Mulch adds color, texture, and moisture to your garden, but only if it stays put. To keep it in place, try edging your beds, creating mulch trenches, applying stabilizers, or using mulch netting.
Together, these methods lock the mulch in place and keep it from spilling onto your lawn or blowing away in heavy winds. When soil is exposed, it falls prey to erosion, weeds, and water loss.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through tips for keeping your mulch in place.
Install proper edging
Sturdy edging keeps mulch from spilling onto your lawn or sidewalk and gives your beds a sharp, polished look. The type you choose can impact both performance and style, so I have laid out some options worth looking into:
- Metal edging (steel or aluminum): Provides clean lines and long-term hold. It’s hammered in about 4 inches deep and holds up well against erosion and shifting.
- Plastic edging: Flexible and affordable, but not as long-lasting. Install at least 3 to 4 inches into the soil, and watch out for warping or lifting over time.
- Stone or brick edging: Heavy-duty and classy. Set the bricks or stones 2 to 3 inches deep and stack them higher if needed. It’s great for slopes where mulch usually migrates.
- Wood edging (like landscape timbers): Natural-looking and able to blend with rustic settings, but it can rot over time. Anchor it 3 to 6 inches deep for staying power.
Be extra gentle near trees. “For gardeners who choose to install edging, materials like stone or steel may provide long-term durability, but care must be taken to avoid disturbing roots and compacting the soil,” warns Spencer Campbell, plant clinic manager at The Morton Arboretum. Damaging surface roots can slow down growth and cause stress.
If your area is prone to heavy rain, opt for deep 6-inch edging to really lock the mulch in.
Create a mulch trench
A mulch trench keeps mulch from spilling onto your lawn and grass roots from creeping into your garden beds. “It can be a low-cost alternative to hard edging and is effective on gentle slopes,” Campbell says.
Here’s how to create a mulch trench:
- Mark the edge of the garden bed with a rope.
- Use a shovel to dig a trench about 4 to 6 inches deep and 6 to 8 inches wide, angling the inside wall slightly so it hugs the mulch.
- Dig around the full perimeter of your mulched area, whether it’s a tree ring, flower bed, or pathway border.
- Press the loose soil firmly along the trench’s outer edge to keep the barrier strong.
- Add crushed stone or river rock to the trench for contrast and texture.
Every spring and fall, re-cut the edge to prevent grass from creeping in. After heavy rain, check for erosion or mulch washout, and reshape the trench again if you have to.
Use heavier mulch
Not all mulch is created equal. Some types are feather-light and scatter with the first strong breeze, while others settle in and stay where you put them. For mulch that holds its ground, I suggest considering heavier options like these:
| Mulch type | Best for | Why it stays put |
| Shredded hardwood bark | Slopes, windy areas, exposed beds | Heavy texture, interlocks and mats together naturally |
| Large pine bark nuggets | Decorative beds, patios | Large, heavy chunks resist wind and water movement |
| Chunky wood chips | Woodland gardens, large beds, pathways | Large chunks break down slowly and don’t float away |
| Rubber mulch | Play areas, high-traffic zones | Made from shredded recycled rubber, extremely heavy and durable |
The mulch should feel heavy in your hand and not crumble easily — a good sign it won’t blow away. It might cost more upfront, but it lasts longer than lighter options like straw or coco coir.
Read related:
- How Often Should You Replace Mulch?
- What are the Different Types of Mulch?
- The Pros and Cons of Rubber Mulch
- How to Mulch
- How to Choose the Right Colored Mulch
Remove landscape fabric and plastic sheeting
When it comes to mulch, landscape fabric and plastic sheeting can work against you. They prevent water and nutrients from reaching your soil, which can cause plant stress. Mulch should help the soil breathe, not suffocate it.
Once mulch starts to break down, it sits on top loose and crumbly, so wind, rain, or even your footsteps can shift it around. This happens because there’s nothing to anchor it to the ground.
A better solution is to lay mulch directly on the soil. It naturally grips better, and rainwater can soak in instead of bouncing off. If you want to add something beneath the mulch, use cardboard or newspaper.
And don’t stress about doing it all at once. Start with a small area and gradually move to other parts as time allows.
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Keep mulch moist
Dry mulch is brittle and easily scattered. Damp mulch stays firmly in place and also boosts your plants’ health. To keep yours perfectly moist, water this way:
- Apply the mulch in the early morning or evening when humidity is higher.
- During the first two weeks after application, water lightly every day or every other day. Apply ¼ to ½ inch of water each time to help it settle and form a cohesive barrier. Water deeply enough to reach the soil underneath. To check, move the mulch aside and stick your finger in the soil. It should feel moist about 2 to 3 inches down.
- In extremely hot climates, water 2 to 3 times a week, depending on humidity and temperature. Aim for ½ to 1 inch per session.
Think about setting up drip irrigation to give your mulch and plants what they need. It minimizes evaporation, delivers water right to the roots, and keeps mulch moist without water waste. Soaker hoses and smart irrigation systems also keep every drop where it counts.
Read related:
- Types of Irrigation
- What is Drip Irrigation?
- How Much Does Drip Irrigation Cost in 2025?
- Benefits of Drip Irrigation
- How to Install an In-Ground Lawn Sprinkler System
- How to Create a DIY Sprinkler System For Your Lawn
Apply mulch stabilizers
Mulch stabilizers are sprays that hold mulch together without making it crunchy. They form a flexible layer that shields against wind, rain, and foot traffic. Some even include UV protection to help your mulch keep its color longer.
Campbell says, “Mulch stabilizers are effective but generally designed for use in steep or high-traffic areas where erosion is a concern. In most gardens, stabilizers are unnecessary.” When spread correctly, organic mulch often locks into place without help, especially dense types like hardwood bark.
Still, if your garden has a steep slope, sits in a windy spot, or sees a lot of rain and runoff, a mulch stabilizer can help. Here are a few things to know before you get started:
- Stabilizers are safe for plants when applied according to the label instructions.
- They dry clear, so you won’t even notice them. However, I know from personal experience that some darken the mulch as they set it, so I recommend testing a small area first.
- They last around 9 to 12 months before needing reapplication, depending on the climate.
- For even results, apply the stabilizer when your mulch is dry. Give it a light coat to cover the mulch without making it soggy, or you may end up with clumps.
Use mulch netting or an erosion control blanket
If you have a garden with a steep slope or a hillside exposed to the elements, mulch netting or erosion control blankets can keep mulch from moving.
Mulch netting is a loose, flexible mesh you lay over mulch to hold it in place. Natural types, such as coco coir, jute, or straw, break down within 6 to 12 months, while synthetic ones last longer but should be removed at the end of the season to avoid soil or plant damage. They can wrap around roots and settle deep into the soil, making it difficult to remove them.
Erosion control blankets are similar but tend to be thicker and sturdier. According to experts at the University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point, “Erosion control blankets should consist of a uniform web of interlocking fibers with a net backing. The blanket should be of uniform thickness, with the material fibers being evenly distributed over the area of the blanket.”
If you want a low-maintenance garden, choose natural or biodegradable options that support your soil while keeping mulch stable. Campbell says the label should clearly indicate they’re for “in-ground decomposition.”
Maintain proper mulch depth
More mulch isn’t always better. Pile it too high, and it becomes a slippery mess. Too little, and it blows away. Stick with these mulch depths:
| Landscape | Recommended mulch depth |
| Trees and shrubs | 3 to 4 inches |
| Flower beds | 2 to 3 inches |
| Vegetable gardens | 1 to 2 inches |
| Slopes | 1 to 2 inches |
After the first few weeks of application, check the mulch depth. Organic mulch settles as it absorbs moisture and breaks down, so laying down 3 inches might leave you with just 2. Also, check the depth after any big storm or strong winds. Mulch can blow away, and you might lose ½ inch without realizing it.
Read related: How Deep Should Mulch Be?
Plant strategically
The right plants in the right spots can help anchor mulch and reduce displacement naturally. These planting techniques can help keep your mulch in place:
- Use low-growing groundcovers: Creeping thyme, ivy, and sedum can weave through mulch and pin it down with their dense root systems. Plant them about 6 inches apart to create a dense mat that effectively anchors your mulch.
- Plant densely: This forms a shield over your mulch. Tall perennials or dense shrubs can act as a natural border that keeps mulch from sliding out of place. In areas prone to heavy erosion, group plants as close as possible to create a living mulch net.
- Plant in layers: As you landscape, layer your plants so that smaller ones fill in the gaps between larger ones. This creates dense, multi-level coverage that protects the mulch beneath and stabilizes it against the elements.
- Try terracing: Create little steps or shelves on the slope to keep the mulch and soil in place. This also allows plants to grow better because the soil doesn’t get washed away. Add stone or wood barriers along the edges of each section, level it, and plant deep-rooted plants to secure the mulch even better.
A local pro can lend a hand
Keeping mulch in place helps your soil stay healthy, your plants stay hydrated, and your garden look good. A few smart tricks, like edging, trenching, or using stabilizers, can make a huge difference.
But if you’re not feeling up to all the digging and DIY, call a Lawn Love gardening pro to get the job done without the hassle.
Lawn Love pros can also mow your grass when it’s tall, fertilize, aerate, and control weeds. Hire a pro through Lawn Love today to get the job done right at a price you love.
Main Image: Use edging to help keep your mulch in place. Photo Credit: khmelev / Adobe Stock
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