How to Get Thick Grass

If your sparse, patchy grass is bringing you down, the good news is that turning it around is easier than you think. If you want to know how to get thick grass, it’s simple: keep your soil healthy, aerate the ground, overseed your lawn, and fertilize your grass.

Whether you have a green thumb or just learning about lawn care, learn how to get thick grass and keep it that way.

4 steps to getting a thick lawn

Achieving that dreamy lawn is all about setting up a lawn care schedule and sticking to it. Follow our tried and true methods for establishing a thick lawn, and your grass will look and feel great for years to come.

Prepare your soil

Before you do anything else, put your soil to the test. Just like the human body is made up of an intricate system of interconnected parts, so is soil. This living and life-giving natural resource consists of bacteria, fungi, and other microbes forming a symbiotic ecosystem. 

Once in a while, the health of your soil needs to be checked to ensure proper nutrient and pH levels. Soil tests are an inexpensive way to monitor and maintain soil health and provide an accurate diagnosis.

You’ll get a complete picture of:

• Macronutrient levels (whether there are nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium deficiencies that are hampering growth). They’re also known as N-P-K.
• pH levels (acidic, neutral, or alkaline)
• Salinity levels

Grass likes a neutral pH (level 7), so if your soil is well outside that range, it can be subject to problems. An overly acidic soil (pH below 7) can struggle with moss problems, stunted growth, and weed infestation. To fix the problem, add limestone, compost, or wood ash to your soil. The amount you should use depends on soil composition; sandy soil needs less lime or other amendments, while clay-based soil needs more.

Soil that is too alkaline (pH above 7) has trouble absorbing necessary nutrients, hindering growth. In this case, it’s recommended that you add organic matter or acidifying fertilizers to your soil. The test results will tell you how much, when, and how to apply them.

Macronutrients are also key to achieving a healthy, thick lawn. Each of the three serves its own purpose, as shown below.

Nutrient	Key benefits
Nitrogen	• Helps rapid growth and protein synthesis • Increases leaf development for a dense lawn
Phosphorus	• Helps early root growth • Promotes plant maturity and seed development
Potassium	• Increases drought and disease resistance

Your soil test results will help you identify nutrient deficiencies and guide your fertilizer selection process.  Fertilizer labels normally display the N-P-K ratio in the product. For example, if the label indicates 10-10-10, that means the fertilizer contains 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 10% potassium.

If your soil lacks nitrogen, choose a fertilizer with a higher first number, such as 20-10-10 or 30-10-10. The same goes for the other two macronutrients. If your test results show a balanced deficiency across the board, you should select a balanced fertilizer with equal N-P-K proportions.

With this snapshot of your soil’s health on hand, you’ll know how to avoid soil degradation. 

When to test your soil

You can collect soil samples at any time of the year, though fall is generally considered the best time to do it. This is when lawns start to go dormant, and the soil is moist and accessible, making sampling easy.

How to test your soil

If you’re ready to have your soil tested, the process is simple:

• A T-shape soil probe is the easiest way to extract soil for testing, especially when it comes to compacted soils or larger areas such as lawns. You also can use a garden spade, knife, or hand trowel, though these tools require more time, effort, and skill. When it comes to lawns, the soil sample should be 3 to 4 inches deep.
• Place the collected samples in a clean plastic bucket or box. Never use metal buckets such as aluminum- or zinc-plated, since the metals can influence the test results. Also, ensure organic matter on top of the soil, such as mulch or thatch, isn’t included in the soil samples.
• To prepare the soil samples, break them up and place them on parchment paper to air dry at room temperature. Once dry, you should be able to crush the soil to the size of wheat grains.
• Mix the samples well and remove roots and other organic debris.
• Send your samples to the nearest testing lab for detailed nutrient and pH analysis, or contact a local Department of Agriculture extension office.

Aerate your soil

If your lawn gets heavy foot traffic, such as kids or pets running and playing in the same spot, your soil may become compacted and block grass growth. 

Aeration is crucial if you’re planning on overseeding your lawn for added thickness. Seeds can’t germinate in compacted soil that hasn’t had access to nutrients, air, and water. Aeration allows the seeds to settle and sprout as they should, supports healthy root development, and fragments thatch buildup, which can choke and weaken the grass.

The process itself can involve any of the following techniques:

1. Core aeration refers to removing small plugs of soil from the ground and spreading them across the lawn’s surface. The great thing about it is that it breaks up and redistributes compacted soil, promoting root growth and nutrient, water, and air absorption.

2. Spike aeration creates holes in the lawn, but unlike core aeration, no soil is removed. Instead, the dirt is pushed into the ground. Spike aeration is recommended when you want to create better access to the root system before fertilization or overseeding.

3. Liquid aeration involves using a special liquid solution. The product is mixed with water and spread evenly across the yard using a garden pump sprayer or a hose-end attachment. Its ingredients stimulate microbes and break down dense and compact soil.

Overseed your grass

It’s no secret that lawns can really take a hit from dog rampages, heavy foot traffic, or simple negligence. If that’s the case with your lawn, applying fresh seed can return it to its former thick, lush glory.

When to overseed your lawn

Overseed cool-season grasses in fall, around early September. This allows seedlings enough time to grow before the first frost in mid-to-late October. Overseed warm-season grasses in spring; it’s performed in late May or early June for a thick, lush lawn by summer.

How to overseed your lawn

Before starting, apply a slow-release fertilizer with a nutrient ratio adapted to your soil. 

Follow up with the actual overseeding, which involves:

• Preparing the lawn: Mow your lawn short and remove debris and thatch to expose the soil.
• Choosing the right seeds: For the best results, select high-quality seeds that match your existing lawn and consider your climate, soil type, and sunlight exposure.
• Spreading the seeds: Apply the grass seeds using a broadcast spreader (best used on larger lawns) or a hand spreader (ideal for smaller lawns). Follow the application rate indicated on the label and try to spread the seeds as evenly as possible.
• Preparing the soil: Once the seed is applied, rake the soil to ensure good contact and proper germination.

Afterward, keep the seed moist until it sprouts and is actively growing. This may mean watering the area several times a day to prevent the soil from drying out. 

While it’s common practice to apply seed only to visible bare spots, it’s actually a better idea to spread it to the entire lawn to thicken it up. Take it as an opportunity to introduce new grass varieties into your yard. 

Feed your lawn regularly

It can be tough to keep your lawn looking fresh and green year-round. Between changing temperatures, pests, lawn diseases, and other foes, it can feel like your lawn is under constant attack. To give your turf some much-needed TLC, fertilize it according to its needs. Here’s why:

• Fertilizer enhances soil quality. Replacing and replenishing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium contributes to your lawn’s well-being.

• Fertilizer promotes healthy, thick, strong grass. With the necessary nutrients backing it up, your lawn will look luscious and stay green longer. Say goodbye to dry patches, discoloration, and weak grass blades.
• Fertilizer supports root system development. This can help your lawn withstand drought, foot traffic, and environmental stress.
• Fertilizer enhances color. Who doesn’t want that green, vibrant look?
• Fertilizer creates a disease barrier. By definition, lawn diseases trigger a host of problems that can turn your healthy lawn into an eyesore. Regular fertilization makes lawns less disease-prone and more resistant to attacks. Simply put, in case of any stress, your lawn will bounce back much faster.
• Fertilizer keeps pests at bay. Thanks to the benefits fertilizer provides, pests will have a much harder time attacking your lawn and wreaking havoc. Plus, certain fertilizers contain insecticides known to kill pests and prevent infestation.

When to fertilize your lawn

Generally, cool-season grasses need fertilizer in late fall to protect the roots and help them survive the colder winter months. Warm-season grasses benefit from late spring to mid-summer fertilization, though fall applications also can be beneficial. Fertilizer selection will depend on the nutrients your soil needs (based on soil test results).

Try to feed your lawn two to four times a year. As soon as the seasons change and spring rolls around, perform your first fertilization. After that, fertilize based on your grass type and stick to the recommended schedule. Not enough fertilizer will lead to poor lawn development, while too much can kill your lawn by overloading it with nutrients.

The best time of day to apply fertilizer is in the morning or early evening. You’ll avoid the warm daytime temperatures that work against the process.

Our table below can serve as a guideline for fertilizing your grass type.

Grass category	Grass types	Recommended fertilization schedule
Cool-season	Tall fescue Kentucky bluegrass Perennial ryegrass	-1st round: Early April -2nd round: Early September -3rd round: Late October
Warm-season	Zoysiagrass Centipedegrass St. Augustinegrass Bermudagrass Carpetgrass Bahiagrass	-1st round: Early April -2nd round: June -3rd round: September

How to fertilize your lawn

Applying fertilizer is easier than you think, but your technique will depend on the fertilizer you choose, the size of your lawn, and the tools you have available.

Here’s how to fly through the process without fuss.

1. Choose your fertilizer: Thanks to the soil test, you’ll know what fertilizer to purchase. Read the instructions carefully before starting. Fertilizer ingredients may change, so don’t assume you already know what your bag of goodies contains. 
2. Select a fertilizer spreader: Rotary spreaders work best on larger lawns, while drop spreaders should be used on smaller turfs. If you’re fertilizing with compost, you may need to use your hands for an even, hassle-free application. Organic fertilizers sometimes get stuck in the spreader, which is why using your hands is best. Likewise, if you go for liquid fertilizer, choose a fertilizer bottle that can be directly attached to a hose.
3. Fertilize moist soil: Fertilizer should be applied to moist soil, so wait for rainfall and fertilize as soon as the grass blades are dry. Alternatively, you can water your lawn a day or two before fertilizing. 
4. Spread the fertilizer: Start with the lowest spreader setting to avoid applying too much fertilizer, and make several test passes. If satisfied, run the spreader around the perimeter of your lawn first and then go over the rest of it, slightly overlapping each pass. In the case of liquid fertilizer, mix it with the specified amount of water, pour it into the sprayer, and start working your way across the lawn in rows. Always work backward to see sprayed areas and avoid stepping on them. 
5. Water the fertilizer: Granular or water-soluble beads need water to sink into the soil, so follow up with watering immediately or within 24 hours. When it comes to liquids, wait a few hours and water the lawn to wash off excess fertilizer and avoid burning your grass.
6. Clean up: Sweep excess fertilizer that may land on your driveway, sidewalk, or patio. Next, water down your spreader to remove any fertilizer chemicals and dust, preventing corrosion and allowing for problem-free fertilization in the future.

Slow-release vs. quick-release fertilizers 

Slow-release fertilizers are granular beads that release nutrients over six to eight weeks. Quick-release fertilizers can be liquid concentrates or water-soluble beads that act as soon as they’re watered. Generally, slow-release fertilizers are better for your lawn because they support sustained growth and lower the risk of burning the grass.

Here are some key aspects of each type:

Fertilizer type	Pros	Cons
Slow-release	✓ No toxic buildup on the soil ✓ Helps with water movement and soil structure ✓ Introduces beneficial soil microbes ✓ Safer to use around children and pets	✗ Lower concentrations of nutrients ✗ Takes longer to absorb ✗ Costs more
Quick-release	✓ Lower cost ✓ Highly concentrated ✓ Acts faster ✓ Higher nutrient ratio	✗ Can cause more toxic buildup ✗ Made from synthetic materials ✗ Can pollute groundwater

Organic vs. synthetic fertilizers

Fertilizers are normally categorized as organic or synthetic. Choosing between the two types depends on your personal lawn care goals, soil health, and environmental considerations. Some homeowners prefer the natural approach, while others may opt for quick results and convenience.

Here are some key aspects of each type:

Fertilizer type	Pros	Cons
Organic	✓ Doesn’t burn lawns ✓ Slow and steady nutrient release ✓ Contains many trace minerals and balanced nutrition for your grass ✓ Improves soil health	✗ Less nutrient release in cooler temperatures ✗ Costs more ✗ Dependent on microorganisms in the soil ✗ Can cause harmful runoff
Synthetic	✓ More commonly available ✓ Formulas made for exact lawn needs ✓ Acts quickly ✓ Costs less	✗ Shorter lifespan ✗ Can deteriorate soil ✗ Can burn lawn ✗ May cause chemical runoff

How to maintain a thick lawn

If you dream of a thick lawn, you have to put in the work. 

Maintaining a thick lawn is about more than the occasional watering and mowing. It’s about implementing a comprehensive lawn care program that will continue to nurture your grass no matter the time of year.

Water your lawn correctly

Knowing how long, how often, and how much to water your grass is key to caring for it. 

When to water your lawn

The best time of day to water your grass is between 5 a.m. and 9 a.m. when wind and evaporation are less likely. This allows the water to penetrate the soil and make its way to the roots. It also gives the excess water left on the foliage time to dry quickly, which reduces the risk of fungal lawn diseases. 

Your next best option to reduce the likelihood of evaporation is watering in the evening, around 6 p.m. However, without the sun to evaporate excess water, you can attract brown patch fungus, melting-out, and dollar spot, to name a few diseases.  

If you must water in the evening, a drip irrigation system can help. It targets the grassroots directly without touching the foliage. But watering in the morning gives your grass the best chance at growing and staying healthy.

Pro tip: Don’t water your lawn between 10 a.m. and about 4 p.m. During this time, most of the water will be lost to evaporation before it can soak into the soil, wasting water and leaving your grass thirsty. 

How often to water your lawn

Established grass needs two to three waterings a week. As long as you follow the recommended amount for your grass type, this lawn care task should be relatively low-maintenance.

Cool-season grasses typically require 1 inch to 1.5 inches of water weekly. Water three times a week in equally spaced intervals. Some common cool-season grass types include:

• Kentucky bluegrass
• Fine fescue
• Tall fescue
• Perennial ryegrass
• Bentgrass

Warm-season grasses need less water than cool-season grasses, which is typically about ½ inch to 1 inch of water weekly. Water any of the following types once or twice a week:

• Bermudagrass
• St. Augustinegrass
• Zoysiagrass
• Centipedegrass
• Bahiagrass
• Buffalograss

In a newly seeded cool-season lawn, keep the top 1.5 inches of soil moist (not soggy) for between 5 and 10 days, which is how long the germination period lasts. If you have warm-season grass, you may have to water the new seeds for up to two or three weeks, depending on the type.

How you water your grass also depends on the season and the weather conditions that come with it. For example, during your region’s rainy season, you’ll need to cut back on how much water you’re giving your grass. During periods of drought, you’ll need to water your grass more. 

Mow your lawn properly

Mowing your lawn is yet another crucial lawn care task you shouldn’t take lightly. The health and appearance of your grass depend on it. 

How to mow your lawn

• Mow a dry lawn. Dry grass is less brittle and sticks up straight, so it clumps less and is easier to cut.
• Vary your mowing pattern. Repetition can cause your grass to lean in the direction you mow, so shake things up by mowing in a different direction every time.
• Don’t set a strict schedule. Rather, mow as often as needed for your grass type, growing conditions, and season. 
• Don’t leave clippings on the grass. While a small amount is recommended for fertilizing purposes, too much will cut off sunlight and air.
• Don’t mow in the heat. It will put stress on the grass and yourself. Instead, mow in the morning or early evening. 
• Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade. This allows enough surface area for photosynthesis and moisture retention. Scalping (cutting your grass too short) can harm your grass in several ways. 
• Mow according to grass type. Every grass has a particular height at which it prefers to be cut. Respecting it will prevent matting, disease, and stress damage due to heat, drought, and foot traffic. Our 8 lawn mowing tips and tricks can come in handy if you’re not sure where to begin.
• Keep your lawn mower’s blades sharp. Chefs say that a sharp knife is safer than a dull one, and the same is true for your lawn mower blades. Sharp blades cut grass cleanly, promoting a healthier lawn. Dull blades tear grass, leading to a ragged appearance and increased susceptibility to diseases.

Pro tip: We recommend starting with a higher mower setting and gradually lowering the height until you reach two to three inches or the recommended height for your grass type.

Cool-season grasses

Once soil temperatures reach 50 degrees Fahrenheit, around late March or early April, cool-season grasses come out of dormancy, green up, and grow fast. When your grass reaches 3 to 4 inches, begin mowing and increase the frequency as your grass grows. Our lawn mowing tips and tricks can help you avoid problems and promote a dense lawn.

Warm-season grasses

Warm-season grasses experience their most active growth from mid-spring to early fall. Let your grass reach 3 to 4 inches before giving it that first trim. Continue cutting your grass as needed, especially if the temperatures are warm and there’s natural precipitation. 

Pro tip: During the hottest months, adjust your lawn mower to a taller height to help your grass retain moisture and withstand heat stress.

Winter mowing (both cool-season and warm-season grasses)

Once temperatures start dropping in the fall, keep up with your regular mowing, but monitor grass growth. As it slows, your lawn won’t need cuts as frequently. Gradually lower the mowing height to prepare your grass for winter dormancy. Around November, you’ll find that you only need to mow your lawn occasionally, eventually stopping altogether as winter sets in.

Warm-season grasses are more likely to enter dormancy due to their reduced resistance to cold temperatures, but cool-season grasses can also nap if the ground freezes. You can put your lawn mower away, but keep an eye on the weather. Short spurts of warmer weather can activate sporadic growth.

Get rid of weeds

Weeds are an ongoing lawn care problem, which is why employing preventative weed control strategies can help. Whether you choose the post-emergent or pre-emergent approach, both practices can effectively eradicate and prevent common weeds, like:

• Bluegrass (poa annua)
• Prickly lettuce 
• Mouse-ear chickweed
• Hairy bittercress
• Deadnettle
• Henbit
• Foxtail
• Crabgrass
• Clover
• Dandelions 
• Ragweed 
• Bindweed
• Oxalis
• Chickweed

Post-emergent herbicides

Post-emergent herbicides control weeds that have germinated and emerged from the soil. 

The best time of year to start post-emergent weed control is in early to late spring when weeds are young and actively growing. If you’re struggling with broadleaf weeds, opt for an early spring application, as this is when they emerge. Meanwhile, grassy weeds usually sprout in late spring to early summer, which is when you should double down on your weed control efforts.

Some weeds, including henbit, hairy bittercress, and marestail, germinate in late summer and emerge in the fall. If you notice weeds popping up after summer has passed, you can opt for a post-emergent application at this time.

Apply post-emergent herbicide when the daytime temperature is under 85 degrees, and the soil temperature is above 55 degrees for at least three days. Once the outside temperature exceeds 85 degrees, killing the weeds usually takes more than one application.

Pro tip: Wait until your grass has recovered from drought or disease before applying a post-emergent, as stressed-out weeds can struggle to take in any weed killer.

Pre-emergent herbicides

Pre-emergent herbicides inhibit seed cell division and stop weed growth. They deprive the weed seeds of essential nutrients and create a chemical barrier in the top layer of the soil, preventing root development. 

Apply your pre-emergent from August to November to kill weeds germinating when temperatures drop. Consider a fall application even if your grass looks weed-free at the beginning of the fall.

There are also weeds that emerge in spring or summer, develop and produce seed during the summer, and die when the first frost hits. To prevent appearance, apply pre-emergent herbicide in early spring (around mid-March), after your grass or flowers have started growing but before weed germination has started. 

The timing must be right to avoid killing all seeds in the ground (for example, if you’ve overseeded).

Eliminate pests

You may excel at watering, aeration, and fertilization, but pest control could still present a problem. If your grass looks sparse and has brown patches, it might be pests feeding on your turf’s roots.

The insects that attack lawns are varied and the damage they leave behind can throw you for a loop. To make identification easier, we’ve rounded up some of the most common lawn pests homeowners have to deal with.

Remember: The best prevention plan for lawn pests includes routine lawn maintenance, such as proper mowing, aeration, dethatching, fertilization, and water drainage. Don’t forget to minimize stress on your grass (keep herbicide use and foot traffic to a minimum during hot and dry months) and monitor your lawn regularly.

Billbugs

Billbugs are small weevils or beetles that threaten turfgrass and landscape plants. They have elongated snouts and an oval-shaped body that reaches 0.5 inches in length. These invaders feed on grassroots and plants, and they’re not concerned about whether you have warm-season or cool-season grass. 

Although the adults can pull their weight, it’s the grub larvae that can decimate your lawn. They tunnel through the soil and greedily consume any roots they find, destroying your lawn. 

• Elimination: The best methods to control billbugs include proper fertilization and watering, thatch management, and routine mowing.  
• Preferred grass type: All turfgrass roots
• Active months: Late spring to late summer (May through August)

Chinch bugs

Chinch bugs are tiny, sap-loving insects that can cause costly damage to your lawn. They prefer warm-season varieties. Chinch bugs are difficult to spot, being less than 0.25 inches in size. While red in adolescence, they turn black and develop white wings on their backs in adulthood.

Chinch bugs infest thatch layers but can also be found on grass leaves when populations are large. They prefer hot, sunny, dry environments and typically gather near paved areas like sidewalks and driveways. 

• Elimination: Proper lawn care coupled with chemical pesticide applications are the best methods for eliminating chinch bugs. 
• Preferred grass type: Warm-season grass, especially St. Augustine
• Active months: Late spring to early fall (May through October)

Cutworms 

Cutworms are caterpillars that cut through the stems of young plants at ground level, causing the plants to wilt and collapse. They attack anything from ornamental plants to vegetables and crops. Cutworms are generally smooth and soft-bodied, with varying colors and patterns.

These insects are night feeders, typically hiding in the soil during the day. They can produce multiple generations a year (typically two to six), but they cause the most damage in spring. 

• Elimination: Cutworms are best eliminated with chemical pesticides. For localized infestations on landscape plants, hand removal is also an option. 
• Preferred grass type: Perennial ryegrass, bentgrass, or annual bluegrass
• Active months: Early spring to mid-summer (April through July)

Grubs 

Also known as white grubs, these c-shaped insects are legless, have soft bodies, and can significantly damage your lawn. Grubs are the larvae form of various beetle-type insects, including: 

• Japanese beetles
• Masked chafers
• European chafers
• Billbugs
• June bugs

Grubs can be identified by their rastral pattern (the arrangement of spines around their anal opening). After being laid in the ground as eggs, they hatch into larvae and feed until they transform into pupa. 

These pests exist in various habitats, including soil, decaying organic matter, and plant roots. While some grubs play essential roles in ecosystems by aiding in decomposition and nutrient cycling, others can negatively impact lawn care and agricultural practices. 

• Elimination: If we’re talking about grub elimination, identify the problem and choose a chemical or natural approach for controlling the pest population in your yard.
• Preferred grass type: All turfgrass
• Active months: Late spring to early fall (May through September)

Sod webworms 

Sod webworms sport smooth, cylindrical bodies and measure about an inch in length. They get their name from the silky tunnels they carve on lawns, golf courses, and other turfgrass areas. Sod webworms like to feast on grass leaves and stems, leaving irregular brown patches in their wake. Another clue is the presence of small moths flying around the grass surface.

• Elimination: During humid summers, getting rid of sod webworms can be quite a challenge. To gain the upper hand, implement nematodes into your lawn care routine, use insecticides, and keep thatch under control. 
• Preferred grass type: Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, bermudagrass, and perennial ryegrass
• Active months: Late spring to early fall (May through September)

FAQ about thickening up your lawn

Do fungal diseases go away on their own?

Unfortunately, fungal diseases don’t clear up on their own. In most cases, fungi can destroy your entire lawn if you don’t act. Timely fungicide application is the only way to get rid of lawn disease and save your lawn.

Does the condition of my lawn mower affect the quality of my grass?

Your lawn care equipment should be in perfect working condition at all times. Otherwise, you risk tearing and stressing the grass, leaving it open to pests and diseases. Some key maintenance checks you should perform regularly include:

• If your lawn mower is gas-powered, make sure you have enough gas.
• If your lawn mower is battery-powered, check and charge it if necessary.
• Sharpen or replace your lawn mower’s blades as needed.
• Check your lawn mower’s spark plugs and air, oil, and fuel filters.

What role does sunlight play in achieving thick grass?

Sunlight is essential to growing a thick lawn and keeping it that way. This is because:

• Sunlight helps grass undergo photosynthesis, the process by which it gets energy for growth.
• Sunlight helps grass gain better access to water and nutrients via a healthy root system.
• Sunlight dries the grass blades and soil surface, reducing the chances of fungal disease development and pest attacks.
• Sunlight helps the grass grow thick and strong, which in turn shades the soil and helps prevent weeds.

Have a healthy lawn without the hassle

Getting a thick, healthy lawn requires dedication and consistency, but the end result is well worth the effort. 

We get it, though. Lawn care isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. Or perhaps you just don’t have the time for maintenance tasks. That’s where a local pro comes in. They can take over and keep your lawn thick and healthy. Who doesn’t like the sound of that?

Main Photo Credit: Needpix