Moss is one of those pesky plants that’s often found mixed with turfgrass, especially if it has access to damp conditions and shady areas. Due to the resilient nature of the plant, moss removal and prevention may require control methods that differ from other weeds.
If your lawn is overrun by moss and you’re looking for ways to nip it in the bud, you’ve come to the right place. We describe how to get rid of moss in your lawn and keep it from coming back.
What is moss?
Moss is an ancient plant with tiny leaves and branch-looking structures, able to grow on soil, logs, and rocks. It propagates by spores and spreads quickly if left to its own devices. One unique trait of moss is that it doesn’t have roots, stems, or other elements of a vascular system; instead, it absorbs and moves nutrients around directly through osmosis.
There are more than 15,000 species of moss, ranging in color from green to gray, yellow, orange, blue, and black.
Common types of moss you might find in your backyard or hiding within your lawn include:
- Sheet moss – Grows flat and can be peeled back like a sheet. Typically grows on rocks or soil and is sometimes used in flower arrangements.
- Cushion moss – A perennial that grows in clumps resembling pin cushions. It’s widely found throughout Europe and the eastern part of North America.
- Rock cap moss – This shade-loving, dark green moss is usually found growing on boulders and rocks in clump form.
- Hair cap moss – This species of moss likes high humidity and plenty of rainfall, typically found in moist heathlands and forests.
- Sphagnum moss – The largest species of moss, often found near bodies of water. It forms beautifully colored carpets in moist areas like marshlands, heathlands, and moorlands.
While moss lawns are an excellent alternative to grass lawns, finding random clusters of moss in the middle of your lawn is probably not what you want. In addition to diminishing your lawn’s curb appeal, the presence of moss can indicate soil problems you should address as soon as possible.
How to get rid of moss in your lawn
If moss has started mixing with your grass, you’ll notice a spongy quality to the areas you step on. You also may spot leafy green stems woven around your grass blades. The presence of this tenacious, adaptable plant can indicate:
- Compacted soil
- Acidic soil
- Nutrient-deficient soil
- Poor drainage
- An insufficient amount of sunlight
Here are four useful ways to remove moss and restore your grass to its former glory.
Manual approach
If you’re dealing with a small patch of moss, removing it manually is certainly doable. All you have to do is to:
- Put on some heavy-duty gloves to protect your hands.
- Pull every piece of moss you can find out of the ground and throw it in the trash or a compost pile/bin.
Scarification approach
Since moss attaches to the ground via threadlike structures called rhizoids, simply raking moss away from your lawn can do the trick. One way is to use a regular rake, such as a bow or leaf rake. Another is to upgrade to a scarifying rake. Due to their ability to dig a little deeper than traditional rakes, scarifying rakes are more efficient at removing moss, thatch, and dead grass while opening up the soil to receive necessary airflow and nutrients.
Steps to getting rid of moss with a scarifying rake:
- Wait for rainfall, and start raking your grass the following day when the soil is still damp.
- Use a back-and-forth motion to break up any clumps of moss.
- As above, gather all the pieces and put them in the trash or a compost pile/bin.
Regular lawn scarification or aeration can help prevent fungal issues, such as slime mold and red thread.
If the moss in your lawn isn’t cleared easily with a scarifying rake, you might need to turn to a specialized moss herbicide.
Chemical herbicide approach
Herbicides that target moss (dubbed moss killers) are typically iron-based, aimed at adding nutrients to your yard and removing conditions moss requires to grow and thrive. For a successful herbicide application:
- Purchase a ferrous ammonium or iron sulfate moss killer and mix it according to the instructions on the package. Pour the mixture into a garden sprayer.
- Apply it to the target area during peak moss-growing season, which is typically in the spring or fall. Because of the iron present in the herbicide, avoid spraying it on any hardscaping to prevent damage and a rusty, “vintage” look to your yard.
Pro tip #1: Since moss is a non-vascular plant, normal weed killers won’t kill it, so make sure to buy one that specifically targets moss. Otherwise, your efforts will be in vain.
Pro tip #2: Herbicide removal techniques usually only solve the problem temporarily. The only permanent solution is to remove the conditions moss needs to survive.
Organic DIY herbicide approach
If you want to avoid introducing herbicides into your yard, you can make and use your own organic blend. Here’s how:
- Gather 4-5 ounces of dish soap or one small box of baking soda, 2 gallons of water, and a sprayer. The mixture will be enough for 1,000 square feet of moss-infested lawn.
- Mix the water with the soap or baking soda, then put the mixture into a sprayer. Alternatively, you can mix 1 tablespoon of vinegar with 1 gallon of water.
- Spray until the moss is saturated, avoiding other greenery in the vicinity. The next day, you should be able to rake the dead moss away. Be sure to dispose of it in a way that the spores cannot escape and generate new patches of moss, such as placing it in sealed garbage bags.
How to prevent moss in your lawn
If you’ve noticed moss lurking in your lawn, your soil may need some attention. Take the time to inspect your yard and make the necessary adjustments.
Ironically, the conditions needed for moss to thrive also prevent grass from growing thick and healthy. The only way to end your moss problem once and for all is to improve your soil. Not only will you keep moss at bay, but you’ll get to enjoy an impressive lawn for years to come.
Here’s how you can achieve all this.
Test and amend your soil
Moss prefers soil with a low pH (also called acidic). To determine if your soil is the cause of your moss problem, get your soil tested immediately. This can either be done through your local Cooperative Extension Office or at home. Soil testing will determine your soil’s pH levels and whether it has any nutrient (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus) deficiencies, which also trigger moss growth.
To lower soil acidity, add lime to it. Apply 25 pounds of lime per 1,000 square feet of lawn in the spring and prepare an identical batch for the fall.
It can take several months for your soil pH level to change, so don’t expect immediate results. For faster results, you have the option of using fast-acting lime.
Dethatch your lawn
Thatch is a blanket of dead grass, roots, leaves, and other organic matter that slowly builds up in between living grass and the soil underneath. Too much thatch can contribute to compacted soil and excess moisture, which are favorable conditions for moss growth. It can also lead to your grass looking sparse and losing its green, vibrant color.
Through dethatching, you’re removing excess thatch, allowing air, water, and nutrients to better reach the ground. Your grass will grow thick, lush, and dense, preventing moss from forcing its way through.
To see if excess thatch could be the reason for your moss problem, measure the thickness of the thatch. Grab a shovel and dig out a 3-inch-deep section of your yard. The thatch will be the brown, spongy layer between the grass and soil.
If the thatch is thicker than half an inch, a thorough dethatching may be in order. To do it, you can either:
- Use a power dethatcher or a dethatcher rake to gather the organic matter or
- Hire a professional team to handle this labor-intensive process
Aerate your lawn
Moss thrives in moist environments, so its presence could be a sign of problematic lawn drainage. Not only does poor drainage give moss the opportunity to spread out, but it also prevents healthy grass growth.
Poor drainage can be caused by:
- Dense soil, such as clay
- Compacted soil from heavy foot traffic
- Depressions in the soil, causing flooding
Poor drainage problems can easily be fixed by lawn aeration (or core aeration), a process that creates small holes in the ground. It relieves pressure in the soil, softens the soil, and creates space for air, water, and nutrients to reach the grassroots.
To test if you have compacted soil, grab a shovel and try to stick it in the ground. Your shovel should easily be able to reach at least 6 inches into the ground. If it doesn’t, that’s a sign your lawn needs to be aerated. Aeration is best left in the hands of a professional team, as they’ll know exactly how to do it and when.
Pro tip: If deep depressions in the ground are flooding certain areas of your yard, you can fill them in with dirt or install a french drain system.
Fertilize your lawn
Lawn fertilization can help keep your grass healthy and strong, preventing moss from sprouting in areas it shouldn’t. Fertilizer enhances the nutrients in your soil to better feed your grass. Improving your lawn’s health helps prevent issues with pests, diseases, fungi, and moss.
Schedule your lawn fertilization according to your grass type. In the table below, we outline when warm-season and cool-season grasses should be fertilized.
| Grass Category | Grass Types | Recommended Fertilization Schedule |
| Cool-season | Tall fescue Kentucky bluegrass Perennial ryegrass | -1st round: Early April -2nd round: Early September -3rd round: Late October |
| Warm-season | Zoysiagrass Centipedegrass St.Augustinegrass Bermudagrass Carpetgrass Bahiagrass | -1st round: Early April -2nd round: June -3rd round: September |
Fertilizer should be applied to moist soil, either from rainfall or watering. Wait for the grass blades to dry, and go in with the fertilizer of your choice. Try to time it so there’s no rain right after fertilizing, or you risk having everything washed away before it can sink into the soil.
Reduce shade
Moss prefers to grow in the shade, while most turfgrasses do not. Grass needs around six hours of direct sunlight or 12 hours of indirect sunlight each day. If moss is thriving in a shady patch of your yard, see if there’s anything you can do to introduce more light to the area. Some ways to do this include:
- Trimming trees and bushes
- Removing trees and bushes altogether
- Thinning out the canopy
FAQ about getting rid of moss in your lawn
Are moss lawns a good alternative to grass lawns?
While you should still check your soil conditions, moss is far from a villain in your yard. It’s not a weed — it’s a harmless plant that grows where grass won’t. Some people even use moss as a low-maintenance alternative to grass.
Moss lawns require more water and are less durable than most turfgrasses. However, they’re low-maintenance since you don’t need to worry about mowing, fertilizing, and controlling pests or weeds.
There are plenty of other alternatives to grass, including clover, thyme, and even artificial grass.
How do I grow grass in a shady area?
To give your grass the upper hand in shady areas of your lawn, plant a grass type that’s shade tolerant, such as fescue, perennial ryegrass, or shade-tolerant varieties of St. Augustine, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass. You also can prune trees and bushes around the shady area to allow more light to flow through.
How do I keep my lawn healthy?
The most important way to have a moss-free lawn is to make sure your grass is healthy. This is achieved by:
- Keeping your lawn mower in good condition
- Mowing, fertilizing, and watering your lawn regularly
- Dethatching, weeding, overseeding, and aerating when necessary
- Removing debris that may accumulate on your lawn
Ultimately, good lawn maintenance practices go a long way.
Get expert help
While yard care may be relaxing and enjoyable for some, it may not be your cup of tea. If you don’t have the time or inclination for lawn maintenance or landscaping projects, reach out to a local lawn care expert for professional services that go a long way.
Main Photo Credit: Mary-Frances Main | Flickr | CC BY 2.0
