut of the year. <\/p>
Once you start, mow weekly to keep your grass at its recommended height so you don\u2019t have to chop off a bunch after weeks of growth (removing more than 1\/3 of the leaf blade in one go will harm your grass). <\/p>
Warning:<\/strong> Avoid mowing when the soil is wet, and remember to alternate your mowing pattern each week to promote healthier, more even growth.<\/p>
We\u2019ve listed the recommended mowing heights for some of the most common grasses in the Camden area:<\/p>
- Watch for stress:<\/strong> Water when footprints remain on the lawn, indicating the grass blades have lost moisture and elasticity.<\/li>
- Monitor rainfall:<\/strong> Only supplement with irrigation if local rainfall drops below 1 inch per week during warm, dry spells.<\/li>
- Sod webworms:<\/strong> Larvae surface in May to early June as the soil warms. Monitor for small, irregular patches of brown grass stripped to the ground. Spot-treat in the evening when larvae are feeding. Delay watering for 24 hours so the product stays on the grass leaves.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Chickweed:<\/strong> Chickweed germinates in the fall as a winter annual. In spring (April to May), spot-treat visible patches with broadleaf post-emergent herbicides while actively growing. Prevent chickweed next year with fall pre-emergent.<\/li>
- Red thread: <\/strong>Tan patches with pinkish-red threads. Red thread often resolves on its own, so treat with fungicides only when damage to your lawn is significant and noticeable.<\/li>
- Salt damage: <\/strong>Check grass near the sidewalk for salt damage. Deeply water the area if the soil is dry. This helps push the salt below the root zone. Apply approximately 1 inch of water per watering session over several days, divided into 2- to 3-inch applications.<\/li> <\/ul>
- Make sure your mower\u2019s spark plug is in good condition<\/strong> and replace it if needed.<\/li>
- 2. Clean up winter debris<\/a><\/li>
![\"Illustration](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thatch-illustration.jpg\")