How to Plant Grass Seed

Learning how to plant grass seed is essential for creating a lush, healthy lawn that enhances your home’s curb appeal and provides a comfortable outdoor space. Whether you’re starting from scratch or filling in bare patches, successful grass seeding requires proper timing and technique.

A well-established lawn does more than just look beautiful — it prevents soil erosion, reduces mud and dust, helps filter groundwater, and creates a natural cooling effect around your home. It also provides a safe, cushioned surface for children and pets to play on.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step of the grass-seeding process, from selecting the right seed variety for your climate to preparing your soil and maintaining your newly planted grass. By following these instructions, you’ll be well on your way to achieving the lawn of your dreams.

Project difficulty: Beginner Estimated time: From 6 to 8 hours for a 10,000-square-foot yard requiring basic seeding Cost: On average, the cost to seed a lawn is between $0.09 and $0.19 per square foot or around $592 to $1,768

Tools and materials

• Grass seed
• Lawn spreader 
• Soil test 
• Compost or starter fertilizer
• Rake
• Garden gloves
• Shovel
• Topsoil
• Straw
• Lawn roller
• Sprinklers or a hose with a sprinkler or mist attachment

Step 1: Choose the best grass seed for your home

For the best results, pick grass that suits your climate, growing conditions, and expectations. You can spread any type of grass seed, but it may not give you the lush lawn you desire. 

The most important factor in choosing grass to grow on your lawn is your climate. Turf can be either cool-season grass or warm-season grass. Cool-season grass thrives in the colder northern states, while warm-season grass does great in the hotter southern states. 

If you live in the transition zone, such as Tennessee, Missouri, and Oklahoma, you can grow either type of grass. However, you will need to pick either a cool-season grass with decent heat tolerance, like tall fescue, or a warm-season grass with good cold tolerance, like Bermudagrass.

In addition to climate, there are a few other important factors to take into consideration when deciding on the type of grass seed for your lawn. Let’s take a closer look at each:

• Amount of sun: Some varieties and species of grass handle shade, while others cannot and will die without full sun. If you need to grow grass in the shade, choose a shade-tolerant grass like fine fescue or Zoysiagrass.
• Maintenance level: Some grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass, are very maintenance-heavy and require frequent mowing and fertilization. However, buffalograss is a fairly low-maintenance option that needs frequent weeding.
• Foot traffic: Will there be a lot of parties, activities, or running around on your lawn? Choose high-traffic grasses, such as perennial ryegrass and seashore paspalum. An added bonus: These grasses are great for pets, too.
• Disease and pest resistance: If you had an existing lawn that was riddled with pests and fungal diseases before your reseeding project, pick a seed that can stand up against disease.

When you decide on the best type of grass seed for your lawn, it’s essential to know how to calculate the amount of seed you will need. Avoid making extra trips to the store by reading our guide.

Learn more in our article: How to Choose the Right Grass for Your Lawn. 

Step 2: Prepare the ground

Start by thoroughly clearing your planting area of all debris, including stones, sticks, dead leaves, and lawn furniture. Use a sturdy rake to create a clean soil surface, as grass seeds need direct contact with dirt for proper germination and root development.

Before seeding, address any weed problems in your yard. While post-emergent herbicides are effective, they require a waiting period of at least 30 days before you can safely plant grass seed. For immediate planting, consider manual weed removal by pulling them out at the root or using a garden hoe.

Here are some non-toxic weed control methods:

• Hand-weeding
• Soil solarization
• Flame weeding
• Boiling water
• Rubbing alcohol
• Vinegar

Read more: 11 Non-Toxic Ways to Kill Weeds

After clearing away debris and weeds, you’ll need to level your soil. An uneven lawn can make it challenging to grow grass and use your lawn mower, and the uneven surface can create tripping hazards. I suggest using topsoil to smooth out your lawn.

Next, you should grade your soil — or determine the slope of the ground. You don’t want a completely flat surface. A 1 or 2 percent slope is best, but make sure it’s facing away from your house or any structures. This will divert water — from rain or irrigation— away from your home.

My tip: Never use a pre-emergent herbicide before seeding, as it will interfere with the seeds’ germination.

Step 3: Test and amend soil

To give your grass the best environment to grow, I recommend conducting a soil test. A soil test’ will reveal your soil’s pH, nutrient levels (more to come in step 4), and composition. If anything looks wrong — specifically with too high or low pH levels — you can apply soil amendments to address the issue.

Common soil amendments you may need to use are:

• Agricultural lime (to raise soil pH)
• Elemental sulfur (to lower soil pH)
• Peat moss
• Compost
• Pea gravel

“If you plot germination vs. soil pH, you will see a peak germination when pH is between 6.5 and 7,” says Richard Duble, a retired turfgrass expert and professor at Texas A&M University.

Read more about soil testing and amendments:

• What Are the Different Types of Soil Amendments for Your Lawn?
• How to Read a Soil Test Report
• How to Change Your Soil pH

Step 4: Add starter fertilizer

Your soil test will also reveal deficiencies in nutrient levels. Fertilizer will provide the nutrients that grass needs for strong establishment and healthy growth. The three primary nutrients are nitrogen (N) for growth, phosphorus (P) for root development, and potassium (K) for disease resistance and drought tolerance.

Select a starter fertilizer specifically formulated for new grass. These starter fertilizers typically have an N-P-K ratio of 6-20-10 or 10-18-10, with a higher proportion of phosphorus to promote strong root development in seedlings.

Apply the starter fertilizer evenly across your prepared soil bed immediately before seeding. Make sure to follow the application rate on the package, as too much fertilizer can damage tender grass seedlings. 

My tip: For best results, I suggest watering the area lightly after applying fertilizer to help the nutrients begin dissolving into the soil. This ensures the nutrients will be available to your grass seeds as soon as they germinate.

Read more about fertilizer: 

• What is N-P-K? A Guide to Understanding Fertilizer Ratios
• When to Apply Starter Fertilizer
• The Best Type of Fertilizer for your Grass – Lawn Love
• What Type of Lawn Fertilizer Do You Need?
• How to Fertilize Your Lawn

Step 5: Plant your grass seed

It’s now time to spread your grass seed evenly. The best way to do that is by using a lawn spreader — also known as a fertilizer spreader. Unevenly spreading grass seed can result in patchy grass and bare spots, which will lower your curb appeal. 

There are are few types of lawn spreaders, but you’ll likely only need one of these two:

• Broadcast spreaders or rotary spreaders are best at seeding larger lawns (2,000 square feet or more) but are a little less accurate. Manual versions cost $30 to $100, while professional-grade models run $200 to $400. 
• Drop spreaders are more precise but are better for small- to medium-sized lawns (less than 2,000 square feet). These typically cost $40 to $150, with commercial models reaching $300.

How to spread your grass seed evenly

Having the right equipment is only one part of the story. To evenly spread grass seed, you’ll want to make two passes with your lawn spreader. This technique (called bi-directional seeding) ensures even coverage. 

1. Adjust the spreader based on the seeding rate. Typically, you’ll find this on the bag of grass seed you bought. If not, see below for more details.
2. Fill the spreader halfway with your grass seed. Using only half the seed for your first pass helps ensure even coverage and prevents running out of seed too soon.
3. Begin spreading at one edge of your lawn. Walk at a steady pace in straight, parallel lines from east to west (or north to south), slightly overlapping each pass like you’re mowing. Keep your walking speed consistent to maintain even seed distribution.
4. Once you’ve covered the entire area, refill the spreader with the remaining half of your grass seed.
5. Make a second pass over your lawn, walking perpendicular to your first pattern. If you initially went east to west, now go north to south. This cross-hatching technique ensures even coverage and helps prevent bare spots in your new lawn.

Read more about planting grass seed: 

• How to plant grass seed on a slope
• How to Plant Grass Seed on Hard Dirt

Common seeding rates

If the bag of grass seed you purchased does not provide a seeding rate, I’ve compiled a general idea based on your species of grass per 1,000 square feet.

Warm-season grasses:

• Bahiagrass, 7 to 10 pounds
• Bermudagrass, 2 to 4 pounds
• Carpetgrass, 2 pounds
• Centipedegrass, 0.25 pounds
• Zoysiagrass, 1 to 2 pounds

Note: St. Augustinegrass is only sold as plugs, sprigs, or sod because it can’t be grown from seed.

Cool-season grasses:

• Bentgrasses, 0.5 to 1 pound
• Kentucky bluegrass, 1 to 2 pounds
• Fine fescues, 4 to 6 pounds
• Tall fescue, 7 to 9 pounds
• Perennial ryegrass, 7 to 9 pounds

Step 6: Cover and protect the seeds with straw

After spreading grass seed, proper coverage is essential for successful germination. Start by ensuring good seed-to-soil contact using a rake to gently work the seeds into the soil surface. For even better results, pass a light lawn roller (50-75 pounds) over the area, as recommended by the Michigan State University Extension.

To protect your investment from birds and other seed-eating wildlife, cover the seeded area with a thin layer of straw. Choose clean wheat, oat, or barley straw, as recommended by Michigan State, since other types may introduce unwanted weed seeds to your lawn. While alternative materials like peat moss or landscape fabric can work, straw is often preferred since it naturally decomposes over time and doesn’t need to be removed.

My tip: When spreading the straw, aim for a light coverage where roughly 50 percent of the soil remains visible. This provides adequate protection while still allowing sufficient sunlight and air circulation for the emerging grass seedlings.

Step 7: Water the seeds

In the first few weeks after planting, water your grass seeds two to three times daily with light sessions of 10-15 minutes each. These frequent, gentle waterings keep the soil surface consistently moist without washing away seeds. Use a sprinkler system or hose attachment that creates a fine mist rather than a strong jet of water.

During hot, dry, or windy conditions, you may need additional watering sessions to prevent the soil from drying out. Keep monitoring your soil moisture — the top layer should feel damp but not waterlogged. 

Once seedlings emerge and reach about 2 inches tall, gradually reduce watering frequency while increasing duration.

Learn more about watering your new grass:

• How Long to Water New Grass Seed
• How Often to Water Grass See

Step 8: Mow and control weeds

Wait until your lawn is established before mowing or applying herbicides. Your grass seedlings need time to develop without disturbance. You can make your first mow when the grass reaches about 3 to 4 inches tall, which typically occurs three or four weeks after germination.

During the establishment period:

• Hand-pull any weeds you see sprouting in the new turf. Your new lawn will do much better without competition for nutrients.
• Hold off on using weed killers. According to the University of Maryland Extension, only apply post-emergent herbicide after you’ve mowed the lawn three or four times.

My tip: I live by the one-third rule — don’t cut more than one-third off of your grass at a time. Otherwise, you’ll stress it out too much. For more details, read our full guide: What is the One-Third Rule of Mowing?

Read more: How High Should You Cut Your Grass?

When to overseed an existing lawn

Overseeding is ideal when your lawn is thin or patchy but still has 50 percent or more healthy grass coverage. This cost-effective approach allows you to maintain your existing turf while filling in bare spots and increasing grass density, making it perfect for lawns showing signs of wear or age.

When your lawn suffers from minor damage due to foot traffic, pet spots, or seasonal stress, overseeding provides a practical solution without the extensive labor and cost of complete lawn renovation. The existing grass helps protect new seedlings and maintains soil stability during the establishment period.

Read more: 

• What is Overseeding?
• How to Overseed a Lawn

FAQ about grass seed

Hire a pro to seed your lawn

Understanding how to plant grass seeds requires a dedicated time investment. To achieve optimal results, the process involves thorough soil preparation before seeding and consistent maintenance afterward. 

If that sounds like too much work for you, contact Lawn Love’s pros to make the job hassle-free. They can do everything from aerating the soil and seeding the lawn to fertilizing the new grass and mowing it for the first time.

Main Image Credit: Adobe Stock