As winter gives way to warmer temperatures, your lawn is awakening from its dormant state and needs special attention to thrive in the upcoming growing season. These spring lawn care steps can make the difference between a lawn that is stunning and just so-so.
From yard cleanups, to weed control, and lawn fertilization, getting a great lawn takes time, effort, and hours spent in your yard. Worth noting: Lawn Love offers a lot more lawn care services than just lawn mowing. Bonus: You don’t have to rent an aerator, make sense of N-P-K fertilizer ratios, and get your hands dirty pulling weeds.
But if you prefer to go the DIY route, we’ve got you covered. This spring lawn care checklist will help your grass bounce back and flourish as the days grow longer.
1. Clean up your yard
Most places in the U.S., yards taking a pounding during the winter months (quit gloating, Miami). Dead leaves, branches, and debris that accumulate over winter can smother emerging grass, preventing proper growth and creating favorable conditions for pests and diseases.
A thorough spring cleanup also allows you to assess any damage caused by winter storms or frost and identify areas that need reseeding This early intervention prevents small issues from becoming major problems later in the season.
Your cleanup checklist:
- Remove leaves and twigs: Rake up leaves and twigs to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of fungal diseases.
- Clear lawn clutter: Pick up toys, garden tools, and other outside objects that may have flattened the grass.
- Address snow mold: If you notice matted grass areas due to snow mold, gently rake the affected spots to encourage recovery. Matted grass can prevent new grass from sprouting.
Read More:
- What is Pink Snow Mold and How Do You Get Rid of It?
- What is Gray Snow Mold and How Do You Get Rid of It?
2. Inspect your sprinkler system
Before the growing season starts, make sure your irrigation system is running smoothly by following these steps:
- Run the system to see if all zones are receiving even coverage.
- Look for any visible leaks in sprinkler heads, pipes, or hoses.
- Align the sprinkler heads properly to avoid spraying your sidewalk and driveway.
- Replace cracked sprinkler heads and damaged nozzles.
Read More:
- Sprinkler System Maintenance Checklist
- How Much Does Sprinkler Repair Cost?
- How to Choose the Right Type of Sprinkler for Your Lawn
- How to Create a DIY Sprinkler System For Your Lawn
3. Tune up your mower and check other tools
A well-maintained lawn mower can make or break your lawn. As spring rolls around, take these maintenance steps:
- Sharpen mower blades: Dull blades tear your grass instead of cutting it cleanly, weakening it over time.
- Change oil and air filters: Replace old oil and clean or change the air filter for optimal mower performance.
- Check spark plugs: Replace any worn ones to help your mower start easily.
- Check tire pressure: Neglecting this can make the mower harder to push and cause uneven cuts. Replace damaged tires.
- Use quality gas: My dad always said using cheap gas will ruin your mower. That’s because it contains more impurities, which can cause bad engine performance. It usually burns less efficiently and causes carbon deposits inside the engine.
Beyond your lawn mower, it’s important to inspect, clean, and sharpen pruning shears, rakes, fertilizer spreaders, and other lawn tools.
Read More:
- Best Lawn Mower Maintenance Practices
- How Much Does Lawn Mower Service Cost?
- 10 Best Lawn Mowers
- 9 Best Lawn Mowers for Big Yards
- 10 Best Lawn Mowers for Small Yards
- 6 Best Robot Lawn Mowers
4. Dethatch
Thatch buildup blocks nutrients, water, and air from reaching the soil. This often results in stunted root growth, diseases, and poor curb appeal.
If your lawn has more than ½ inch of thatch, you’ll want to dethatch it. Either rake it by hand or run a power dethatcher over it.
Dethatch when your grass is actively growing to minimize stress and speed up recovery: Warm-season grasses in late spring and cool-season grasses in the fall or very early spring.
Read More:
5. Aerate
Compacted soil can prevent grass roots from accessing air, water, and nutrients. Lawn aeration helps alleviate this problem.
Liquid, spike, and core aeration all relieve compacted soil, but core aeration works best if your lawn gets heavy traffic, the soil is heavily compacted, and drainage is poor. Liquid aeration works best on moderately compacted soils.
“If your lawn has soil compaction and the problems associated with it, it is good practice to core aerate. This will improve the soil conditions and make the turfgrass stand healthier,” says A.J. Lindsey, UF/IFAS turf specialist.
The timing for aeration is similar to that of dethatching — and for the same reasons, too. Aerate warm-season grasses in late spring, and cool-season grasses in the fall or early spring.
Read More:
6. Test your soil
A soil test will tell you everything you need to know about your soil. This includes:
- pH level: It measures how alkaline or acidic your soil is on a scale ranging from 0 to 14. If your soil test report says you have overly acidic or alkaline soil, you can add amendments to change the pH level.
- Nutrient level: Measures nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other micronutrients like calcium, magnesium, and iron.
- Organic matter: Indicates the presence of decomposed plant material that helps soil retain moisture and nutrients.
- Soil structure and texture: Identifies if the soil is too sandy, clay-heavy, or loamy, affecting drainage and root growth.
Lawn and garden centers sell soil test kits, but for best results, send your soil samples to your local Extension office. They’ll tell you what your soil needs to function effectively and how to improve it.
Read More: How to Test Your Lawn Soil
Add soil amendments
Once you know the condition of your soil, you can apply soil amendments to correct imbalances and improve lawn health. These amendments do a few things:
Change soil pH: Most grasses like soil with a pH level of 6 or 7. When that pH is off-kilter, your soil can’t absorb key nutrients essential for healthy grass growth. Lower the pH by adding elemental sulfur, aluminum sulfate, peat moss, or organic matter like pine needles. Raise the pH by applying lime (calcium carbonate), dolomitic lime, wood ash, or bone meal.
Enhance organic matter: Soil amendments like compost add organic matter to the soil. As it breaks down, compost improves soil structure, supports microbial activity, and helps retain moisture. Active microbes boost nutrient cycling and help grass thrive.
Encourage root health: Organic material increases the soil’s ability to retain moisture and nutrients, encouraging roots to grow deeper and stronger. These can include compost, peat moss, organic mulch, bone and fish meal, seaweed or kelp, and gypsum.
Increase water retention: Compost, peat moss, mulch, manure, and biochar help your soil hold moisture and distribute it to the grass roots. Depending on your soil type, this can be key to preventing the soil from drying out and maintaining healthy grass growth.
Prevent soil erosion: Using mulch and compost helps keep the soil stable and reduces erosion. This is key in sloped areas or places that get a lot of rain or wind.
Read More: What Are the Different Types of Soil Amendments for Your Lawn?
7. Seed, overseed, and sod
A good spring lawn care regimen includes seeding, overseeding, or sodding. Whether you want to start a new lawn, repair winter damage, or simply improve the thickness of your grass, these steps are crucial.
Seeding is ideal for starting a lawn from scratch or filling in bare patches. It’s cost-effective but requires some patience and consistency. You can dry seed your lawn by hand or with a spreader, or hydroseed for quicker results.
Overseeding can help thicken an existing lawn and introduce more resilient grass varieties. By reducing open spaces in the turf, it helps prevent weeds.
Sodding provides instant results and helps with erosion control but is more expensive than the other options.
If you want to use pre-emergent and plant grass in the same season, I recommend applying the herbicide first in early spring, then wait to seed or sod later. This prevents damage to new grass. With pre-emergent in the mix, seed or sod a warm-season turf in late spring or a cool-season turf in the fall.
Read More:
- Should You Sod, Seed, or Hydroseed?
- How Much Does It Cost to Seed a Lawn?
- How Much Does Hydroseeding Cost?
- How Much Does Sod Cost to Install?
8. Fertilize
To grow strong this spring, your lawn needs three key nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Fertilizers list these as N-P-K with numbers like 10-10-10, indicating the percentage of each nutrient.
- Nitrogen (N) promotes lush green growth.
- Phosphorus (P) supports root development.
- Potassium (K) helps with disease resistance and drought tolerance.
To get your lawn green and growing this spring, use a fertilizer with lots of nitrogen, such as 30-0-10 or 20-5-10. But remember to check your soil test results first to see what nutrients your lawn actually needs. If you fertilize in the fall, use slow-release fertilizer or compost to avoid overloading your grass.
Fertilize your lawn about three weeks after it starts to green up, depending on your grass type. Make sure the ground is moist (watering a few days before should do the trick), and apply the fertilizer lightly to avoid fertilizer burn.
Read More:
- Slow-Release Vs. Quick-Release Fertilizer
- 8 Best Fertilizer Spreaders
- How to Avoid Over-Fertilizing Your Lawn
- How Much Does Lawn Fertilization Cost?
- How to Fertilize Your Lawn
- When to Fertilize Your Lawn
9. Control weeds
Apply pre-emergent herbicides
Pre-emergent herbicides deprive weed seeds of nutrients and build a chemical barrier in the soil’s surface. This disrupts root growth and plant establishment.
To be effective, NC State Extension says the pre-emergent must be present in the soil at the time of weed seed germination (usually when soil temperatures reach 50 or 55 degrees Fahrenheit for a few days straight). If you apply it after the weeds have sprouted, it won’t work.
To know when to apply pre-emergent, figure out what weeds grow in your yard and when. Apply your pre-emergent 2 to 3 weeks before they appear.
Read More: How to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides
Apply post-emergent herbicides
Post-emergent herbicides are chemicals designed to kill established and visible weeds. They’re often applied to weeds that are difficult to eliminate manually or with organic weed killers.
When should you apply a post-emergent herbicide? Whenever you see weeds in your yard. If you missed your pre-emergent application window or the product didn’t work, use a post-emergent instead. Be sure to check the weed type, air and soil temperature, time of day, and weather before application.
Read More: When to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides
10. Water your lawn
Watering mistakes can weaken your lawn. While dry conditions stress your grass, too much water isn’t any better. Overwatering encourages shallow roots because they don’t need to dig deep into the soil to look for water. It can also cause fungal diseases.
Here are some tips for watering your lawn:
- Try to water your lawn between 5 a.m. and 9 a.m. Don’t water when it’s hot or too late in the day.
- Only water when your grass is thirsty. Not sure? Step on the grass. If it doesn’t bounce back and lays flat, it needs watering.
- Water less often in early spring. The cooler temperatures mean that less water evaporates during this period. Spring showers also help irrigate your lawn.
- Cool-season grasses need about 1 or 1.5 inches of water every week, while warm-season grasses need around 1 inch of water weekly.
For more insight on watering your lawn, read our guides:
- When is the Best Time to Water Your Lawn in Hot Weather?
- How Long Should You Water Your Lawn?
- When and How to Water Your Lawn
- When to Stop Watering Your Lawn
11. Mow your lawn
Mowing is relatively simple, but following a few of my suggestions will help protect your lawn:
- Mow off only one-third of your grass at a time to prevent stressing it.
- To stop weed seed germination, mow your grass a bit taller (but still within the recommended range). This creates shade that blocks germination in weeds.
- Don’t mow wet grass, as this can clog your mower.
- Mow in a different direction every time to prevent a pattern from forming in the grass.
- Overlap a little when mowing to ensure an even cut.
- Start slow. You will likely need to mow every other week early in the season as the grass hasn’t started growing vigorously. Switch to weekly mowing as the weather warms up and your grass grows faster.
- Don’t mow when it’s hot. The best times for lawn mowing are during the mid-morning or late afternoon.
If you don’t know what your turf’s ideal height is, you can refer to the table below:
| Grass type | Ideal grass height (inches) | Mow when the grass is this high (inches) |
| Bahiagrass | 3 to 4 | 4.0 to 5.25 |
| Bermudagrass | 1 to 2 | 1.25 to 2.5 |
| Buffalograss | 2 to 4 | 2.5 to 5.25 |
| Carpetgrass | 1 to 2 | 1.25 to 2.5 |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5 to 2 | 2.0 to 2.5 |
| Fine fescue | 1.5 to 3 | 2 to 4 |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 to 3 | 2.5 to 4 |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2 to 3 | 2.5 to 4 |
| St. Augustinegrass | 2.5 to 4 | 3.25 to 5.25 |
| Tall fescue | 2 to 4 | 2.5 to 5.25 |
| Zoysiagrass | 1 to 2.5 | 1.25 to 3.25 |
Read More: An Ultimate Guide to Grass Types
12. Treat lawn diseases
Cool temperatures and spring rain can lead to fungal diseases in your lawn. Here are some common ones you might see this spring:
- Fairy ring
- Necrotic ring spot
- Dollar spot
- Pink snow mold
- Gray snow mold
- Anthracnose
- Leaf spot and melting out
- Rust
These diseases can leave your grass spotty, discolored, and patchy. Some even cause foreign bodies to sprout on your grass, like mushrooms, cobweb-like mycelium, or fruiting bodies.
You can avoid most diseases by practicing good lawn management, especially preventing overwatering. Other helpful things to do:
- Remove affected grass and don’t compost it, as this can spread the spores.
- Improve lawn drainage so water doesn’t pool on the lawn.
- Mow your lawn correctly.
- Stay on top of thatch to avoid creating a breeding ground for fungi.
- Use the right fertilizer.
- Promote good air circulation by cutting back trees and shrubs. This helps the grass dry faster and reduces the chances of fungal growth.
- In cases where a disease gets out of hand, use a fungicide or hire a pro to help.
13. Treat lawn pests
Many pests show up when spring arrives, including sod webworms, chinch bugs, ticks, and aphids. However, the most notorious pests to watch are grubs, which rear their tiny heads in late spring.
There are many ways to approach pest control:
- Encourage natural predators: Introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs, predatory beetles, and parasitic wasps, which naturally reduce pest populations. Birds also help, so try to set up feeders to attract them.
- Apply beneficial nematodes: These tiny worms hunt pests like grubs and larvae without harming your lawn. Apply them in moist soil when temperatures are mild.
- Use organic treatments: These can include neem oil, garlic, chili peppers, essential oils, or Diatomaceous earth.
- Apply pesticides: Select broad-spectrum products or choose a treatment that targets a specific pest.
- Keep your lawn healthy in general. This includes dethatching, aeration, mowing, and watering.
If you find yourself struggling with pests, contact a lawn care pro near you.
FAQ about spring lawn care
Hold off on spring lawn treatments until all chances of frost are gone. Some tasks should wait until your grass begins to green up.
Want to know the right spring lawn care schedule for your grass type? Check out our Lawn Care Calendar for Cool-Season Grass and Lawn Care Calendar for Warm-Season Grass.
Generally, leaving grass clippings on your lawn, also called grasscycling, is beneficial. As the clippings decompose, they add nutrients to the soil, cutting down the need for fertilizer.
However, you should pick them up if there is an excess of them or they are clumped together. Also pick them up before overseeding; removing the clippings can help with seed-to-soil contact.
Wait until your new grass reaches about 3 to 4 inches (see table above) before mowing for the first time. This can take close to a month. For more details, read our complete guide.
Find a lawn care pro near you
As your lawn wakes up from winter, spring becomes a key time for growth and care. If spring lawn care isn’t your cup of tea, no worries. Lawn Love can connect you with an experienced lawn care pro in your area to give your grass the attention it needs to grow strong.
Sources
- A.J. Lindsey, UF/IFAS Turf Specialist, email interview
- NC State Extension
University of Minnesota Extension
Main Photo Credit: Artofinnovation | Adobe Stock Free | License, created using Canva Pro
