![\"two](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/rsz_1rsz_33717906860_c673dafe1b_c.jpg\")
1. Rake hardy <\/span><\/h2> Fall and raking leaves<\/a> seem to go hand-in-hand. The trees \u201cweep\u201d leaves at a frantic pace. You\u2019ll need to stay on top of it by raking every few days. Not only are those mounds of leaves unsightly, but they also can: <\/p> - Block sunlight<\/li>
- Result in disease and decay<\/li>
- Ruin your lawn<\/li>
- Beckson uninvited pests<\/li><\/ul>
If you grow weary of wielding a rake, switch to a leaf blower. Don\u2019t have one in your shed? Your local nursery would be happy to rent you one. They come in a variety of models and prices. You just might find one to purchase or rent that suits your budget (and saves your back!). <\/p>
Check out the differences in blowers:<\/p>
Gas Blower<\/strong><\/p> - Expensive<\/li>
- Powerful<\/li>
- Heavy<\/li>
- Noisy<\/li>
- Releases smoke<\/li><\/ul>
Corded:<\/strong><\/p> - Reasonably priced<\/li>
- Lightweight<\/li>
- Needs to be attached to a power outlet<\/li>
- Doesn\u2019t release smoke<\/li><\/ul>
Battery-powered:<\/strong><\/p> - Restricted by battery strength<\/li>
- Reasonably priced<\/li><\/ul>
Gas and battery operated blowers blow fast and efficiently. However, gas blowers tend to be quite noisy. (Check with the Noise Pollution Clearinghouse<\/a> for an emissions and usage guideline for your area.) Gas blowers might be banned completely, and blowing, in general, could be limited to certain times. <\/p> Pro Tip: <\/strong>When selecting a blower, bear in mind the weight and size. You\u2019ll want to be able to comfortably use it for more than 15 minutes. <\/p> After you\u2019ve gathered the leaves, it\u2019s an opportune time to start a compost pile<\/a> (or add to an existing one). Leaves are loaded with carbon, a necessary ingredient for photosynthesis, and, hence, your lawn\u2019s health. <\/p> ![\"Woman](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/dethatching_800.jpg\")
Jay Cross<\/a> | Flickr | CC BY-SA 2.0<\/a> <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 2. Dethatch <\/span><\/h2> Thatch<\/a> is a mix of dead stems, leaves, and roots that build up between the turf and soil. That built-up layer acts either as good mulch or is detrimental to your lawn. <\/p> If thatch is less than a \u00bd-inch thick, it: <\/p>
- Enables the soil to retain moisture<\/li>
- Insulates the lawn against extremes in soil temperature<\/li><\/ul>
Thatch over 1\/2 inch can:<\/p>
- Block the flow of air, water, and fertilizer<\/li>
- Interfere with the efficiency of herbicides and insecticides<\/li>
- Provide a home for unwanted pests and diseases<\/li><\/ul>
A simple test to determine if you have thatch: <\/strong><\/p> - Survey your lawn for brown spots<\/li>
- Measure the spongy layer between the surface and grass<\/li>
- If that layer is greater than \u00be inch, you have a thatch problem<\/li><\/ul>
Why dethatch cool-season grass in the fall?<\/strong>
Early fall dethatching<\/a> provides a quicker recovery for your lawn as the grass is in an active growing cycle.<\/p> Ways to dethatch:<\/p>
- Manual rake works best in small areas<\/li>
- Power rake, dethatcher, or verticutter<\/a> are more efficient for larger areas<\/li><\/ul>
If dethatching sounds a bit overwhelming, or if you don\u2019t have the proper equipment, call in a professional lawn care service to get the job done right. <\/p>
![\"illustration](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/rsz_aeration.png\")
<\/figure><\/div> 3. Aerate <\/span><\/h2> Aerating cool-season grass<\/a> in the fall allows the turf to recover during this time of active growth. Spring is the second best time of the year to aerate. <\/p> What is aeration? Aeration<\/a> is a process of creating holes in the soil. This task is designed to relieve soil compaction and allow water, oxygen, and nutrients to penetrate the roots. <\/p> If any of the following conditions exist, you need to consider aeration:<\/strong><\/p> - Compacted soil<\/a><\/li>
- Heavy foot traffic or equipment defaced your lawn<\/li>
- Heavy, clay soil<\/li><\/ul>
What is compacted soil? This occurs when soil particles, firmly packed or pressed together result in dense soil that doesn\u2019t allow air, water, or essential nutrients to enter.<\/p>
Aeration assists with<\/a>:<\/p> - Reducing thatch<\/li>
- Healthy grass growth<\/li>
- Stymying weeds<\/li>
- Nutrients penetrating the soil<\/li>
- Breaking up compacted soil<\/li>
- Repairing damage from vehicles, heavy machinery, or constant foot traffic<\/li><\/ul>
The type of tool or equipment you will use depends on the size of your lawn and its damage:<\/p>
- Rake<\/li>
- Spike aerator<\/li>
- Core aerator<\/li><\/ul>
A rake and spike aerators work best on smaller lawns. On the other hand, core aerators are great for bigger lawns and can be rented from garden equipment centers or nurseries. However, the operator must possess experience, skill and strength. This task might best be performed by a professional<\/a>. <\/p> ![\"illustration](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/rsz_overseeding_map.png\")
<\/figure><\/div> 4. Overseed <\/span><\/h2> Summer fun with family and friends \u2014 barbecues, horseshoe games, bocce, frisbee with the kids and pets \u2014 all take a toll on your lawn. Extensive foot traffic results in bare spots which, subsequently, require overseeding. <\/p>
What is overseeding<\/a>? Overseeding is rejuvenating your lawn by spreading and planting grass seed over the surface. Your existing lawn will not be disturbed but, at the same time, you\u2019ll be enhancing the color, health, and thickness. <\/p> Early fall\u2019s daytime mild temperatures and cool evenings provide just the right atmosphere for seeds to germinate. Also, the soil moisture proves to be appropriate in the fall. You can overseed in the spring as your second choice but get to it early before that sun roasts your soil. <\/p>
Overseeding steps: <\/strong><\/p> - Mow (leave about 1 \u00bd inch to 2 inch grass blades)<\/li>
- Dethatch<\/li>
- Aerate<\/li>
- Add compost<\/li>
- Spread seed<\/li>
- Rake to mix in seed<\/li>
- Fertilize<\/li>
- Apply a thin layer of mulch or straw<\/li>
- Water every day for about 3 weeks<\/li><\/ul>
![\"Soil](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/soil-ph-7.jpg\")
Ragga Muffin<\/a> | Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 5. Fertilize, if necessary, to stimulate growth <\/span><\/h2> Before your grass settles in for a winter, add fertilizer to energize the lawn.The best time to fertilize your cool-season grass is October through early November. <\/p>
Here\u2019s why you should fertilize<\/a>: <\/strong><\/p> - Encourages spring and summer growth<\/li>
- Promotes density<\/li>
- Discourages weeds<\/li>
- Enhances the color<\/li>
- Preps the lawn for winter<\/li>
- Reduces water runoff<\/li><\/ul>
However, before you grab that fertilizer bag, you must perform a soil test<\/a>. Testing is essential to determine the health of the soil and ascertain the exact ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). This is called the N-P-K ratio. For example, a fertilizer package stating 30-10-30 contains 30% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 30% potassium. <\/p> How to conduct a soil test: <\/strong><\/p> - Use a garden shovel or trowel <\/li>
- Thoroughly clean your digging tool <\/li>
- Dig approximately 6 inches <\/li>
- Collect samples from different areas around your yard <\/li>
- Collect about 2 cups<\/li>
- Place in a plastic container and mix well <\/li>
- Do not collect wet soil (wet soil can give a false reading) <\/li><\/ul>
Your soil sample can be taken or sent to the Lehigh Valley extension office. Alternatively, you can purchase an at-home soil test kit from them or a nursery. <\/p>
![\"Dandelions](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/pexels-michal-ludwiczak-1239171_800.jpg\")
Micha\u0142 Ludwiczak<\/a> | Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 6. Weed control <\/span><\/h2> In the Lehigh Valley you might come across one or more of the the following weeds come fall: <\/p>
- Dandelions<\/a> <\/li>
- Musk thistle<\/a><\/li>
- Greater celandine<\/li>
- Henbit<\/a> <\/li>
- Shepherd’s purse<\/a> <\/li>
- Moneywort<\/a> <\/li><\/ul>
Weeds<\/a>, an undesirable nuisance, need to be tackled in the fall with a pre-emergent herbicide<\/a> to prevent a spring outburst. However, if those invaders are still persistently emerging in the fall (and that\u2019s not all that unusual), knock them dead with a post-emergent herbicide<\/a>. <\/p> Weeds need to be controlled for the following reasons: <\/strong><\/p> - Take up garden space <\/li>
- Stymie the good plants from thriving <\/li>
- Might provide housing for unwanted insects <\/li>
- Rob water and nutrients from desirable plants<\/li><\/ul>
Of course, there\u2019s always the tried and true method of pulling weeds by hand. You might have some luck applying hand-to-hand combat with a dandelion, but you need to pull the entire root. In general, applying an herbicide requires less labor and is more effective. <\/p>
![\"Mowing](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/pexels-magic-k-6728919_800.jpg\")
Magic K<\/a> | Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 7. Mow until it doesn\u2019t grow <\/span><\/h2> Cool-season grasses continue to require mowing in the fall, but not as often. Mow about every four to seven days. <\/p>
As the temperature cools down, your grass will grow at a slower rate. Cool-season grasses should be kept to about 2 to 2 \u00bd inches high in both spring and fall. That last mow, before the frost, shouldn\u2019t be higher than 2 inches. You don\u2019t want to be higher as long and matted grass becomes susceptible to diseases, such as snow mold. <\/p>
Adhere to the one-third rule of mowing. <\/strong>Do not cut more than one-third of your grass\u2019s total height. Consider the following height guidelines for cool-season grasses: <\/p>
- Block sunlight<\/li>
- Result in disease and decay<\/li>
- Ruin your lawn<\/li>
- Beckson uninvited pests<\/li><\/ul>
If you grow weary of wielding a rake, switch to a leaf blower. Don\u2019t have one in your shed? Your local nursery would be happy to rent you one. They come in a variety of models and prices. You just might find one to purchase or rent that suits your budget (and saves your back!). <\/p>
Check out the differences in blowers:<\/p>
Gas Blower<\/strong><\/p>
- Expensive<\/li>
- Powerful<\/li>
- Heavy<\/li>
- Noisy<\/li>
- Releases smoke<\/li><\/ul>
Corded:<\/strong><\/p>
- Reasonably priced<\/li>
- Lightweight<\/li>
- Needs to be attached to a power outlet<\/li>
- Doesn\u2019t release smoke<\/li><\/ul>
Battery-powered:<\/strong><\/p>
- Restricted by battery strength<\/li>
- Reasonably priced<\/li><\/ul>
Gas and battery operated blowers blow fast and efficiently. However, gas blowers tend to be quite noisy. (Check with the Noise Pollution Clearinghouse<\/a> for an emissions and usage guideline for your area.) Gas blowers might be banned completely, and blowing, in general, could be limited to certain times. <\/p>
Pro Tip: <\/strong>When selecting a blower, bear in mind the weight and size. You\u2019ll want to be able to comfortably use it for more than 15 minutes. <\/p>
After you\u2019ve gathered the leaves, it\u2019s an opportune time to start a compost pile<\/a> (or add to an existing one). Leaves are loaded with carbon, a necessary ingredient for photosynthesis, and, hence, your lawn\u2019s health. <\/p>
Jay Cross<\/a> | Flickr | CC BY-SA 2.0<\/a> <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 2. Dethatch <\/span><\/h2>
Thatch<\/a> is a mix of dead stems, leaves, and roots that build up between the turf and soil. That built-up layer acts either as good mulch or is detrimental to your lawn. <\/p>
If thatch is less than a \u00bd-inch thick, it: <\/p>
- Enables the soil to retain moisture<\/li>
- Insulates the lawn against extremes in soil temperature<\/li><\/ul>
Thatch over 1\/2 inch can:<\/p>
- Block the flow of air, water, and fertilizer<\/li>
- Interfere with the efficiency of herbicides and insecticides<\/li>
- Provide a home for unwanted pests and diseases<\/li><\/ul>
A simple test to determine if you have thatch: <\/strong><\/p>
- Survey your lawn for brown spots<\/li>
- Measure the spongy layer between the surface and grass<\/li>
- If that layer is greater than \u00be inch, you have a thatch problem<\/li><\/ul>
Why dethatch cool-season grass in the fall?<\/strong>
Early fall dethatching<\/a> provides a quicker recovery for your lawn as the grass is in an active growing cycle.<\/p>Ways to dethatch:<\/p>
- Manual rake works best in small areas<\/li>
- Power rake, dethatcher, or verticutter<\/a> are more efficient for larger areas<\/li><\/ul>
If dethatching sounds a bit overwhelming, or if you don\u2019t have the proper equipment, call in a professional lawn care service to get the job done right. <\/p>
<\/figure><\/div> 3. Aerate <\/span><\/h2>
Aerating cool-season grass<\/a> in the fall allows the turf to recover during this time of active growth. Spring is the second best time of the year to aerate. <\/p>
What is aeration? Aeration<\/a> is a process of creating holes in the soil. This task is designed to relieve soil compaction and allow water, oxygen, and nutrients to penetrate the roots. <\/p>
If any of the following conditions exist, you need to consider aeration:<\/strong><\/p>
- Compacted soil<\/a><\/li>
- Heavy foot traffic or equipment defaced your lawn<\/li>
- Heavy, clay soil<\/li><\/ul>
What is compacted soil? This occurs when soil particles, firmly packed or pressed together result in dense soil that doesn\u2019t allow air, water, or essential nutrients to enter.<\/p>
Aeration assists with<\/a>:<\/p>
- Reducing thatch<\/li>
- Healthy grass growth<\/li>
- Stymying weeds<\/li>
- Nutrients penetrating the soil<\/li>
- Breaking up compacted soil<\/li>
- Repairing damage from vehicles, heavy machinery, or constant foot traffic<\/li><\/ul>
The type of tool or equipment you will use depends on the size of your lawn and its damage:<\/p>
- Rake<\/li>
- Spike aerator<\/li>
- Core aerator<\/li><\/ul>
A rake and spike aerators work best on smaller lawns. On the other hand, core aerators are great for bigger lawns and can be rented from garden equipment centers or nurseries. However, the operator must possess experience, skill and strength. This task might best be performed by a professional<\/a>. <\/p>
<\/figure><\/div> 4. Overseed <\/span><\/h2>
Summer fun with family and friends \u2014 barbecues, horseshoe games, bocce, frisbee with the kids and pets \u2014 all take a toll on your lawn. Extensive foot traffic results in bare spots which, subsequently, require overseeding. <\/p>
What is overseeding<\/a>? Overseeding is rejuvenating your lawn by spreading and planting grass seed over the surface. Your existing lawn will not be disturbed but, at the same time, you\u2019ll be enhancing the color, health, and thickness. <\/p>
Early fall\u2019s daytime mild temperatures and cool evenings provide just the right atmosphere for seeds to germinate. Also, the soil moisture proves to be appropriate in the fall. You can overseed in the spring as your second choice but get to it early before that sun roasts your soil. <\/p>
Overseeding steps: <\/strong><\/p>
- Mow (leave about 1 \u00bd inch to 2 inch grass blades)<\/li>
- Dethatch<\/li>
- Aerate<\/li>
- Add compost<\/li>
- Spread seed<\/li>
- Rake to mix in seed<\/li>
- Fertilize<\/li>
- Apply a thin layer of mulch or straw<\/li>
- Water every day for about 3 weeks<\/li><\/ul>
Ragga Muffin<\/a> | Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 5. Fertilize, if necessary, to stimulate growth <\/span><\/h2>
Before your grass settles in for a winter, add fertilizer to energize the lawn.The best time to fertilize your cool-season grass is October through early November. <\/p>
Here\u2019s why you should fertilize<\/a>: <\/strong><\/p>
- Encourages spring and summer growth<\/li>
- Promotes density<\/li>
- Discourages weeds<\/li>
- Enhances the color<\/li>
- Preps the lawn for winter<\/li>
- Reduces water runoff<\/li><\/ul>
However, before you grab that fertilizer bag, you must perform a soil test<\/a>. Testing is essential to determine the health of the soil and ascertain the exact ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). This is called the N-P-K ratio. For example, a fertilizer package stating 30-10-30 contains 30% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 30% potassium. <\/p>
How to conduct a soil test: <\/strong><\/p>
- Use a garden shovel or trowel <\/li>
- Thoroughly clean your digging tool <\/li>
- Dig approximately 6 inches <\/li>
- Collect samples from different areas around your yard <\/li>
- Collect about 2 cups<\/li>
- Place in a plastic container and mix well <\/li>
- Do not collect wet soil (wet soil can give a false reading) <\/li><\/ul>
Your soil sample can be taken or sent to the Lehigh Valley extension office. Alternatively, you can purchase an at-home soil test kit from them or a nursery. <\/p>
Micha\u0142 Ludwiczak<\/a> | Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 6. Weed control <\/span><\/h2>
In the Lehigh Valley you might come across one or more of the the following weeds come fall: <\/p>
- Dandelions<\/a> <\/li>
- Musk thistle<\/a><\/li>
- Greater celandine<\/li>
- Henbit<\/a> <\/li>
- Shepherd’s purse<\/a> <\/li>
- Moneywort<\/a> <\/li><\/ul>
Weeds<\/a>, an undesirable nuisance, need to be tackled in the fall with a pre-emergent herbicide<\/a> to prevent a spring outburst. However, if those invaders are still persistently emerging in the fall (and that\u2019s not all that unusual), knock them dead with a post-emergent herbicide<\/a>. <\/p>
Weeds need to be controlled for the following reasons: <\/strong><\/p>
- Take up garden space <\/li>
- Stymie the good plants from thriving <\/li>
- Might provide housing for unwanted insects <\/li>
- Rob water and nutrients from desirable plants<\/li><\/ul>
Of course, there\u2019s always the tried and true method of pulling weeds by hand. You might have some luck applying hand-to-hand combat with a dandelion, but you need to pull the entire root. In general, applying an herbicide requires less labor and is more effective. <\/p>
Magic K<\/a> | Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div> 7. Mow until it doesn\u2019t grow <\/span><\/h2>
Cool-season grasses continue to require mowing in the fall, but not as often. Mow about every four to seven days. <\/p>
As the temperature cools down, your grass will grow at a slower rate. Cool-season grasses should be kept to about 2 to 2 \u00bd inches high in both spring and fall. That last mow, before the frost, shouldn\u2019t be higher than 2 inches. You don\u2019t want to be higher as long and matted grass becomes susceptible to diseases, such as snow mold. <\/p>
Adhere to the one-third rule of mowing. <\/strong>Do not cut more than one-third of your grass\u2019s total height. Consider the following height guidelines for cool-season grasses: <\/p>
- Musk thistle<\/a><\/li>
- Dandelions<\/a> <\/li>
- Compacted soil<\/a><\/li>
![\"person](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/rsz_steve-dimatteo-w1r1ii4aw0q-unsplash.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"Frozen](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/icicles-3529002_1920_800.jpg\")
![\"underside](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/rsz_17218096280_40c673bc1f_c.jpg\")
![\"person](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/rsz_crystal-jo-pkctua_crao-unsplash.jpg\")