How to Transplant a Tree Without Killing It

Is a tree in your yard stuck in a spot that isn’t doing it justice? Whether the soil is poor or you’ve rethought your layout, learning how to transplant a tree is simpler than you might think.

With the right timing and a little patience, you can move an established tree to a better home without killing it. This guide covers when to do it and walks you through each step of the process.

And if the tree turns out to be too big or too heavy to move safely, you can always get a free estimate from Lawn Love’s local pros.

Best time to transplant a tree

Move a tree during its dormant season, when it is not actively growing and can handle the stress more easily. The two best windows are fall, after the leaves drop but before the ground freezes, and early spring, before new buds break.

Season	Window	Why it works
Fall	After the leaves drop, before the ground freezes	Roots settle over winter, so the tree is ready to grow in spring
Spring	Early spring, before buds break	Good for colder regions where the ground freezes hard

Fall transplanting lets the roots settle over winter so the tree is ready to grow when spring arrives. Spring transplanting works well in colder regions where the ground freezes hard. Either way, root-prune a season ahead to help the tree bounce back.

How to transplant a tree in 4 steps

Transplanting a tree comes down to 4 steps: prune the roots ahead of time, prep the new planting site, prep the tree for the move, and replant it. Take your time with each one to keep the root ball intact and the tree healthy.

Step 1: Prune the roots

Tools you’ll need: twine, flat spade, shovel, pruning shears, loppers, mulch

First, prune your tree’s roots months before you actually transplant it. Root pruning encourages the growth of feeder roots, the fibrous roots that absorb the most nutrients and water.

Pruning the roots minimizes the risk of transplant shock once the tree is in its new location. The roots within the pruned area grow into a new, strong, confined root system that is ideal for transplanting.

For best results, prune tree roots in late fall or early spring. Prune in spring to transplant in fall, and in fall to transplant in spring. Fall pruning lets the feeder roots grow over winter without also supporting new top growth.

Water the base of the tree and its roots well the day before pruning with either a drip system or a hose set to low flow. This helps the soil stick to the roots and makes digging much easier.

Determine how much of the roots to prune. A good rule of thumb for root ball size is that for every inch of trunk, the root ball should be pruned to 1 foot in diameter, or 6 inches out from the trunk in each direction.

For large trees with trunks more than 2 or 3 inches in diameter, consider reaching out to a tree service, since the tree may be too heavy and fragile to move on your own.

Dig a trench 6 to 12 inches from the trunk, depending on how big your root ball should be. Dig it about 2 feet deep and 1 foot wide.

First, make sure there are no underground utilities that could get damaged, and use twine to tie back any low-hanging branches in your way. Push the spade into the soil with enough force to sever the roots, continuing all the way around the tree.

Keep your topsoil and subsoil separate as you place both off to the side.

Refill the trench with soil high in organic matter, such as a mix of two parts topsoil and one part compost.

Finally, add a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch on top of the soil to retain moisture and prevent cold damage. Keep the mulch from touching the trunk or any stems.

Step 2: Prep the new site

Tools you’ll need: shovel, hose

Choose your ideal new site, making sure the tree and its root system will have enough space to grow, along with the right soil, light, and water conditions. Picture the established tree and what that species will need.

Dig a new hole at your chosen site that is three times as wide as the root ball and the same depth. If you dig too deep, the roots can rot. Again, keep the topsoil and subsoil separate.

Water the hole well to help hold the root ball together during transplanting.

Step 3: Prep the tree to transplant

Tools you’ll need: shovel, sharp spade, pruning shears, loppers

Keep your tree well-watered between root pruning and transplanting. Water the soil around the entire circle of your trench one day before transplanting.

Dig around your tree with a sharp spade about 6 inches out from the pruned roots, making sure to include all the new feeder roots. Get fully under the root ball by digging at least 1 to 2 feet down.

Cut any old roots missed during the earlier pruning with pruning shears or loppers.

Dig around and under the root ball to sever any remaining roots underneath. Do this carefully to keep the root ball intact, then gently rock it back and forth to ease it loose.

Step 4: Transplant the tree

Tools you’ll need: shovel, natural burlap, twine, mulch, hose

Use burlap to lift out your tree. Never lift by the trunk. Place a sheet of burlap in the hole and shimmy it under the roots. It should be big enough to wrap around the entire root ball.

Move your tree to its new location by securing the burlap with twine and carrying it. For a heavy tree, set the root ball on a tarp and drag it, which protects the roots and keeps the soil intact.

Place your tree in the prepped hole, making sure the base of the trunk is level with the ground. Once it is secure, remove the burlap and twine.

Fill in the soil, placing the subsoil on the bottom and the topsoil over it. Water thoroughly around the tree and out to the edge of the hole.

Finally, add 2 to 4 inches of mulch around the base, keeping it off the trunk.

“I really recommend putting down a 2-to-4-inch layer of wood chips over the dirt to lock in that moisture, but make sure you pull it back so it doesn’t actually touch the bark, because the trunk will trap moisture and start to rot,” says Mike Marlow, co-founder and owner of Heroes Lawn Care in Omaha, Nebraska.

Read more:

• Must-Have Pruning Tools for Trimming Bushes, Trees, and Plants

• How to Mulch Around Trees

How big a tree can you transplant

The size of the tree decides whether this is a weekend project or a job for a pro. A small tree, one with a trunk about 2 inches thick or less measured near the base, is manageable for most homeowners. Home gardeners can usually transplant small trees under that size themselves. Anything larger gets heavy and fragile fast.

Root balls are dense and hard to move without damaging the roots, so know your limits. If the tree is too big to lift safely, it is worth bringing in a professional with the right equipment.

Read more:

• 5 Reasons to Hire a Certified Arborist

How to avoid transplant shock

Transplant shock happens when a tree struggles to draw enough water through its reduced root system. You can lower the risk by root-pruning ahead of time, keeping as much of the root ball as possible, and watering well before and after the move.

Watch for wilting, off-color leaves, or leaf drop in the weeks after transplanting. Keep the soil consistently moist, add a layer of mulch, and give the tree time. Recovery takes time, often about a year for every inch of trunk diameter.

Read more:

• How to Take Care of Trees During a Drought

FAQs

Get extra hands to help

Now that you know the steps for transplanting a tree, you can get out there and shape the yard you want. And remember, not everything has to be a solo project.

If the job feels too big or your tree is just too heavy, reach out to one of Lawn Love’s local lawn care pros for a hand.

Main photo credit: Ozgur Coskun | Shutterstock