Massachusetts is the beautiful Bay State where cool-season grasses thrive. To help you remember the right time to mow, fertilize, or perform other lawn care tasks, we bring you a month-by-month lawn care calendar for Massachusetts.
Month-by-month Massachusetts lawn care
*Hover over or tap each icon to read the task.
Spring: Late March to late June
When spring arrives, it is time to get your lawn started for the new year. Sharpen your mower’s blades, clean up the debris, apply pre-emergent weed control, dethatch (or aerate), and fertilize.
Late March: Sharpen the mower blades
For most of Massachusetts, late March is still too early to rake and mow. While waiting for the snow to melt away and temperatures to warm up, tend to your lawn equipment before anything. Sharpen the mower blades to guarantee clean cuts that won’t damage your grass in the first mow of the year.
Pro Tip: See our guide on How to Sharpen Lawn Mower Blades in 9 Steps.
April: Clean up debris
Spring lawn care in Massachusetts starts with a good clean-up. When the snow has melted away and the ground gets warmer, it is the right time to rake the lawn. Twigs, dead plants or grass, leaves, and moss that might have accumulated under the snow — all this debris can make your lawn more susceptible to diseases and pests.
April: The first mow of the year
April is generally the best time to do the first mow of the year in Massachusetts. Wait until the snow is completely gone and the grass is dry. When mowing your lawn, make sure to follow the 1/3 rule: Never cut more than 1/3 of the leaf’s canopy in one mow. So if your lawn is 3 inches long, the lowest you can mow is at 2 inches.
But what if your lawn grew excessively high? In this case, instead of fixing it in one mow, you will gradually reduce its length to the desired height by mowing regularly (following the 1/3 rule).
Pro Tip: The recommended mowing height for Massachusetts lawns is 1.5 to 3 inches. See the exact height for each grass species in the following table:
| Grass species | Recommended cutting height | Mowing frequency |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 1.5 to 3 inches | Low to Medium |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5 to 3 inches | High |
| Fine fescues | 1.5 to 3 inches | Low |
| Tall Fescue | 1.5 to 3 inches | Medium |
Read more mowing tips in our article: How to Mow a Lawn the Right Way.
Late April to early May: Apply pre-emergent weed control
To prevent annual summer weeds from sprouting on your turf, apply a pre-emergent herbicide in late April or early May (which is typically about 2 weeks before the weed seeds start to germinate). The soil temperatures should reach 55 F for four to five consecutive days.
When you apply and water-in a pre-emergent herbicide, the substance forms a “barrier” in the soil that will prevent these weeds from appearing on your lawn. Avoid disturbing the soil up to 2 weeks after applying pre-emergent herbicides.
Pro Tip: To guarantee a precise application, visit our article: When and How to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides.
May: Manage lawn diseases
As the spring brings warmer temperatures, lawn diseases begin to show up. As soon as they appear, it is important to manage lawn diseases before they spread, causing more extensive damage to your lawn. Good cultural practices are usually enough to treat lawn diseases:
- Select a resistant turfgrass cultivar. Some tall fescue and perennial ryegrass cultivars come with endophytes, a beneficial fungi that is toxic to some lawn insects. Endophytes help prevent insect damage, which can weaken your grass and leave it susceptible to disease.
- Fertilize appropriately. Avoid over-fertilizing or not fertilizing enough by conducting a soil test. (See below for more information.)
- Irrigate accordingly. Avoid overwatering your lawn (see next section), as this also can lead to disease development.
- Mow high. Another key factor that can cause disease is mowing your lawn too short, which stresses the lawn.
- Control thatch. Soil compaction is favorable to the appearance of lawn diseases, so dethatch or aerate your lawn in spring or in the fall, when the thatch layer reaches 1/2 inch (see section below).
Before using any fungicide, however, correctly identify which disease you are dealing with. You can even send a soil sample to the Plant Diagnostics Laboratory of the University of Massachusetts.
May: Water appropriately
Because Massachusetts usually has rainy springs, it might not be necessary to water your lawn at all during this season. Irrigating in spring is mainly recommended for new lawns, so be observant. If the grass seems like it is wilting or the soil is dry, you can irrigate in May.
First, perform an easy test to make sure your lawn needs a sip of water: Walk across the grass, and if the grass does not get back up, it most likely needs watering.
Pro Tip: One inch of water per week is usually enough to water your lawn deeply. See more in our article: When and How to Water Your Lawn.
May to June: Dethatch and aerate
May and June are the peak shoot growth months for cool-season turfgrasses in Massachusetts, and therefore the best time to dethatch and aerate your lawn. Aeration and dethatching are best done when your grass can swiftly recover from the procedure, and for that reason, spring (followed by the fall) is the best time to do so in Massachusetts.
But don’t worry, you don’t have to dethatch your lawn yearly, only when the thatch layer reaches 1/2 inch or higher. The type of grass you have on your lawn can also play a role in how often you will need to dethatch and aerate. Kentucky bluegrass lawns, for example, are known to produce more thatch.
Pro Tip: If you’re dealing with weeds, avoid aerating and dethatching after applying pre-emergent weed control. If your lawn suffers from summer weeds, dethatch or aerate in the fall. If your lawn deals with winter annual weeds, the best time to do so is in the spring.
May to June: Fertilize
If you fertilize your lawn twice a year, spring is when the first application should be done. May and June are the months recommended by the University of Massachusetts. When fertilizing in spring, make sure to do a single nitrogen application, using 1 to 1.5 pounds of a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer per 1,000 square feet.
See the recommended rates and application time below according to how many times a year you plan to fertilize:
| Application time | If fertilizing once per year | If fertilizing twice per year |
| Spring (after lawn green-up) | x | Use 1 to 1.5 pounds per 1,000 square feet of a 50-100% slow-release nitrogen fertilizer |
| Late summer to early fall | Use 1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet of a 75-100% slow-release nitrogen fertilizer | Use 1 to 1.5 pounds per 1,000 square feet of a 50-100% slow-release nitrogen fertilizer |
| Total annual nitrogen | 1 – 2 pounds per 1,000 | 2 – 3 pounds per 1,000 |
Pro Tip: All you need to know about fertilizing your lawn is in our guide: Fertilizer 101: How to Fertilize Your Lawn.
June: Control lawn insects
Although the exact timing to control lawn insects may vary according to what pest is munching on your lawn, June is considered a good time to control billbugs, chinch bugs, and grubs. Visit our guides below to learn how to get rid of them:
- How to Get Rid of Billbugs
- How to Get Rid of Chinch Bugs in Your Lawn
- How to Get Rid of Grubs in Your Lawn
Summer: Late June to late September
Summertime is when cool-season grasses enter their dormancy stage. During summer, you have to mow the grass higher and irrigate your turf.
Late June: Mow higher
During this stressful season for cool-season lawns, mow your lawn higher, at 3 inches, to manage heat and drought stress. Mowing higher will promote deep roots, fortify against drought, and shade the soil, which helps cool down its temperature and makes your grass more competitive against weeds.
Pro Tip: Mow your lawn like a pro by following our Lawn Mowing Tips and Tricks.
July and August: Irrigate the lawn
Summer is usually the time to count on your sprinklers to support your lawn. The University of Massachusetts recommends irrigating only when you see the grass wilting. When the leaves fold or roll, it is usually a sign of mild stress, and that’s when you turn on the sprinklers.
Remember to water deeply and infrequently to encourage deeper roots. One inch of water per week is sufficient.
Pro Tip: The best time to water your lawn in hot weather is early in the morning, between 5 a.m. to 9 a.m. That way you won’t lose water from evaporation, but the lawn won’t remain damp, which can lead to diseases.
Late August to late September: Plant seed or overseed the lawn (Best time)
Late summer to early fall is the best time to plant grass seed in Massachusetts, from the third week of August up until the third week of September. The approach recommended by the University of Massachusetts is to plant seeds or overseed your lawn right before the favorable growth conditions of the fall.
If you miss this window, you can also plant in May, during spring. However, spring plantings are not as successful as fall plantings due to weed competition. See our guide to learn How to Plant Grass Seed.
Pro Tip: You can also start your fall fertilization as early as August. More information on that in the next section.
Fall: Late September to late December
Fall lawn care in Massachusetts is a busy season. Fall is the time to overseed, aerate, fertilize, and prepare for winter.
Late September to October: Aerate or dethatch
If you didn’t aerate or dethatch your lawn in the spring, you can also do it in the fall. Late September through October are the second best months to dethatch or aerate in Massachusetts. Fall is the second period of peak shoot growth for cool-season grasses, also making it a great time to relieve some soil compaction.
Pro Tip: Although you can lime your lawn at any time if the ground isn’t frozen, doing so after aeration can improve its effectiveness.
Late September to October: Overseed the lawn (Last chance)
Forgot to overseed in late summer? You can still make up the time in early fall. Up until October, it is still considered a good time to overseed your lawn in Massachusetts. Late summer and fall overseeding are preferred because:
- The soil is warm enough for the seeds to get cozy and germinate (between 55 F and 65 F).
- Overseeding in the fall gives the seeds two to three months to grow before winter comes, depending on when you plant and your location.
- The weed competition is reduced due to the colder air temperatures of the fall.
Pro Tip: Overseeding after dethatching or aerating improves the seed’s contact with the soil, optimizing seed germination.
September to November: Fertilize
If you fertilize your lawn only once a year, fall is the best time to do so. You can fertilize through November. When fertilizing twice per year, do one application in spring and one in fall. When applying fertilizer three times a year, remember that most of the fertilizer should be applied during the fall. (Do one application in spring, one in early fall, and one in late fall.)
Fall is the best time to fertilize in Massachusetts for several reasons:
- It results in better grass blade growth during spring.
- It promotes an earlier spring green-up.
- It helps the lawn recover from summer diseases (and the heat and drought stresses that usually come with summer).
- It is when root growth is at its peak, promoting a strong root system.
October: Control winter annual weeds
Fall is the time to control winter annual weeds by applying pre-emergent herbicides on your established lawn. However, it is important to note that fall applications may not be 100% effective because winter annuals have a long emergence period, and the herbicides might have faded from the soil before the weeds begin to emerge.
If pre-emergent herbicides don’t work on your winter annuals, apply a post-emergent herbicide to control these pesky weeds.
Late October to November: Conduct a soil test
Soil tests are preferably done at the end of the growing season so you’ll have the time to plan ahead for next spring. A soil test will tell you your soil pH and what nutrients are lacking in your soil so you can fertilize accordingly.
The University of Massachusetts has its Soil and Plant Nutrient Testing Laboratory to which you can send a soil sample. You can also buy a DIY soil testing kit at your local gardening store. If you want to learn more about how to conduct a soil test, read our guide: How to Soil Test Your Lawn.
Pro Tip: Learn how to read a soil test in our article: How to Read a Soil Test Report.
November: Mow until the grass stops growing
During fall, you can mow your grass at your typical mowing height. However, as temperatures near the end of the fall start to drop, keep an eye out for when your grass stops showing signs of growth.
Stop mowing in Massachusetts when temperatures hit 50 F regularly, as this is when grass growth slows down. For perennial ryegrasses, however, this usually occurs at 40 F.
November to early December: Prepare for winter
As winter approaches and temperatures start to drop, it’s time to prepare your lawn for the cold temperatures:
- Rake your lawn: Although raking should be done up to twice a week throughout the fall, pay special attention to this task as the first frost date approaches. Your lawn should be free of leaves and other debris when the snow falls to avoid trapping humidity.
Pro Tip: Instead of raking your lawn throughout the fall, you can use a mulching lawn mower to transform the dead leaves into a healthy mulch that will add organic matter to your lawn. - Winterize your lawn mower and other equipment: See our guide: How to Winterize Your Lawn Equipment: A Step-by-Step Guide.
- Winterize your sprinkler system: Learn more in our article on How to Winterize Your Sprinkler System.
Winter: Late December to late March
All winter: Don’t step on the lawn
Winter is the time to avoid foot traffic at all costs. Underneath the snow, the grass is dormant and fragile, being easily damaged. So making snow angels on your lawn is not a good idea if you want healthy grass in the spring.
All winter: Avoid snow piles
Snow piles form a perfect environment for the development of snow mold. A good alternative is to use a snowblower instead of a shovel to clean your driveway.
FAQ about lawn care in Massachusetts
When does grass stop growing in Massachusetts?
Cool-season grasses will start to slow down their growth when temperatures drop below 50 F and slow down drastically when temperatures get closer to freezing (32 F). In Massachusetts, depending on where you live, this can happen between late October to early November.
What are the best grasses for Massachusetts?
The best grass seeds for Massachusetts lawns are cool-season grasses:
- Tall fescue
- Kentucky bluegrass
- Fine fescues
- Perennial ryegrass
What grasses are resistant to snow mold?
All grasses are susceptible to snow mold, but fine fescues and tall fescue have better resistance to this fungus than Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass (although some cultivars have improved resistance).
When to call a pro
We know that caring for your lawn seems like a lot — because it is. But you don’t have to do it all by yourself. Call a Massachusetts lawn care pro so you can sit back and relax while a qualified pro creates the lawn of your dreams.
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Main Image Credit: Doug Kerr / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
