- The right way to rake<\/a><\/li>
- Dethatch<\/a><\/li>
- Aerate<\/a><\/li>
- Seed the soil<\/a><\/li>
- Fertilize<\/a><\/li>
- Control weeds<\/a><\/li>
- Eliminate pests<\/a><\/li>
- Know how to mow<\/a><\/li>
- Winterize your irrigation system<\/a><\/li>
- Mulch around<\/a><\/li>
- Clean the gutters<\/a><\/li><\/ol> \t\t\t<\/div> \t\t<\/div><\/div>
![\"Man](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/leaves-4684224_1920_800.jpg\")
photosharing<\/a> | Pixabay<\/figcaption><\/figure> 1. The right way to rake<\/span><\/h2>
Unfortunately that gorgeous display of leaves on the trees quickly transforms into a raking nightmare in your yard. You\u2019ll need to be diligent and rake every three to four days throughout the fall season.<\/p>
Reasons why you should rake leaves in your yard:<\/p>
- It helps the lawn breathe and allows water, light, and nutrients to reach the grass<\/li>
- Reduces thatch<\/a> buildup<\/li>
- Prevents pests<\/a> from invading your yard <\/li>
- Prevents lawn disease from attacking your grass<\/li>
- Allows your cool-season grasses<\/a> to grow strong and healthy<\/li>
- Makes your lawn look nicer and adds curb appeal to your home<\/li> <\/ul>
Raking can be a back-breaking chore, so here are some suggestions to get you in shape to rake<\/a>:<\/p>
- Stretch your back, arms, shoulders, and neck.<\/li>
- Maintain good posture.<\/li>
- Keep the rake close to your body.<\/li>
- Do not strain and reach for leaves not within your grasp.<\/li>
- Avoid twisting your back.<\/li>
- Knees should be slightly bent with one foot forward.<\/li>
- Stay hydrated. Dehydration can occur even in cool weather.<\/li>
- Take breaks. Don\u2019t overdo it in one day. Maybe rake one day and then pick up that pile the next.<\/li> <\/ul>
Take advantage of those mounds and start a compost pile<\/a>. Leaves contain carbon, one of the essential nutrients to nourish the compost.<\/p>
![\"Illustration](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thatch-illustration.jpg\")
Infographic by Juan Rodriguez<\/figcaption><\/figure> 2. Dethatch <\/span><\/h2>
Thatch is a layer of debris composed of dead fallen leaves, stems, and roots. If the pile becomes more than \u00bd inch thick, it\u2019s time to dethatch<\/a>. <\/p>
That thick thatch layer masquerades as sunglasses for your lawn and will:<\/p>
- Prevent nutrients, water, and oxygen from penetrating the soil<\/li>
- Encourages pests and lawn diseases if allowed to remain and turn moist and spongy<\/li>
- Can make herbicides and fertilizers less effective<\/li> <\/ul>
A layer of thatch less than \u00bd inch benefits the lawn by protecting it against temperature fluctuations.<\/p>
Cool-season grasses respond well to dethatching from late August to early October. <\/p>
There are several methods for dethatching your lawn:<\/p>
- Manual dethatcher (thatch rake): Best for small lawns with mild thatch<\/li>
- Electric (corded) dethatcher: Best for medium-sized lawns with mild to medium thatch<\/li>
- Power rake: Best for large lawns with serious thatch problems<\/li>
- Verticutter<\/a>: Best for large lawns with serious thatch problems<\/li> <\/ul>
The debris from dethatching is great to add to your compost pile. However, be sure it doesn\u2019t contain weeds, diseases, herbicides, or pesticides. <\/p>
![\"illustration](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/rsz_aeration.png\")
<\/figure> 3. Aerate<\/span><\/h2>
The health of your grass depends on the flow of water, air, and nutrients. Aeration<\/a> creates a passageway for these important ingredients to penetrate the lawn. <\/p>
Accomplish this task yourself with a garden fork and create small holes in the lawn. Alternatively, use a small foot-press aerator that is pushed into the soil like a shovel. <\/p>
However, it is more effective \u2014 and less back breaking, especially if you have a larger lawn \u2014 with heavy machinery<\/a>. You can buy or rent a powered core aerator similar to a lawn mower. Otherwise, contact a local Lawn Love pro<\/a> to handle the aeration<\/a>. <\/p>
Keep in mind that cool-season lawns prefer aeration between late August and early October. Spring is the second best time to aerate your cool-season lawn. <\/p>
![\"illustration](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/rsz_overseeding_map.png\")
<\/figure> 4. Seed the soil<\/span><\/h2>
Cool-season grasses<\/a>, such as Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass, are best suited to the local climate. They survive those frigid winters and are as hardy as Buffalonians.<\/p>
However, come fall, August through September, plant grass seed to \u201cfeed\u201d the existing lawn. Overseeding is spreading grass seed on your existing lawn to fill in bare spots and create a beautiful, lush, healthy lawn.<\/p>
Overseeding<\/a> can:<\/p>
- Improve grass density<\/li>
- Brighten the lawn\u2019s color<\/li>
- Fill in bare spots<\/li>
- Ward off insects and diseases<\/li>
- Reduce erosion<\/li>
- Reduce weeds<\/li> <\/ul>
Pro Tip: <\/strong>Buffalo\u2019s fall weather<\/a> primes the grass for efficient seeding. The combination of warm days, cool nights, and moisture in the air allow the seeds to germinate. <\/p>
![\"Grass](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/grass-soil-horizontal-view.jpg\")
Oregon State University<\/a> | Flickr | CC BY-SA 2.0<\/a> <\/figcaption><\/figure> 5. Fertilize<\/span><\/h2>
Summer heat and heavy foot traffic may have taken a toll on your grass. Mother Nature will soon cast a frosty spell over your Buffalo lawn. Early September is the optimum time to fertilize your lawn.<\/p>
Before you fertilize, test your soil for nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus levels. A test will determine what kind of fertilizer you need. You might notice a set of three numbers on the fertilizer bag. For example, 30-5-20 means it contains 30% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, and 20% potassium. This is the NPK ratio<\/a> of nutrients for your soil. <\/p>
The Cornell Cooperative Extension will measure the nutrient levels and provide the proper ratio for your lawn. An at-home test is also available for purchase.<\/p>
To properly obtain a sample<\/a>, follow these steps: <\/p>
- Do not sample wet soil.<\/li>
- Use a garden spade.<\/li>
- Dig in approximately 6 inches.<\/li>
- Sample about a dozen places throughout your lawn.<\/li>
- Collect 2 cups<\/li> <\/ul>
Pro Tip: <\/strong>Apply fertilizer before it rains. If not, you will have to thoroughly water the grass yourself. Also, it\u2019s best to spread fertilizer when nighttime temperatures are in the 60s.<\/p>
![\"Dandelions](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/pexels-michal-ludwiczak-1239171_800.jpg\")
Micha\u0142 Ludwiczak<\/a> | Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure> 6. Control weeds<\/span><\/h2>
Weeds<\/a>, a nasty nuisance, test a lawn lover\u2019s mettle. Tackle the problem head on and practice prevention. Weed treatments come in two varieties \u2014 pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent herbicides are used to prevent weeds from sprouting in your grass, while post-emergent herbicides attack weeds that are already in the lawn.<\/p>
In Buffalo, fall is the best time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide.<\/a> You usually want to apply pre-emergents between August and November. Broadleaf weeds<\/a> won\u2019t know what hit them! <\/p>
Often weeds \u201cdisguise\u201d themselves as pretty little flowers. Although weeds in upstate New York<\/a> might sprout in spring and summer, they could survive well into the fall. <\/p>
Some common weeds in upstate New York:<\/p>
- Bindweeds<\/li>
- Bull thistle<\/li>
- Canada thistle <\/li>
- Dandelion<\/li>
- Horsenettle<\/li>
- Yellow nutsedge<\/li> <\/ul>
You can find yourself in a vicious weed-prevention cycle. But it\u2019s best to be proactive and apply post-emergent herbicides<\/a> before they make a grand appearance in the spring when weeds are more active.<\/p>
![\"Garden](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/8476321688_8a4a2006f7_c.jpg\")
Grub | James Mann<\/a> | Flickr | CC BY-SA 2.0<\/a> <\/figcaption><\/figure> 7. Eliminate pests<\/span><\/h2>
Grubs, chinch bugs, sod webworms, or weevils might make your lawn their home. Unfortunately, they are not welcome guests. The best treatment plan is to be proactive in the spring or early summer. However, if pests have invaded your lawn you might need to construct a fall elimination plan.<\/a><\/p>
Grubs:<\/strong> Grubs<\/a> gorge on grass roots, and they especially crave<\/a> cool-season grasses. Even though grubs are active in mid to late summer, their damage doesn\u2019t show up until fall. If you have yellowing or dead grass, grass that pulls up easily or feels spongy, you need to test your soil. <\/p>
Chinch bugs:<\/strong> Chinch bugs<\/a> are active from April to July and again in August to September. You\u2019ll know if they\u2019ve used your lawn as a breeding surface if your turf is wilting and casting a purplish hue. Apply an insecticide which contains trichlorfon, bifenthrin, or carbaryl.<\/p>
Sod webworms:<\/strong> Generations of sod webworms munch on grass leaves and stems from May through September. They house themselves during the winter in tunnels they build in the fall. Miniscule green fecal droppings and bald patches of grass are tell-tale signs your lawn\u2019s infested. <\/p>
Pro Tip: <\/strong>Mix a solution of \u00bc cup of liquid household detergent and 2 cups of water. Douse your soil in scattered 3-square-foot sections around your lawn. Wait 10 minutes. If those pests are present, they\u2019ll surface. Treat with a broad-spectrum pesticide. <\/p>
Weevils:<\/strong> The bluegrass billbug, a weevil species, attacks Kentucky bluegrass. Another weevil species, the Argentine stem weevil favors perennial ryegrass. Their invasion <\/a>results in brown or yellow patches in the lawn. The best defense is applying pesticide in spring. However, if they haven\u2019t been eradicated or left you tell-tale signs they exist, call a professional <\/a>lawn service company. <\/p>
![\"Happy](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/pexels-gustavo-fring-5163430_800.jpg\")
Gustavo Fring<\/a> | Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure> 8. Know how to mow<\/span><\/h2>
Time your last mow before the first frost and aim for your lawn\u2019s final height.<\/a> Always heed the one-third rule: Do not cut more than one-third of your grass\u2019s length, it just might stress out! <\/p>
Grass too high? You\u2019ve left your lawn wide open to matting and disease. <\/p>
Cool-season mowing heights in the fall<\/strong><\/p>
- Prevents pests<\/a> from invading your yard <\/li>
- Dethatch<\/a><\/li>
![\"Frozen](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/icicles-3529002_1920_800.jpg\")
![\"Wheel](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/gardening-3997259_1920_800.jpg\")
![\"Leaved](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/gutter-guard-ipswich-2434467_1920_800.jpg\")
![\"Fall](\"https:\/\/lawnlove.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/fall-Niagara-falls-800.jpg\")