How to Remove Shrubs: The Best Way to Pull Out Bushes

How to Remove Shrubs: The Best Way to Pull Out Bushes

Whether you need to clear out a dead bush or just want to refresh your landscaping, removing an old shrub usually takes just a shovel, a mattock, and roughly 1 to 3 hours of work. 

The best way to pull a bush out involves cutting back the branches, digging a trench to expose the roots, severing the root system, and pulling the entire plant out of the ground.

For large-scale landscaping shrub removal or if you’d rather skip the heavy lifting, Lawn Love’s local yard cleanup pros can handle removal, hauling, and site prep.

Key takeaways
• Call 811 before you dig—every 9 minutes in the U.S., an underground utility line is damaged because someone didn’t make this call.
• Cut branches back first to expose the root ball, then dig and sever roots with a mattock.
• Professional removal costs $40 to over $300 per bush. DIY is free with your own tools, or over $387 if you buy and rent equipment
• Requires medium to advanced expertise and roughly 1 to 3 hours of labor.

Step 1. Call 811 before you dig

Hitting a buried utility line will completely ruin your landscaping project. Always call the 811 hotline several business days before you insert a shovel into the soil. Professional locators visit your property to mark the exact locations of buried pipes.

Leave gates unlocked and pets inside on the day locators visit.

Note: Calling 811 before you dig is free for homeowners. Skipping it is the biggest mistake you can make. The 2023 DIRT Report found that failing to call 811 caused more than 26% of all underground utility damage incidents nationwide.

Read more: Yard Work Safety Tips: How to Prevent Injuries While Landscaping 

Step 2. Gather your tools for removing bushes

You won’t need everything on this list—the right tools depend on your shrub’s size. Make sure all cutting tools are sharp before you start:

Tools you may need:

  • Chainsaw, pruning saw, or reciprocating saw (chainsaw rental cost $65–$90 per day)
  • Electric hedge trimmer (rental cost $30–$40 per day)
  • Bypass loppers or hand pruning shears
  • Shovel (trenching shovel works best)
  • Mattock (rental cost $5–$15 per day)
  • High-pressure water wand (optional)
  • Topsoil (to fill the hole) 
  • Plastic tarp (optional)

Protective gear:

  • Eye and ear protection
  • Hard hat and face screen
  • Chainsaw chaps (if using a chainsaw)
  • Work gloves
  • Steel-toe boots
  • Long pants and sleeves — nothing loose near power tools

Read more: Must-Have Pruning Tools for Trimming Bushes, Trees, and Plants 

Step 3. Cut the branches

Gloved hand using red pruning shears to cut a branch on a shrub in early spring
Pruning a shrub branch with secateurs in early spring. Photo Credit: Anna / Adobe Stock

You must cut the outer branches first to gain clear access to the hidden root ball. This step prevents painful scratches while you dig the surrounding soil.

Time-saving trick: Lay tarps on all sides of the bush before you start. The tarps catch the falling branches as you cut. You can then roll up the tarps and haul them straight to a compost pile.

For small to medium shrubs:

  • Use electric hedge trimmers to shave off the outer foliage until the interior woody stems appear.
  • Switch to bypass loppers to snip away the thin interior branches.

For large shrubs:

  • Remove a few outer branches close to the main stem to open a line of sight into the center.
  • Cut the thick interior wood from the inside out using a sharp reciprocating saw or chainsaw.
  • Ask a helper to drag the severed branches to a waste pile while you continue cutting, keeping your workspace clear.

Pro tip: Leon Miller, a land-clearing specialist and owner of BrushTamer in Plymouth, IN, advises, “To reach the base of a massive bush, use a Husqvarna 545 Mark II to cut a wide V notch into the side for a clear workspace.”

Important for all shrub sizes: Always leave 2-3 feet of the main trunk intact above the ground. You will need this tall central stump to act as a sturdy pulling lever when extracting the root mass later.

Read more: How to Trim Tall and Overgrown Bushes 

Step 4. Dig around the root ball

Loosen the shrub by cutting the roots around the outside first. Take your time and work in a full circle before trying to pull anything out. 

Miller explains his favorite method to loosen the plant. “I use a high-pressure water wand to blast soil away from the root structure first, exposing the anchor roots clearly before cutting.” 

Once those are clean, he says, even a 10-year-old bush surrenders easily without renting heavy machinery.

What to do:

  • Use a shovel to dig around the entire shrub.
  • Keep digging until you hit the main roots.
  • Switch to a mattock and cut the lateral roots around the sides.
  • Pull on the stump now and then to check whether the shrub is starting to move.
  • If the root ball will not budge, keep alternating between digging, cutting, and pulling.

Pro tip: For stubborn roots, Miller uses “a Fiskars Pro Digging Shovel to cut a vertical circle twice the diameter of the trunk, letting the weight of the tool do the work rather than your back.”

Read more: How to Remove a Tree Stump 

Step 5. Pull out the shrub

Once the side roots are loose, you can remove the shrub by cutting the deep root underneath. This step also helps stop future regrowth from stubborn or invasive shrubs.

“Never pull a bush with a pickup truck because the kinetic energy from a snapping strap can be lethal,” Miller says. Instead, he recommends using a Hi-Lift Jack as a vertical hoist. 

Keep an eye out for hidden hazards, too—Miller warns to watch for “old woven wire fencing grown into the trunk that can snap and whip back like a cable.”

Here’s what to do: 

  • Tip the loosened stump to one side.
  • Find the taproot, which is the thick root growing straight down.
  • Chop through the taproot with your mattock or shovel.
  • Pull the shrub and root ball out of the hole.
  • Dig through the dirt one last time to pull out any leftover large roots before filling the hole.

Pro tip: For small trunks (1 to 3 inches thick), use an ATV or lawn tractor. To prevent slipping, Miller suggests attaching a Brush Grubber BG-01, which bites securely into the wood. 

However, if the shrub is massive and deeply rooted, rent a compact utility loader and wrap a heavy-duty chain around the base instead.

Step 6. Deal with regrowth

What happens to the roots left behind? Most non-invasive shrubs will safely rot away over several years, though leaving them can make planting new bushes a hassle.

Invasive species, however, require extra attention. For instance, “Multiflora rose and autumn olive are the worst offenders in the Midwest. Leave a thumb-sized root behind and they’re back within a season,” Miller says. The only way to guarantee they’re gone is a full root trace excavation.

Not sure if a leftover root is still alive? Miller suggests scratching the bark. “If you see green cambium or ‘bleeding’ sap, it requires an application of herbicide, like Tordon RTU, to stop the growth,” he says.

Step 7. Fill the hole (or prep for a new plant)

Shovel adding dark soil into a planting hole dug in a green lawn with standing water at the bottom
Adding soil to a planting hole in a lawn. Photo Credit: Roman Milert / Adobe Stock

Once the shrub is out, you need to deal with the empty crater. How you fill it depends on your next steps.

If you are just filling the hole:

“Most homeowners just dump the original soil back in loose, which is a mistake,” Miller warns. Here is his recommended method:

  • Work in layers; add the soil back in 4-inch sections.
  • Thoroughly soak each layer with water before adding the next one.
  • Finish with a slight mound of topsoil. Because the soil will naturally settle and sink over time, this extra height ensures your yard stays perfectly flat once it does.

If you are planting a new shrub:

  • Remove all remaining roots so they don’t interfere with your new plant.
  • Dig the hole 2 to 5 times wider than the new root ball, but keep it only about as deep as the root ball is tall.
  • To give your new shrub a healthy start, Miller advises heavily aerating the hole.
  • He also suggests mixing in compost, like Coast of Maine Quoddy Blend, “to restore the soil health depleted by the previous plant’s root system.”

Read more:

How much does it cost to remove shrubs?

Hiring a landscaper for shrub removal typically ranges from $40 for a small bush to over $300 for an extra-large one. Difficult access or haul-away fees can push the final price even higher.

If you go the DIY route, removing a bush is essentially free if you already own the gear. However, if you’re starting from scratch, expect to invest your time plus about $387 for basic equipment, including protective gear, a cordless hedge trimmer, and shovels.

Keep in mind that renting any extra tools or machinery—like a mattock for $5 to $15—will add to the DIY total cost.

For a full breakdown, see How Much Does Shrub and Bush Removal Cost in 2026?

Pro tip: Borrow tools from a friend or local tool-lending library before buying.

Read more: 

FAQs

What is the best time of year to remove shrubs?

Fall or spring is best in climates with hot summers and hard freezes—the ground isn’t frozen, and there’s no risk of heat exhaustion. In mild climates, winter is ideal: fallen foliage lets you see the branch structure clearly, making cuts faster and cleaner.

Read more: When to Trim Bushes and Trees 

How deep are shrub roots?

While most roots only go down 1 to 2 feet, they can spread outward up to 3.5 times the plant’s width. That’s why working your shovel around the entire perimeter, rather than just digging straight down, is the key to an easy removal.

Can you pull out a bush without a truck?

Yes. In fact, experts strictly warn against using a pickup truck, because snapping straps can be lethal. Instead, use a shovel, mattock, or a jack for lifting. See Step 5 above to do it safely.

Can you transplant a full-grown bush?

Yes, but it gets much harder the larger the bush is. To do it right, dig a wide circle past the outer branches to save the main root ball. Replant the bush immediately at the exact same depth it originally grew.

Read more:
How Long Do Shrubs Last? 
How to Transplant a Tree 

Hire a local pro for landscaping shrub removal

If wrestling with roots sounds like more work than your weekend allows, Lawn Love’s local yard cleanup pros make it easy. They can remove bushes, haul everything away, and prep the area for whatever comes next. Get a free instant quote today.

Main Image: A gardener trims tangled branches on a shrub to promote healthy growth. Photo Credit: qunica.com / Adobe Stock

Luminita Toma

Luminita Toma is a nature-loving writer who simply adores pretty flowers and lawns. After plenty of research and writing on lawn care and gardening, she's got a keen eye for plants and their maintenance. When she's got some spare time, there's nothing she enjoys more than chilling with her friends, hitting the theatre, or traveling.