Common Spring Lawn Pests

As spring rolls around, we get to enjoy warmer weather, blooming flowers, and green grass. The party crasher in this scenario? Common spring lawn pests.

Pests aren’t just unsightly little creatures crawling over your grass. They can cause extensive (and expensive) damage, sometimes in the blink of an eye. Know which spring lawn pests are most likely to visit your yard so you can detect, eliminate, and prevent them.

11 common spring lawn pests

Spring is the season when many pests become active. Here are some common nuisances you might run across:

Ants

Preferred grass type: Tall, dense grass, including Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass

Ants are very common pests, terrorizing homeowners across the nation. They’re small, skinny bugs with six legs and antennae.

Some well-known ant species include:

• Carpenter ants
• Fire ants
• Pavement ants
• Cornfield ants
• Yellow ants
• Crazy ants
• Thief ants
• Acrobat ants
• Odorous house ants

Ants won’t damage your grass, but they can leave your yard covered in mounds of dirt, which can make many lawn care chores a challenge. They also can invade your home and bite you, your family, and your pets. This is especially true (and painful) if you’re dealing with fire ants, making it an unpleasant experience to walk around your own yard.

Signs of an ant problem

Ants are really common, and you shouldn’t feel concerned about an anthill or two. However, you don’t want a yard covered with these mounds, so be on the lookout for:

• Ants swarming around trash or food near your home
• Ants invading your home
• Multiple anthills across your backyard

How to eliminate ants

If your yard is covered in anthills, get ready to fight back. Thankfully, you don’t need to resort to chemical pesticides to rid your yard of this pest; you can try these natural approaches:

• Mix equal parts vinegar and water, or boil some water with a touch of dish soap.
• Rake open the anthill.
• Pour in the water/vinegar or boiling water/dish soap mixture to kill the pesky critters.
• You also can try flooding the anthills with a hose. Soak the anthills with water for 30 minutes, and repeat the next day. Other organic pest control methods for ants include white vinegar, Diatomaceous earth, baking soda, and borax. 

How to prevent ants

Keep ants away by:

• Keeping your yard clear of food, trash, and debris and your compost bin covered
• Sealing windows and doors with caulk
• Spraying ant-killer around your home’s foundation
• Placing broadcast bait stations around your yard

Aphids

Preferred food source: Plant stems, leaves, and roots to draw out the sap

Aphids are tiny, pear-shaped insects with soft bodies that develop wings in the adult stage. They can be found in a variety of colors, including green, red, yellow, gray, brown, and black. Aphids range from 1/16 to ⅛ inches in length and can be distinguished by two “tailpipes,” or tail-like structures, at the end of the abdomen. 

Aphids are odd insects. Female aphids will reproduce live offspring in the summer, with no need for a male mate. In the fall, they mate with mature male aphids and lay eggs that hatch in the spring. 

Once the aphid eggs hatch in the spring, a new population of aphids emerges to reproduce and feast on your garden, shrubs, and trees. Aphids typically don’t completely damage plants, but they do secrete honeydew, which increases the chances for sooty mold to grow on infested trees. 

Signs of an aphid problem

Aphids are extremely common, but large populations can wreak havoc on your landscape. You’ll know your plant is infested when you see these tiny bugs crawling all over the stems and leaves of the plant. 

Severe infestations result in:

• Yellow-colored foliage
• Stunted plant growth
• Curled or twisting leaves
• Dead plant shoots
• Aphid honeydew secretions
• Sooty mold
• Other plant viruses (mottled, yellowed, or misshapen leaves and produce)

How to eliminate aphids

In most cases, you won’t have to worry about aphids unless the population gets out of control.

If you notice aphids covering a plant, try spraying infested plants with a hose, and knocking them into a bucket of soapy water. The water should knock them away easily since they’re not very strong. 

If you have an extreme infestation, try using:

• Insecticidal soap
• Neem
• Horticultural oil
• Pyrethrins 

How to prevent aphids

Aphids emerge in late spring when temperatures begin to warm up. They prefer plants with high nitrogen levels and tend to feed on cabbage, asparagus, and spinach as well as hibiscus, hydrangea, peach, and pecan. 

You can keep aphids at bay in your yard by:

• Getting rid of weeds
• Avoiding the use of pesticides to encourage natural enemies (like ladybugs) to protect your yard
• Avoiding over-fertilization 
• Planting onions, garlic, and chives

Armyworms

Preferred grass type: Bermudagrass, fescues, ryegrass, and bentgrass

Armyworms are insects that travel in groups, decimating any vegetation they come across in their travels. These fairly common pests prefer turfgrasses but will eat anything from vegetables to crops such as wheat and corn in the absence of grass.

Left to its own devices, a large armyworm population (in larval form) can devastate a lawn in a matter of days. These pesky critters do their best destruction work at night, hiding under plants and other vegetation during the day. At the end of spring, the adult moths will fly to a target area and lay their eggs. From there, the hatched larvae feed on available vegetation and eventually burrow into the soil to complete their metamorphosis into adult moths.

Signs of an armyworm problem

An armyworm infestation will typically manifest as:

• Brown patches in the grass
• Ragged grass blades that look chewed
• Short grass that creates bare spots in the lawn (scalped look)
• Holes in the lawn as a result of skunks, raccoons, or possums trying to reach the armyworms

How to eliminate armyworms

Getting rid of armyworms and restoring your yard to its former glory can be done a number of ways. These include:

• Using pesticides that contain the active ingredients: Acetamiprid, Azadirachtin, Chlorantraniliprole, Tebufenozide, or Halofenozide. Follow the label instructions and apply the pesticides at the following intervals to get rid of all generations:
  • Late April to early May
  • Late June to early July
  • Late August to early September
• Mow your lawn as short as your grass type allows to eliminate any present armyworm eggs and make the environment less attractive for adult moths to lay new eggs
• Introduce beneficial nematodes into your yard to feed on armyworm populations causing you grief
• Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (a naturally occurring bacteria in the soil) to untouched grass once a week, once in the morning and once in the evening to avoid hot temperatures. Products containing this bacteria can be found in the form of sprays, dusts, or granules.
• Allow armyworm natural predators to feed on the pests. These include chickens, birds, spiders, and bigeyed bugs
• Let the first frost do the work for you

How to prevent armyworms

Nobody likes pests like armyworms taking over their yard, but there are some preventative measures that can help keep them at bay. Keep in mind that none of these methods are a sure thing, but they can mitigate the risk of armyworms in your yard.

• Take preventative measures such as applying preventative pesticides
• Keep your lawn weed-free to discourage moths from laying eggs
• Keep your soil as cool and moist as possible (without disrupting the ecosystem), as armyworms prefer dry, hot environments to thrive. Watering your lawn with one inch of water per week should be enough to create the proper conditions for a healthy, pest-free lawn.
• Don’t allow too much thatch to build up, as this can turn into an ideal breeding ground for pests, including armyworms

Billbugs

Preferred grass type: The roots of both warm-season (Zoysiagrass, Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass) and cool-season grasses (fescues, bentgrass, ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass)

Billbugs are small weevils/beetles that pose a significant threat to turfgrass and landscaping. They boast elongated snouts used for feeding and laying eggs and brown or black coloring. Their size can vary among the various species, but they typically have an oval-shaped body that reaches about ½ inch in length.

Billbugs are quite adept at causing damage by feeding on grassroots and plants alike, and they’re not concerned about whether you have warm-season or cool-season grass. Although the adults can pull their own weight, it’s the grub larvae that can decimate your lawn. They typically tunnel through the soil and greedily consume any roots they find, destroying your vegetation in one fell swoop.

Signs of a billbug problem

If billbugs have set up camp in your yard, you may notice any of the following signs:

• Gradual yellowing and thinning of grass in large patches
• Wilting plants
• Chewed leaf margins
• Spongy grass and uneven surfaces
• Easily dislodged grass as a result of weak/damaged roots
• White grubs at the root of the grass or plants
• Increased bird activity (birds such as crows like to feed on white grubs)

How to eliminate billbugs

To get billbug populations under control, you may have to combine various pest management methods. 

Natural predators such as parasitic wasps, beetles, and nematodes can be extremely helpful in managing billbug infestations. Combined with proper lawn maintenance and early detection, this approach can be effective in restoring your yard to its glory.

That said, if you have a lot of billbugs, you may have to consider chemical control. Specifically, opt for targeted insecticides that eliminate billbugs and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application. Rotate insecticide use to reduce the risk of resistance to the product.

How to prevent billbugs

Preventing billbug problems boils down to making your yard unattractive for these pests. Simple, right? It can be if you follow these steps:

• Don’t skip lawn care tasks. Mow your lawn according to your grass type, and maintain your grass in excellent condition with fertilizer, irrigation, and aeration
• Choose a variety of grass that can hold its own against billbugs. This can be cool-season grass such as Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue or any variety of Zoysia grass and St. Augustine grass (warm-season grasses)
• When applying fertilizer, follow recommended application rates. Too much nitrogen can attract billbugs like a magnet

Chinch bugs

Preferred grass type: St. Augustinegrass, fine fescue, Perennial ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, Zoysiagrass, crabgrass, Bermudagrass

Chinch bugs are tiny, sap-loving insects that can cause costly damage to your lawn (especially if it’s the warm-season variety). They’re difficult to spot, being less than a ¼ inch in size. While red in adolescence, they turn black and develop white wings on their backs in adulthood.

Chinch bugs can fly, but research shows they primarily walk, so if they’re terrorizing you, it’s likely your neighbors are having a problem with them, too. They infest thatch layers but can also be found on grass leaves when populations are large. 

They prefer hot, sunny, dry environments and typically gather near paved areas like sidewalks and driveways. They also can become a nuisance around golf courses and other turf settings.

Signs of a chinch bug problem

Chinch bug damage can easily be confused with brown patch and drought damage. You can tell the difference by looking for additional signs and checking for the actual presence of chinch bugs.

Common signs that chinch bugs may be attacking your turf: 

• Dead grass
• Stunted grass growth
• Increased weeds
• Yellowing or wilting grass in sunny areas
• Nymphs that are wingless and red or orange in color (near the soil surface)
• Visible adult chinch bugs on grass blades or in the thatch layer

How to eliminate chinch bugs

Chinch bug infestations can be difficult to manage. These insects are resistant to many common pesticides, but broad-spectrum products containing bifenthrin, trichlorfon, or carbaryl might help. Be sure to take caution when using insecticides. If mishandled, they can be harmful to you and your pets. 

You can also opt for using less toxic options such as Diatomaceous earth (DE), insecticidal soap, or neem oil to control chinch bugs. If that fails, introduce beneficial nematodes and natural predators into your yard, like ladybugs and spiders.

How to prevent chinch bugs

Chinch bug management can be successful if you’re proactive in your efforts. To create an unpleasant environment for this particular pest, try any of these strategies:

• Maintain a healthy lawn by fertilizing, watering, aerating, and mowing correctly
• Inspect your lawn regularly for signs of chinch bug activity (use a magnifying glass if necessary)
• If possible, establish an insect-resistant lawn (perennial ryegrass, fine fescue, and tall fescue)
• Remove thatch periodically to eliminate chinch bug hiding spots ideal for laying eggs
• Improve soil health by applying compost and mulch

Cutworms

Preferred grass type: Perennial ryegrass, bentgrass, or annual bluegrass

Cutworms are caterpillars that cut through the stems of young plants at ground level, causing the plants to wilt and collapse. They attack anything from ornamental plants to vegetables and crops. Cutworms are generally smooth and soft-bodied, with varying colors and patterns. They can range from green to brown and have distinctive markings.

Cutworms are night feeders, so they typically hide in the soil during the day. The time it takes for cutworms to complete their life cycle can vary; influencing factors include temperature, humidity, and rainfall, grass and plant availability, the presence of natural predators, and geographic location (warmer climates boost population growth).

They can produce multiple generations a year (typically two to six), but spring is when they cause the most damage.

Signs of a cutworm problem

When it comes to these critters, keep an eye out for:

• Wilted grass that looks shorter, sometimes cut down to the base
• Small burrows popping up across your lawn
• Destroyed seedlings
• Plant stems that are severed close to the ground
• Wilting common vegetables

How to eliminate cutworms

Try getting rid of cutworms the old-fashioned way — by hand. Scoop out the cutworms and drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Other organic pest control solutions include Diatomaceous earth, nematodes, and Bacillus thuringiensis. 

Chemical pesticides are not typically recommended, apart from cutworm baits. Place the cutworm baits around your yard on new, young plants. You can try to use other pesticides if you find one labeled for use against cutworms; just be sure to use it close to sundown when the insects are active.

How to prevent cutworms

Cutworm moths lay their eggs on grass and weed blades, and cutworm caterpillars can gather in the thatch layer of your yard, so be sure to: 

• Remove weeds from your yard.
• Keep a regular mowing schedule and cut your grass according to its type.
• Dethatch your lawn annually and consider aeration for better oxygen, water, and nutrient circulation.
• Remove any dead plants, debris, and other organic matter from your landscape to stop cutworm breeding.
• Maintain a border of dry soil around your garden as a buffer.
• Till your yard to disrupt the pupae in the soil, reducing their ability to emerge as adults and lay other eggs.

Grubs

Preferred grass type: No particular preference; will feed on fescues, Zoysiagrass, Centipedegrass, Bahiagrass, Bermudagrass, and Kentucky bluegrass

Also known as white grubs, these “C”-shaped insects are legless, have soft bodies, and can significantly damage your lawn. Grubs are the larvae form of various beetle-type insects, including: 

• Japanese beetles
• Masked chafers
• European chafers
• Billbugs
• June bugs

Grubs can be distinguished by their rastral pattern or the arrangement of spines around their anal opening. After being laid in the ground as eggs, they hatch into larvae and feed until they’re ready to transform into a pupa. After several weeks in the ground as pupas, they undergo a final metamorphosis and emerge as adult beetles.

Grubs can be found in various habitats, including soil, decaying organic matter, and plant roots. While some grubs play essential roles in ecosystems by aiding in decomposition and nutrient cycling, others can negatively impact lawn care and agricultural practices.

Signs of a grub problem

If you have a grub problem, you might notice:

• Wilted grass
• Spongy turf
• Small, irregular brown spots
• Dry, dying patches of grass
• Wildlife such as raccoons, skunks, and armadillos digging holes into the ground 
• Large patches of grass easily lifting out of the ground

How to eliminate grubs

If you have a serious grub infestation in the spring (10 or more grubs per square foot), you can try using these chemical pesticides to get it under control: 

• Dylox (apply after soil temps reach 55-60 degrees) 
• Pesticides containing chlorantraniliprole (apply in April or May)
• Carbaryl (apply before early May)
• Trichlorfon (apply before early May)

Consider using natural grub control methods if you have more than five grubs per square foot. These take longer to be effective but can be a better long-term option. Some excellent options are:

• Milky spore 
• Nematodes

Milky spores are quite useful in killing Japanese beetle larvae. The downside? It’s not as effective in cold climates and is typically recommended for use in USDA zones 7-10. Results using milky spore? Typically visible within one to three weeks. 

Nematodes are worms that seek out grubs and release toxins to kill them. They’re microscopic and require moisture and shade to thrive. Results using nematodes? Typically visible within two to four weeks.

How to prevent grubs

If you have a grub infestation, the bad news is that you may be in for quite the battle. Grubs tend to heavily infest a region for about five to 10 years, so you may be busy for several seasons.

To stay on top of the situation, we recommend the following:

• Use a natural grub control method such as milky spore or nematodes (mentioned above)
• Apply preventative pesticides containing thiamethoxam, clothianidin, and imidacloprid in June. Local regulations may restrict earlier use to protect pollinators and other non-target organisms
• Make sure your lawn isn’t soaked, as this creates an attractive environment for female beetles
• Keep your lawn healthy by fertilizing, aerating, dethatching, and cutting your grass correctly

Mole crickets

Preferred grass type: Bahiagrass and Bermudagrass

Mole crickets are unpleasant, winged bugs that dig tunnels under lawns. They have powerful front legs that help with burrowing and a cylindrical body covered in fine hairs. Mole crickets are tan or brown in color and reach between 1 and 2 inches long in adulthood. Due to their color, they can easily blend into the background and simulate soil.

Mole crickets eat grass roots and leaves and are active between February and June and September and October. Since they’re nocturnal insects, they spend daylight hours in their (preferably damp) burrows. They typically feed on insects, decaying plant matter, and plant and grassroots.

Signs of a mole cricket problem

Mole crickets can leave your yard looking like a mess. Watch out for signs such as: 

• Dehydrated grass
• Irregular patches of brown grass
• Root rot
• Grass that can be pulled up easily from the ground
• Tunneling, which causes long mounds of dirt to stripe your lawn

How to eliminate mole crickets

For a natural method, release mole cricket-killing nematodes into your lawn to infect and kill the pests by contact. 

In the spring, you can use mole cricket baits or insecticides that include the following chemicals:

• Clothianidin
• Imidacloprid
• Bifenthrin
• Beta cyfluthrin
• Permethrin
• Trichlorfon

How to prevent mole crickets

Here are some good ways to prevent mole crickets from taking over your yard: 

• Keeping your lawn healthy (this includes proper watering, fertilization, aeration, and dethatching)
• Mowing according to your grass type
• Avoiding overwatering to discourage populations attracted to very wet soil
• Applying long-term residual insecticides, including imidacloprid or synthetic pyrethroid

Sod webworms

Preferred grass type: Buffalograss, Zoysiagrass, fescues, bentgrass, and bluegrass

Sod webworms are the larvae stage of small, close-winged moths that are green or brown, have dark spots, and boast brown heads. They’re usually around an inch long and have cylindrical, smooth bodies. 

These insects are named after the silky tunnels they create on the surface of lawns, golf courses, and other turfgrass areas. Sod webworms attack grass leaves and stems and tend to pop up three times throughout the year:

• First generation – May to June
• Second generation – July to August
• Third generation – September

Sod webworms typically infest grass species such as Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, Bermuda grass, and ryegrass. They’re found in various regions throughout the country, and the severity of the infestations largely depends on the climate. Warmer temperatures and humidity can lead to larger populations, and areas with mild winters may encourage reproduction the entire year.

Signs of a sod webworm problem

Sod webworm damage can look a lot like drought stress or dormant grass. Common signs include:

• Brown patches of dead grass
• Shorter-than-usual grass
• Traces of silk webbing
• Minuscule green-colored pellets (webworm feces)
• Scalped grass

How to eliminate sod webworms

The best way to get rid of sod webworms is to use nematodes (specifically Steinerenema). For added biological control, you also might consider introducing some natural enemies into your yard, such as predatory beetles and parasitic wasps.

Pesticides that target sod webworms are non-selective, which means they also target beneficial insects. Avoid using them unless you find 15 or more sod webworms per square yard. Then, try using an insecticide containing bifenthrin. This pesticide has broad spectrum control, can quickly eliminate pest populations, and provides longer continued protection than other types.

How to prevent sod webworms

To effectively prevent sod webworms from tearing up your lawn, try any or all of the following:

• Aerate your lawn periodically to improve soil structure and reduce thatch, thus discouraging sod webworms on your property.
• Water your lawn properly and consistently; deep, infrequent watering benefits your lawn more than frequent, shallow watering. Avoid overwatering, as an overly moist environment is attractive to sod webworms.
• Mow the lawn regularly, and maintain a proper height for your grass type.
• Avoid excessive fertilization that will make grass extremely lush and attractive to sod webworms. Instead, follow recommended application rates.
• Deeply rake your lawn to disrupt silk webs and facilitate detection, as well as to remove debris, leaves, and organic matter that can serve as hiding spots.
• Use preventative pesticides, but apply them responsibly and consider alternative methods first before resorting to chemical treatments.

Spittlebugs

Preferred grass type: Largely Bermudagrass

Spittlebugs get their name from the foamy spit they excrete all over plants. They’re sometimes referred to as froghoppers because they can jump great distances. The spittle insulates spittlebug nymphs from extreme temperatures and protects spittlebugs from predators. 

Spittlebugs are related to aphids and are typically gray or brown-colored. They’re found in grasslands, meadows, gardens, and lawns worldwide and can adapt to various environments. They feed on grasses, woody plants, and crops. 

Signs of a spittlebug problem

Spittlebugs are very common and aren’t really a threat to your garden — just to your peace of mind if you find them (and their spittle) gross. 

In April and May, check your plants for spittlebug foam every two weeks. Look for:

• Frothy bubbles on your yard or garden plants
• Sticky plant leaves and stems
• Grass or plant yellowing, wilting, and spotting

How to eliminate spittlebugs

Spittlebugs don’t need to be managed by chemical pesticides. They don’t stay on one plant for a significant amount of time and therefore cause little damage. Their nymphs are also protected from pesticides in the spittle foam. 

If they bother you, you can:

• Remove spittlebugs by hand and drown them in a bucket of soapy water
• Spray spittlebugs off your plants with a hose

How to prevent spittlebugs

Spittlebugs are unfortunately found across the continental United States, so you may run across them at any time. To prevent them from infesting your vegetable garden and lawn, keep your yard free of weeds, as they encourage spittlebugs to excrete their foamy spittle all over your yard.

Ticks

Preferred grass type/vegetation/environment: Tall grass, dense vegetation, and humid environments

Ticks are minuscule pests that are known to feed on blood and transmit diseases. They have tiny, flat, oval-shaped bodies and eight legs. After feeding, ticks can grow as much as ½ inch.

Ticks can spread Lyme disease, tularemia, and Rocky Mountain spotted fever, among other illnesses. In humans, these diseases can wreak havoc on the body and lead to lifelong health problems.

Common species of ticks include:

• American dog tick
• Deer tick
• Brown dog tick
• Gulf Coast tick
• Lone Star tick
• Rocky Mountain wood tick

Signs of a tick problem

Because ticks are so tiny, you probably won’t notice them in your yard until you find one on yourself or your pet. Ticks tend to hide around:

• Tall grass
• Wooded areas
• Tall bushes
• Thick or dense bushes
• Piles of firewood
• Plant debris

If you live in the Northeast or Midwest and regularly spend time outside, always check carefully under your arms, inside and behind your ears, the back of your knees, and around body hair. If you find one, use tweezers to remove it. See a doctor if a rash, fever, or other symptoms develop.

How to eliminate ticks

Ticks are nearly impossible to completely eradicate from your yard. You can try natural methods to keep them away, like sprinkling cedar oil or diluted eucalyptus oil around your yard. 

Using pesticides isn’t generally recommended, but they can reduce large tick populations. Purchase an acaricide (tick pesticide) and follow the instructions for the best results. 

How to prevent ticks

Ticks tend to hang out in shrubs, weeds, piles of leaves, and tall grass. They travel around by hitching rides on pets or other pests like mice and rats. 

Prevent ticks in your yard by:

• Keeping the yard clear of leaves, litter, and debris
• Mowing your lawn regularly
• Keeping chopped wood in neat, dry stacks
• Removing tall grass
• Putting a barrier between your yard and wooded areas or tall grass using gravel or wood chips
• Putting a fence around your yard to keep out deer, stray dogs, raccoons, and other wildlife
• Installing outdoor hangout spots (playgrounds, decks, patios) far from the edge of your yard

FAQ about common spring lawn pests

How can I repair my lawn after pest control?

If you’ve taken lawn pests on and won, your lawn may look a little rough. To repair any damage, follow these steps:

• Rake dead patches of grass
• Mow to stimulate grass growth
• Aerate if possible
• Overseed your lawn
• Water your lawn

What bugs pose no threat to my lawn?

Bugs might bug you out, and that’s OK. It’s good to be aware of the bugs that are gardener-friendly and prey on common lawn pests, so you don’t try to remove them from your backyard.  

Some beneficial insects include:

• Ladybugs
• Praying mantises
• Bees
• Ground beetles
• Butterflies
• Spiders

How can I invite pollinators to my yard?

Bees and butterflies can be fun to watch, but they’re also really good for the environment. Inviting pollinators to your backyard will help your garden thrive and keep these important insects well-fed and protected. 

Invite pollinators to your yard by:

• Planting bee-friendly plants
• Planting butterfly-friendly plants
• Planting native plants
• Providing shelter and watering stations

Get top-notch pro help today

Pests are every homeowner’s nightmare. If you’re at your wit’s end trying to get lawn pests under control, turn to a local pro in your vicinity for expert help.

They can inspect your property, identify problem pests, and get you matched with a treatment that meets your particular needs. Leave your worries to the pest control pros and enjoy a vibrant, pest-free haven long-term.

Main Photo Credit: MabelAmber | Pixabay