- Rake regularly<\/a><\/li>
- Control thatch, if necessary<\/a><\/li>
- Aerate<\/a><\/li>
- Overseed<\/a><\/li>
- Mow until it stops growing<\/a><\/li>
- Fertilize, if need be\u00a0<\/a><\/li>
- Weed control<\/a><\/li>
- Don\u2019t stop watering<\/a><\/li>
- Shut down your sprinkler system<\/a><\/li>
- Winterize all lawn care equipment<\/a><\/li>
- Much ado about mulch<\/a><\/li>
- Prune and croon\u00a0<\/a><\/li>
- Clean the gutters<\/a><\/li><\/ol> \t\t\t<\/div> \t\t<\/div><\/div>
![\"Close](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/rsz_leaves-2901684_1280.jpg\")
congerdesign<\/a> | Pixabay<\/figcaption><\/figure> 1. Rake regularly<\/span><\/h2>
Unfortunately, those gorgeous leaves eventually blanket your lawn. To maintain a healthy lawn, rake<\/a> every three to four days, depending on the expediency of cascading leaves. Left to accumulate, these mounds of fallen leaves will:<\/p>
- Block sunlight, water, and other nutrients from penetrating the soil<\/li>
- Result in disease and decay on your lawn<\/li>
- Invite unwanted pests <\/li> <\/ul>
The removal of leaf \u201cvolcanoes\u201d ensures healthy, oxygen-rich soil in the spring.<\/p>
If your lawn is too large to rake, or if your property is heavily forested<\/a>, consider a leaf blower. Here are some of the pros and cons for different blowers: <\/p>
Gas blower:<\/strong><\/p>
- Most expensive<\/li> <\/ul>
- Very powerful<\/li>
- Heavy<\/li>
- Releases smoke<\/li>
- Noisy<\/li> <\/ul>
Corded:<\/strong><\/p>
- Reasonably priced<\/li>
- Lightweight<\/li>
- No pollution<\/li>
- Lacks mobility; needs to be attached to a power outlet <\/li> <\/ul>
Battery-powered:<\/strong><\/p>
- Reasonably priced (but higher-quality batteries give out more power than those bundled with blower)<\/li>
- Need to be recharged<\/li>
- Restricted by battery strength<\/li> <\/ul>
Before investing in a blower, check with your town\u2019s regulations or contact<\/a> the Noise Pollution Clearinghouse for a list of local guidelines. Some areas restrict blower usage to certain hours or might totally ban leaf blower usage. <\/p>
Don\u2019t trash those leaves. <\/strong>If you haven\u2019t done so already, start a compost<\/a> <\/a>pile<\/a>. Leaves contain carbon, an essential component for photosynthesis and, subsequently, your lawn\u2019s success.<\/p>
![\"Illustration](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thatch-illustration.jpg\")
Infographic by Juan Rodriguez<\/figcaption><\/figure> 2. Control thatch, if necessary<\/span><\/h2>
Thatch<\/a> is a tightened layer of dead stems, roots, and other organic matter settled above the soil, beneath the grass blades. This layer, depending on the thickness, can be either beneficial or detrimental to your grass. <\/p>
If more than \u00bd inch thick, thatch will:<\/p>
- Lead to grass decay and fungal diseases<\/li>
- Stymie the flow of air, water, and fertilizer<\/li>
- Provide a breeding ground for unwanted insects<\/li> <\/ul>
If the thatch is less than \u00bd inch thick, it:<\/p>
- Protects against soil temperature fluctuation<\/li>
- Retains water efficiently<\/li>
- Acts as a mulch<\/li> <\/ul>
Ways to prevent thatch buildup:<\/p>
- Water your lawn infrequently and deeply instead of frequently and shallow<\/li>
- Don\u2019t be heavy handed with fertilizer<\/li>
- Mow regularly<\/li>
- Regularly test your soil<\/a> <\/li> <\/ul>
To determine if your thatch needs to be removed, perform this simple test:<\/p>
- Look for patchy brown spots or weeds in your lawn<\/li>
- Push a measuring stick into the grass and measure the spongy layer between the grass and the soil \u2014 if it\u2019s \u00bd inch or more, it\u2019s necessary to dethatch<\/li> <\/ul>
Dethatching<\/a> is the removal of excess thatch, that layer of debris and other organic matter settled in between the grass blades and the soil\u2019s surface. In simple terms, dethatching is a powerful, energetic raking.<\/p>
If you need to dethatch, you have some issues to consider:<\/p>
- How much thatch needs to be removed<\/li>
- The size of your yard<\/li>
- Can you \u201cmuscle\u201d the job yourself?<\/li> <\/ul>
Four methods to dethatch:<\/p>
- Thatch rake: Ideal for small lawns with minimal thatch problem<\/li>
- Electric\/corded thatcher: Ideal for medium lawns with mild to medium thatch problem<\/li>
- Power rake: Best for large, dense lawns with a serious thatch problem<\/li>
- Vertical mower\/verticutter<\/a>: Best for large lawns with a serious thatch problem<\/li> <\/ul>
Keep in mind, the best time to dethatch your cool-season grass is in early fall, while it\u2019s actively growing and the soil is moist. If you need a hand or two to assist, especially if you have a serious thatch problem, contact a professional lawn care service<\/a> in New Haven. <\/p>
![\"illustration](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/rsz_aeration.png\")
<\/figure> 3. Aerate<\/span><\/h2>
Aeration<\/a> is removing small plugs of soil from your lawn or punching the soil, creating small holes. Aerating provides space for water, oxygen, and other essential nutrients to penetrate the grass roots.<\/p>
The ideal time to aerate cool-season grasses is fall during the growing season. The grass will then have time to fill in before Old Man Winter pays a long visit. The second best time is spring. Never aerate in the summer when cool-season grasses suffer heat stress. <\/p>
You need to aerate if your lawn has:<\/p>
- Heavy foot, vehicle or large equipment traffic<\/li>
- Thick, clay soil<\/li>
- Compacted soil<\/li> <\/ul>
Benefits of aeration:<\/p>
- Reduces compaction<\/li>
- Improves circulation and absorption of air, water, and other nutrients<\/li>
- Stimulates roots<\/li>
- Energizes the lawn<\/li> <\/ul>
What is compaction<\/a>? Compaction exists when soil particles are tightly pressed together. Great density, reduced pore space, less water saturation, and reduced drainage exist when the soil is compacted. None of these conditions assist the lawn with healthy growth. <\/p>
The state of your soil and the level of damage determine the aeration method.<\/p>
How to aerate:<\/a><\/p>
- Spike or solid tine aeration<\/li>
- Hollow tining or core aeration <\/li> <\/ul>
If you have minimal compaction use either a spike, or solid tine, aeration method:<\/p>
- Use a rake or heavy spike placed on soles of your shoes<\/li>
- Machine with spikes, or tines, on the ends that can be pushed across the lawn<\/li> <\/ul>
For heavy damage or compaction, use a core aerator which is a large, expensive piece of machinery. You can rent one from your local nursery, but there\u2019s a skill level required. It\u2019s highly recommended you contact a professional to operate a core aerator. <\/p>
![\"Spreading](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/rsz_shutterstock_1368090050-1.jpg\")
Shutterstock<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure> 4. Overseed <\/strong><\/span><\/h2>
Overseeding<\/a> involves spreading grass seed on top of your existing lawn. It\u2019s a simple process that assists in energizing bare spots or thinning grass. You are not starting up a new lawn, but rather, spreading grass seed that will germinate new growth in patchy areas. <\/p>
The optimum time to overseed cool-season grass, such as those grown in New Haven, is early fall when the air temperatures get cooler allowing enough time for germination before the summer heat sets in. However, if you do decide to overseed in the summer, you need to be very diligent about watering so the grass is able to retain enough moisture. <\/p>
How to overseed<\/a>:<\/p>
- Mow to about 1 \u00bd inches to 2 inches<\/li>
- Dethatch <\/li>
- Aerate<\/li>
- Apply compost<\/li>
- Perform a soil test<\/li>
- Fertilize, if soil test reveals you need to do so<\/li>
- Spread seed<\/li>
- Rake to spread the seed evenly<\/li>
- Water daily or even twice daily<\/li>
- Keep seeds moist, not soggy<\/li> <\/ul>
Advantages <\/a>of overseeding:<\/p>
- Wards off weed competition<\/li>
- Renews the lawn\u2019s health and color<\/li>
- Fills in bare spots<\/li>
- Improves density<\/li> <\/ul>
![\"illustration](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/rsz_1lawnlove-one-third-rule-illustration.png\")
<\/figure> 5. Mow until it stops growing<\/span><\/h2>
In the fall, the tendency is to focus on raking up all those fallen leaves. However, you also need to continue mowing. If the air temperature is between 55 degrees and 75 degrees, your cool-season grasses continue in a growing mode<\/a>. Below 55 degrees, the rate of growth declines. <\/p>
Heed the one third rule of mowing.<\/a> Simply stated: Do not cut off more than one third of the grass blade at each mow. A deeper cut weakens and inhibits root growth. <\/p>
The following are recommended heights for your cool season grasses;<\/p>
Kentucky bluegrass: 2.5-3.5 inches<\/p>
Perennial ryegrass: 1.5-2.5 inches<\/p>
Tall fescue: 2-3 inches<\/p>
Fine fescue: 2-2.5 inches<\/p>
In general, New England lawns should be between 2 to 3 inches in height. For the definitive answer regarding your specific grass species, contact your New Haven extension office.<\/a> <\/p>
![\"Man](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/rsz_1shutterstock_1501650482.jpg\")
Shutterstock<\/a> <\/figcaption><\/figure> 6. Fertilize, if need be <\/span><\/h2>
We seem to be continually bombarded with advice on supplementing our diet with vitamins and protein shakes. Well, your lawn just might need that same boost to kick into high gear. But, similar to getting a blood test to determine what your body requires, you\u2019ll need to first perform a soil test<\/a> to determine the exact nourishment your lawn needs. <\/p>
A soil test in the fall is an optimum time<\/a> as the nutrients added will interact with the soil over the winter. If you do sample in the spring, try doing it early in the season to give your beds proper preparation before planting. <\/p>
Lawns generally require a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. (However, because of a 2013 Connecticut law, lawn fertilizers are phosphorus-free)<\/a>. This is referred to as the N-P-K ratio. For example, a fertilizer with a ratio of 25-0-25 contains 26% nitrogen, 0% phosphorus, and 25% potassium. <\/p>
How to do a soil test:<\/strong><\/p>
- Dig into soil approximately 6 inches with a small shovel or spade<\/li>
- Collect 15-20 samples from different areas <\/li>
- Place in a small plastic \u2014 not metal \u2014 container<\/li>
- Do not collect wet soil <\/li>
- Drop off or send to your local extension center<\/li> <\/ul>
Once you know what your soil needs, it\u2019s time to fertilize.<\/p>
Different types of fertilizer spreaders:<\/a><\/p>
- Drop spreader<\/li>
- Broadcast\/rotary spreader<\/li> <\/ul>
Drop spreader<\/strong><\/p>
- Narrow distribution area<\/li>
- Used for small- to medium-sized lawns<\/li>
- More expensive that rotary spreaders<\/li> <\/ul>
Broadcast\/rotary spreaders:<\/strong><\/p>
- Appropriate for larger yards<\/li>
- Easy to use<\/li> <\/ul>
![\"Dandelions](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/pexels-michal-ludwiczak-1239171_800.jpg\")
Micha\u0142 Ludwiczak<\/a> | Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure> 7. Weed control<\/span><\/h2>
Drop that football and instead tackle those weeds with a pre-emergent herbicide<\/a> to prevent a spring eruption. However, if weeds are still sprouting in the fall, you\u2019ll need to hit them with a post-emergent herbicide.<\/a> <\/p>
Weeds come in many varieties, shapes and sizes. Some common ones<\/a> you might encounter in Connecticut are:<\/p>
- Dandelion<\/li>
- Henbit<\/li>
- Creeping Charlie<\/li>
- Broadleaf plantain<\/li>
- Nutsedge<\/li>
- Prickly lettuce<\/li>
- Crabgrass<\/li> <\/ul>
Why weeds need to be controlled:<\/p>
- Compete with \u201cgood plants\u201d for space<\/li>
- Prevent grass and other plants from thriving<\/li>
- Might house unwanted insects<\/li>
- Compete for water, sunlight, and other essential nutrients<\/li> <\/ul>
When applying a herbicide, follow the instructions carefully and wear appropriate clothing for protection, such as long sleeves and pants. <\/p>
If you are worried about exposure to chemical treatments, here are some organic remedies <\/a>to suppress weeds:<\/p>
- Green Gobbler Vinegar Weed and Grass Killer<\/li>
- Natural Armor Weed & Grass Killer<\/li>
- Doctor Kirchner Natural Weed Killer<\/li> <\/ul>
Make your own weed killer:<\/p>
- Mix \u00bc cup of salt with a quart of white vinegar <\/li>
- Add 2 teaspoons of dish soap<\/li>
- Shake and spray<\/li> <\/ul>
If you want to try the \u201chands on\u201d remedy and pull the weeds out yourself, go for it! But, be sure to extricate the entire root system. This method might work with dandelions, depending on how many have popped up, but a herbicide application works more effectively. <\/p>
![\"Sprinkler](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/sprinkler-1.jpg\")
AxxLC<\/a> | Pixaby<\/figcaption><\/figure> 8. Don\u2019t stop watering<\/span><\/h2>
Despite that slight nip in the air, your lawn still requires hydration. A lawn well watered in the fall produces a healthy root system and verdant turf in the spring. Continue to water deeply, but infrequently, until the first freeze. During this time of the year, rather than rely on your sprinkler system with a set schedule, let your eyes program the watering timetable.<\/p>
Signs your lawn needs watering:<\/p>
- Clearly see your footprints after walking on the grass<\/li>
- Lawn is a dull, bluish-gray color<\/li>
- Leaf blades wilting<\/li> <\/ul>
On the other hand, if you notice water flowing down your driveway and into the street, this is an indication that you\u2019ve overwated.<\/p>
Your lawn requires approximately 1 to 1 \u00bd inches of water weekly. If nature isn\u2019t supplying enough, then you\u2019ll need to supplement.<\/p>
How to properly water:<\/p>
- Water early in the morning, before 10 a.m.<\/li>
- Early morning sun assists in drying off the grass<\/li>
- Morning watering reduces disease<\/li>
- Sun will evaporate water if you water later in the day<\/li> <\/ul>
To test your sprinkler output:<\/p>
- Place three small cans around the lawn; one near the sprinkler head, one in middle and another at end of the spray<\/li>
- Run sprinklers for 15 minutes<\/li>
- Measure amount of water in each can<\/li>
- Add and divide by 3 to determine the average output<\/li> <\/ul>
Another way to test your sprinkler output is the screwdriver test:<\/p>
- Run sprinklers for 15 minutes<\/li>
- If the screwdriver easily slides 6 inches into your soil, then 15 minutes is the proper amount of time to water<\/li> <\/ul>
![\"Frozen](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/icicles-3529002_1920_800.jpg\")
GWizUK<\/a> | Pixabay<\/figcaption><\/figure> 9. Shut down your sprinkler system<\/span><\/h2>
Once you are done watering for the season, and frost is on the way, it\u2019s imperative to shut down your system completely. Water residue can freeze resulting in cracked pipes and broken sprinkler heads. Consequently, the entire system might rupture!<\/p>
The three methods to winterize your sprinkler system are manual drain, automatic drain, and the blow-out method. <\/strong><\/p>
Manual drain: <\/strong><\/p>
- Shut off water access<\/li>
- Drain water out of mainline<\/li>
- Open test cocks on backflow device<\/li>
- Make sure all water has been drained out<\/li>
- Close all manual drain valves<\/li> <\/ul>
Automatic drain:<\/strong><\/p>
- Shut off irrigation water supply<\/li>
- Drain water<\/li>
- Open drain valve <\/li>
- Drain rest of water<\/li>
- Turn on test cocks on backflow device<\/li>
- Allow any excess water to drain<\/li> <\/ul>
Blow-out:<\/strong><\/p>
- This winterization method is potentially hazardous, time-consuming, and requires great skill. Compressed air can result in serious personal injury. We highly recommend you call in a professional service<\/a>. <\/li> <\/ul>
However, if you decide to take on this project, here are the steps, but proceed with caution:<\/p>
- Wear safety goggles<\/li>
- Shut off water supply<\/li>
- Connect air compressor to irrigation system<\/li>
- Turn on sprinkler furthest from the compressor<\/li>
- Close backflow valves to the irrigation system<\/li>
- Open valve on the compressor<\/li>
- Slowly add more pressure until water starts coming out of the sprinkler head you turned on<\/li>
- Turn off sprinkler head when the water stops flowing<\/li>
- Repeat process for each sprinkler head<\/li>
- Release any air pressure left in the system once the water is drained<\/li>
- Check and make sure all irrigation valves are closed<\/li> <\/ul>
![\"Inside](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/rsz_27695182698_e7a41f4610_c.jpg\")
Robert Couse-Baker<\/a> | Flickr | CC BY 2.0<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure> 10. Winterize all lawn care equipment<\/span><\/h2>
Before any of your lawn and garden equipment settles in for a winter\u2019s nap, they require a thorough cleaning, maintenance, and then storage. Responsible maintenance and winterizing<\/a> prevents corrosion and improves performance.<\/p>
Gas and battery-powered mowers:<\/strong><\/p>
- Wipe off any debris, clippings, and moisture<\/li>
- Disconnect spark plug<\/li>
- Drain the gas on gas model; remove battery on battery-powered model<\/li>
- Replace oil<\/li>
- Store in a dry place such as a garage or shed<\/li> <\/ul>
Leaf blowers:<\/strong><\/p>
- Clean or replace the filter<\/li>
- Disconnect spark plug<\/li>
- Drain excess fuel, if applicable<\/li>
- Clean carburetor<\/li>
- Inspect straps for tears or wear<\/li>
- Check hose for cracks<\/li>
- If your model has a bag, empty it<\/li> <\/ul>
Weed eaters\/string trimmer:<\/strong><\/p>
- Wipe off any debris and wash with soap and water<\/li>
- Clean and\/or replace air filter<\/li>
- Drain fuel<\/li>
- Check string supply<\/li> <\/ul>
Chainsaw:<\/strong><\/p>
- Drain fuel<\/li>
- Remove chain<\/li>
- Clean all dirt and grime<\/li>
- Sharpen or replace the chain<\/li>
- Oil chain and wrap in cloth<\/li>
- Remove air breather and clean<\/li>
- Remove spark plug<\/li>
- Pour oil into spark plug opening<\/li>
- Replace spark plug<\/li>
- Clean air filter<\/li>
- Tighten all screws and bolts<\/li>
- Store in a clean, dry area and out of a child\u2019s reach<\/li> <\/ul>
By winterizing all your lawn care equipment, you can be sure it will be ready for spring.<\/p>
![\"Mulch](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/5091086347_282b513729_c.jpg\")
christina rutz<\/a> | Flickr | CC BY-SA 2.0<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure> 11. Much ado about mulch<\/span><\/h2>
- This winterization method is potentially hazardous, time-consuming, and requires great skill. Compressed air can result in serious personal injury. We highly recommend you call in a professional service<\/a>. <\/li> <\/ul>
- Most expensive<\/li> <\/ul>
- Control thatch, if necessary<\/a><\/li>