Since warm-season grass grows most during the summer, warm-season lawn maintenance is most intense from late spring into early fall. Homeowners in the Deep South will need to do lawn care in winter, though.
This infographic will tell you what lawn care tasks to do and when to do them for your warm-season grass.
Let’s get into the specifics of warm-season lawn care for each season:
Warm-season grass includes bahiagrass, Bermudagrass, buffalograss, carpetgrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysiagrass. If you don’t have warm-season grass, you should check out our cool-season grass lawn care calendar.
Spring warm-season lawn care: March, April, May
In colder climates, warm-season grass will wake up from its winter slumber in spring. Once the temperatures consistently hit the 60s, warm-season grasses start growing again.
Here are the spring lawn care tasks you have to accomplish:
- Clean up the yard
- Buy lawn care supplies
- Repair and maintain the mower and lawn care equipment
- Check the Irrigation system
- Test the soil and add amendments
- Apply fungicides
- Dethatch
- Aerate
- Control weeds
- Overseed or lay sod
- Fertilize
- Add topdressing
- Mow
- Control pests
You can also read our “Tips for Spring Lawn Care” article to learn more.
Keep in mind that the exact timing for these tasks will be different based on where you live. Some areas will get 60-degree temperatures later than others.
- In the northern half of the transition zone (where certain Zoysia and Bermuda varieties grow), warm temperatures can come as late as May. Some states in this area are Delaware and West Virginia.
- In the furthest reaches of the South (like the Florida Keys), temperatures may not get cold enough to force warm-season grasses into winter dormancy.
If you’re too busy to take care of your warm-season lawn this spring, why not hire a lawn care professional to do it for you through Lawn Love?
Clean up the yard
Over the winter, leaves and debris may have fallen or accumulated on your lawn. Make sure to clean them up as soon as you can with a rake or a leaf blower.
In the northern parts of the transition zone, you may have snow up to April or May. If you have snow, don’t step on your lawn. You could injure it otherwise. Just spread the snow evenly with a rake to make it melt faster.
Buy lawn care supplies
In areas with snow during early to mid-spring, it’s the perfect time to stock up on lawn care supplies like fertilizer, mowers, weed killers, and soil amendments.
Repair and maintain the mower and lawn care equipment
Check your lawn care equipment before the big spring rush of lawn care duties so you’re ready.
Here’s a checklist of things you need to do:
- Sharpen mower blades and other cutting tools
- Perform a lawn mower tune-up
- Repair broken lawn equipment
- Clean your mower
- Replace string trimmer line
- Get fresh gas or new batteries
Set aside a weekend to check your equipment during early spring before the cutting season begins. You’ll find these articles useful if you’d like to maintain your tools yourself:
- “How to Sharpen Lawn Mower Blades”
- “Best Lawn Mower Maintenance Practices”
- “How to Repair a Lawn Mower”
- “How to Put String in a Weed Eater”
Check the irrigation system
Some areas that grow warm-season grass can get freezing temperatures. Homeowners living in those areas should have winterized their sprinklers.
Before turning your sprinklers on, check your irrigation system for issues. You should only turn your sprinklers on when all threats of hard freezes have passed.
If you live in a warmer climate, you should check your sprinklers at least once a year. Early spring is a good time to check since you will be using the system regularly.
To learn more about sprinkler system maintenance, check out these guides:
Test the soil and add amendments
A soil test will reveal soil texture, pH level, and nutrient deficiencies. While you can test your soil as long as it’s not frozen or wet, spring is a good time to do it so you can find issues before your turf’s active growing season. Here are some articles on soil testing that you might find helpful:
If your soil test says you have a low pH level, you’ll need to apply lime. While you can do it in the spring, it’s better to apply lime in the fall. If you have a high pH level, you’ll need to apply sulfur, which is best applied in spring. You can learn more about soil amendments and why you might need them in these articles:
- “What Are the Different Types of Soil Amendments for Your Lawn?”
- Soil pH issues:
- “What is Acidic Soil?”
- “How to Change Your Soil pH” (contains a guide on how to lower soil pH with sulfur)
- “Complete Guide to Different Soil Types” (for soil texture)
If your soil has nutrient deficiencies, you will likely need fertilizer. We’ll talk about fertilizers more below.
Apply fungicides
Spring brings cool temperatures and rain. Those are perfect conditions for fungi that cause lawn diseases. Some common warm-season lawn diseases are:
- Dollar spot
- Fairy ring
- Large patch
- Leaf spot and melting out
- Spring dead spot
- Turfgrass rust (commonly affects Zoysiagrass)
You may need to use fungicides to kill lawn fungus. If you would like to learn more about different grass diseases and how to cure them, check out this article: “How to Identify and Treat Grass Fungus.”
You can also check out these grass-specific lawn disease articles:
- “5 Common Bermudagrass Diseases”
- “Most Common Diseases in St. Augustinegrass”
- “Most Common Diseases Affecting Zoysiagrass”
Dethatch
Dethatching is the process of removing excess thatch from your lawn. It’s an invasive lawn care procedure that should only be done near or early in your lawn’s active growth season. It’s better to wait closer to late spring (May) before dethatching warm-season grass.
Your lawn will only need dethatching if the thatch layer is more than ½-inch thick. If you’re not sure if your grass needs to be dethatched or if you’re curious about how to dethatch your lawn, then check out these articles:
- “What is Thatch?”
- “What is Dethatching?” (also has a guide on how to dethatch your lawn)
Aerate
Aeration is a similarly invasive lawn care procedure. Lawn aeration is the act of loosening the soil by poking holes in the soil. Your lawn might need to be aerated if you have clay soil (more common in the Southern and Eastern U.S., except for Florida) or if it gets a lot of foot traffic. These lawns are more likely to have compacted soil.
If you’d like to learn more about aeration and soil compaction, you can read our guides here:
Soil compaction:
Aeration:
- “How to Aerate Your Lawn”
- “Benefits of Aerating Your Lawn”
- “Core Aeration vs. Spike Aeration”
- “How to Aerate a Lawn by Hand”
- “When to Aerate Your Lawn”
Control weeds
Spring is a busy time for weed prevention and eradication. You’ll be applying pre-emergent weed killers to prevent summer annuals, while also dealing with winter annuals that sprouted in the previous seasons.
It’s important to apply pre-emergents at the right time, especially if you’re looking to prevent crabgrass. Apply pre-emergent herbicides when soil temps reach 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer areas, you may be able to use pre-emergents as early as March or even February (late winter).
Here are some articles on pre-emergent herbicides:
- “When and How to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides”
- “Types of Pre-Emergent Herbicides”
- “Does Corn Gluten Meal Work on Weeds?” (a natural alternative)
- “Best Pre-Emergent Herbicides” (product review)
Using a post-emergent herbicide is not the only way to kill weeds already on your lawn. Other weed removal methods include hand-pulling and solarization.
We don’t recommend using weed and feed on your warm-season lawn if you’re looking to kill winter annuals. The timing for weed control and fertilizing your turf may not line up perfectly.
You can read more about spring weed control in these articles:
- “How to Get Rid of Weeds in Grass”
- “Most Common Lawn Weeds (and How to Get Rid of Them)”
- “How to Control Annual Weeds vs. Perennial Weeds”
- “Common Broadleaf Weeds Found in Your Yard”
- “How to Identify and Control Broadleaf Weeds”
- “How to Identify and Control Grassy Weeds”
Overseed or lay sod
Does your turf have a lot of bare spots? One of the ways to fix a patchy lawn is overseeding, which is spreading grass seed over an existing lawn.
The best time to overseed your warm-season grass is late spring and summer. Warm-season grass seed sprouts best when the soil temperature is around 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (80 degrees in air temperature).
If you want to learn more about overseeding and its benefits, check out these articles:
- “What is Overseeding?”
- “Steps to Overseed a Lawn”
- “Overseeding in Spring”
- “How to Grow Grass”
- “How to Plant Grass Seed”
- “Tips for Growing Grass in Shady Areas”
- “How to Plant Grass Seed on Hard Dirt”
- “How to Plant Grass Seed on a Slope”
You can also lay down sod instead. While you can lay sod as long as the temperatures aren’t freezing, late spring is one of the better times to lay down warm-season sod. This option is the best for homeowners who want an instant lawn.
Note: St. Augustinegrass only comes in sod form. If you need to patch up a St. Augustinegrass lawn, you’ll need to install sod.
New grass has different care requirements than an established lawn. Here are some articles that will help you keep your new grass alive:
- “Best Ways to Grow Grass Fast”
- How Long Does It Take New Grass Seed to Grow?
- “How Long to Water New Grass Seed”
- “How Often to Water Grass Seed”
- “Will Fertilizer Kill New Grass?”
- “A Complete Guide to Fertilizing New Grass”
- “How Long After Overseeding Can I Mow?”
Fertilize
Your warm-season grass needs nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (otherwise known as N-P-K) to grow properly. So, you’ll need to fertilize your lawn when it’s actively growing, especially if your soil test says your soil has a nutrient deficiency. Late spring to early summer is the most ideal time to fertilize your warm-season grass.
What fertilizer should I use? It depends. A professional soil test may tell you the right fertilizer ratio for your lawn (denoted by three numbers that correspond to N-P-K). Otherwise, you can’t go wrong with a balanced fertilizer.
If you want to know more about fertilizing your warm-season lawn, check out these guides:
- “Fertilizer 101: How to Fertilize Your Lawn”
- “Ways to Apply Fertilizer”
- “Fertilizer Basics: What to Look for in Your Fertilizer”
- “How Often Should You Fertilize Your Lawn?”
- “When is the Best Time to Fertilize Your Lawn?”
- “Can You Combine Organic and Inorganic Fertilizer?”
- “Effective Homemade Fertilizers for Your Lawn”
If you’re not sure about what fertilizer to buy, try out a fertilizer we’ve reviewed:
- “Best Lawn Fertilizers”
- Grass-specific:
- “Best Fertilizer Spreaders”
Add topdressing
If you’ve done all these steps but your grass still isn’t looking good, you might need to topdress your lawn. Topdressing is the act of laying down a thin layer of organic material over your lawn to amend the soil.
Wait until late spring to topdress a warm-season lawn.
Mow
The first mow of the season will depend on where you’re located:
- Homeowners in the transition zone will likely mow their lawns by the end of May.
- Those further south might be able to mow as early as March.
- If you live far enough south, you may not have even stopped mowing in the winter.
You should only mow if your grass is long enough. You don’t want to mow grass that has just greened up without any significant growth. Always follow the one-third rule, and never scalp your lawn unless you’re sure your lawn needs it.
You likely won’t need to mow more than once a week until it gets closer to summer.
Here are some guides on how to mow your lawn properly:
Control pests
Spring brings forth new life. Unfortunately, some of these creatures include lawn pests. If the pest problem gets too bad, you might need to kill them with pesticides.
Take a look at these articles for more information on spring pest control:
- “Common Spring Lawn Pests” (also discusses the signs, elimination methods, and prevention)
- “Organic Pest Control Options”
- “How to Use Beneficial Nematodes for Pest Control”
- Grass-specific pest articles:
You also may be interested in our guide to Integrated Pest Management, a more sustainable and environmentally friendly method of keeping pests in check.
Summer warm-season lawn care: June, July, August
Summer is the peak of your warm-season lawn’s growing season, as these grasses grow best in 85 to 95 Fahrenheit temperatures. That means more work to do this season – even more than spring. The number of tasks may seem fewer, but you’ll be mowing more often.
Southern homeowners should make sure to always keep themselves hydrated and well-protected against the sun when doing lawn care. Avoid doing lawn maintenance during the middle of the day or else you might get severe sunburns and heat stroke. Humidity also will make these 90-degree temperatures feel much worse.
Those in the transition zone won’t have to worry too much about searing-hot temperatures – at least, not as hot as the South. But you should still take similar precautions.
Here are the lawn care tasks you need to do in the summer months:
- Mow high
- Water the lawn
- Fertilize
- Apply fungicides
- Dethatch
- Aerate
- Control weeds
- Overseed or lay sod
- Control grubs and pests
If you would rather have fun in the sun this summer, try hiring a pro near you to take care of your lawn. Then you’ll be able to hit the pool (or the beach) without guilt.
Mow high
Grasses growing in hot temperatures will benefit tremendously from being mowed high. The University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences Extension (UF/IFAS Extension) says a higher mowing height influences grass roots to grow deeper. A deeper root system is more tolerant of stressors like drought.
How high should you mow? Mow your grass down to the tallest height recommended for its species. Generally, most warm-season grasses can be mowed down to 2 inches (save for non-dwarf varieties of St. Augustine). You can find out your turf’s ideal height in this article: “How High Should You Cut Your Grass?”
You also should consider grasscycling this summer if you haven’t already started. Grasscycling is the practice of leaving grass clippings on your lawn instead of bagging them. It has many benefits including retaining soil moisture.
Here are some articles about grasscycling:
- “What is Grasscycling?” (also mentions the benefits of grasscycling)
- “Bagging vs. Mulching Grass Clippings”
Typically, you grasscycle with a mulching lawn mower. However, it’s not always an option for homeowners living in areas with wet summers (such as Florida, Tennessee, Georgia, and Alabama). Mulching mowers don’t cut wet grass well.
Pro tip: Use a side-discharge mower if you can’t find a dry day to mow your grass. It cuts wet grass cleanly without choking.
If you live in a drier part of the country (such as Texas, Southern California, and Nevada), you will have to worry more about when not to mow. You will likely need to stop mowing during drought conditions if your grass has gone dormant. You can learn more in this guide: “When Not to Mow Your Lawn”.
Water the lawn
You will need to give your warm-season grass 1 inch of water per week during the summer months, ideally spread out throughout the week in long sessions.
If you live somewhere with a lot of summer rain, postpone irrigation if it rains on the day you were supposed to water your lawn. You don’t want to overwater.
Pro tip: Install a rain sensor on your sprinkler system so it automatically shuts off when there has been enough rain to keep your turf hydrated.
Water early in the morning before the temperatures get too hot to avoid scalding your grass or having the water evaporate before your grass can absorb it.
You can learn more about lawn irrigation in these articles:
- “When and How to Water Your Lawn”
- “How Long Should You Water Your Lawn?”
- “When Is the Best Time to Water Your Grass?”
- “What Temperature is Too Hot to Water Your Grass?”
- “When is the Best Time to Water Your Lawn in Hot Weather?”
- “How Often Should I Water My Lawn with a Sprinkler System?”
What if I have a drought? If you want a green lawn, you may need to water your grass more. If you don’t mind brown turf, water it normally and let it go dormant if it’s not enough. Water every few weeks to keep it alive but still dormant.
You can learn more about maintaining your lawn in a drought in these guides:
- “How to Prepare Your Lawn for Drought”
- “How to Maintain Your Lawn During a Drought”
- “How to Help Your Lawn Recover from Drought”
We recommend planting drought-tolerant turfgrass if you live somewhere where drought is common. One drought-tolerant warm-season grass is bahiagrass.
Note: Some areas may have watering restrictions. Always check with your local authorities.
Fertilize
Now that your grass is actively growing, it will need more nutrients than ever to support that growth. Ideally, you should fertilize your grass in early summer before the daily temperatures get too hot. You might consider a fertilizer application in June.
What happens if I fertilize when it’s too hot? When it’s really hot out, your grass may be under heat stress. In these conditions, you don’t want to make your grass grow; the new growth may not handle the heat. Also, you’re more likely to stress your grass out more if the fertilizer burns your lawn. Don’t fertilize during the peak of summer heat, which is usually in July.
Pro tip: Use a slow-release fertilizer to lessen the chance of fertilizer burn.
Apply fungicides
Because summer is rather humid in some areas, it shouldn’t be surprising to know that lawn diseases also pop up during this season. Some common fungal diseases you might encounter in the summer are:
- Turfgrass rust (commonly affects Zoysiagrass)
- Leaf spot and meting out
- Fairy rings
- Anthracnose
- Dollar spot
If worse comes to worst, you may need to use a fungicide to rid your lawn of disease.
Dethatch
Early summer – just before the intense heat of the season – is the best time to dethatch your lawn. Your grass will have already greened up by now and is actively growing, so it can easily bounce back from the stress dethatching will put it under.
If you wait too long in the season, it’ll be too hot to dethatch. Heat also can stress out your turf. You also should postpone dethatching if your lawn is stressed.
Aerate
Early summer is also a good time to aerate your warm-season lawn if your soil is compacted. Doing it at this time will allow your turf to recover from any damage it sustains from this lawn care procedure.
Control weeds
Early summer is not the time to apply pre-emergent weed control. If you see weeds, then it’s definitely too late; you’ll need to use a post-emergent herbicide on them to kill them. You can also pull them out or use other methods to get rid of them. You also can use weed and feed on your warm-season grass this summer.
If you’re dealing with weeds this summer, you might want to read these guides:
- “How and When to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides”
- “Types of Post-Emergent Herbicides”
- “Non-Toxic Ways to Kill Weeds”
- “How to Use Salt to Kill Weeds”
- “How to Make a Homemade Weed Killer”
- “Is Weed and Feed Bad for Your Lawn?”
- “How and When to Apply Weed and Feed on Your Lawn”
However, late summer (around August) is a good time to apply pre-emergent to prevent winter annual weeds from taking over your lawn.
If you’re looking for suggestions for herbicides, check out these articles:
Overseed or lay sod
Is your lawn looking patchy? Early summer is the best time to overseed your grass to make it thick and lush again. If you wait too long to overseed, your young grass will have to contend with the blistering heat and it may not survive.
Summer is also the best time to lay sod. However, you’ll need to keep an eye on the sod to make sure it doesn’t dry out while its roots are still weak. If you want to learn more about laying sod, check out this guide: “How to Install Sod”.
Control pests and grubs
Pests will continue to attack your lawn throughout the summer. Early summer (around June) is prime time for grub prevention. Some other summer pests you might find are armyworms and chinch bugs.
Fall warm-season lawn care: September, October, November
Once fall arrives, your lawn care routine will start to slow down as your turf’s growing season draws to a close. Warm-season grasses start to go dormant when the average temperature reaches 50 to 55 Fahrenheit. The timing for your last lawn care tasks for the year will change based on where you live:
- In the transition zone, warm-season grasses can go dormant by mid-October.
- In the southern half of the country, such temperatures may not come until early winter (December).
Here are the tasks you have to accomplish this fall:
- Apply fungicides
- Apply soil amendments
- Control weeds
- Overseed
- Fertilize
- Control pests
- Mow for the last time
- Clean up the yard
- Winterize your lawn
Although lawn care for warm-season grass starts slowing down in the fall, sometimes life gets hectic. If you ever need a hand, connect with a lawn care pro near you through Lawn Love.
Apply fungicides
There aren’t as many lawn diseases that affect warm-season grasses in the fall. The most common ones are:
- Large patch
- Dollar spot
- Leaf spot and melting out
Using fungicides will likely cure your lawn of diseases if it has them.
Apply soil amendments
If your soil is acidic, then you may need to amend your soil with lime. Fall is the best time to lime your lawn, as lime needs a lot of time to break down and affect your soil’s pH.
Only lime your lawn if you’re sure that your soil has a low pH level. Ideally, you should have had your soil tested in the spring, but you also can conduct a soil test in the fall.
Control weeds
Fall is the time to use pre-emergent weed control to prevent winter annual weeds if you didn’t do it in August.
The fall season is also a good time to target perennial weeds. During the fall, many broadleaf weeds will be storing energy in their roots to get through the winter (however mild it may be). Post-emergent weed killers will then be brought to weed roots too, which is very effective.
Areas where warm-season grasses grow generally don’t experience temperatures low enough to interfere with herbicide efficacy. Just make sure to apply them no later than the mid-60s for the best results. Otherwise, you’ll need to pull the weeds out.
Overseed
Fall is not a good time to overseed your warm-season lawn if you’re trying to patch it up. However, it’s the perfect time to overseed your lawn for winter color.
If your grass goes dormant but you want a green lawn year-round, you can overseed with annual ryegrass. It thrives in the cooler temperatures but dies out after the warm-season grasses green up in the spring.
Note: Bermudagrass does the best with winter overseeding. Centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysiagrass don’t do as well with ryegrass overseeding.
When should you overseed with annual ryegrass? The UF/IFAS Extension recommends seeding when temperatures hover consistently around the mid to low 70s.
Fertilize
Your last fertilizer application should be in early September. You don’t want to fertilize any later than that as your grass will be gearing up to go dormant. So, it won’t be as effective and you will have wasted fertilizer.
Control pests
Grubs are on their way out this time of year, but you may still have a chance to treat them in September. But don’t let your guard down against pesky pests. Some fall lawn pests you may have to deal with are:
- Cutworms (a type of caterpillar)
- Mole crickets
- Sod webworms
Mow for the last time
The timing of the last mow of the season will depend on where you live. You want to keep mowing until your grass stops growing or once it goes dormant. You can gradually lower the mowing height to allow better airflow and water drainage but never go below the recommended height for your grass type.
Warm-season grass growth slows down at around 60 degrees Fahrenheit, so you can check your local weather forecast to find out if it’s nearly time to stop mowing. If you live really far south, you won’t be free from mowing duties just yet (if at all).
- In the transition zone, warm-season grasses can go dormant by mid-October.
- In the southern half of the country, such temperatures may not come until early winter (December).
These articles will help answer any questions you have about mowing your grass this fall:
Clean up your yard
The fall brings a burst of warm color, but some homeowners may dislike it because their lawns become messy from the fallen leaves. You’ll want to rake or blow leaves off of your lawn to prevent them from smothering your grass. Leaves can also harbor pests.
These guides will help you clean your lawn properly this fall:
Winterize your lawn
Lawn winterization is crucial to ensuring your turfgrass won’t suffer through the winter. Most of the tasks you’ve done count toward winterizing your lawn. However, you might want to check out our guide on “How to Winterize Your Lawn” so you’re on the right track.
If you live in an area with freezing temperatures, you’ll also need to winterize your sprinklers and lawn mower. Not doing so can cause them to break. Here are some articles that will help you:
- “How to Winterize Your Sprinkler System”
- “How to Winterize Your Lawn Equipment: A Step-by-Step Guide”
If you live in subtropical temperatures, you won’t need to do this.
Winter warm-season lawn care: December, January, February
For homeowners with colder temperatures, winter is a rather lax season for lawn care. There’s not much to do except water your lawn every now and then. You may need to mow maybe once in the whole season.
It is good to keep these things in mind though:
- Avoid foot traffic
- Apply weed control
- Irrigate your lawn
- Mow if needed
If you’d like a more detailed guide on winter lawn care, check out this guide here: “Winter Lawn Care for Warm Climates”.
You also could hire a local lawn care professional through Lawn Love to take care of your lawn from time to time during the winter months.
Avoid foot traffic
Once your lawn has gone dormant, try not to step on it repeatedly. If your lawn sustains wear and tear from foot traffic, it’ll only be able to recover after it greens up in the spring.
Limit any activities to one section of the lawn.
Apply weed control
If you see weeds on your lawn, spray them or pull them out. Some winter annuals you might see this season are:
- Chickweed
- Purple deadnettle
- Henbit
If the temperature gets warm enough in late winter, apply pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer annuals and other spring weeds.
Irrigate your lawn
Although your lawn needs less water in the winter, it still needs to be irrigated to stay alive. Your grass will need one-half inch of water a week.
You may need to turn off your sprinkler system or switch to manual irrigation to prevent overwatering.
You may find our guide on watering your lawn useful if you’re not sure about winter lawn irrigation.
Mow if needed
Some grasses will continue growing very slowly throughout winter. You may need to mow your lawn at some point this season if it starts looking unruly. Don’t mow if your grass isn’t growing.
If you need to mow your lawn, mow at the same height or higher to protect your warm-season grass from the colder temperatures.
FAQ about warm-season lawn care
How often should you do lawn maintenance?
The frequency of your lawn care tasks varies:
- Irrigation should be done two or three times a week. However, you can get away with watering less when it’s rainy and cold.
- Mowing is done once a week or more during the peak growing season.
- Fertilizer should be applied three times a year (or up to four times a year, if necessary).
- Aeration, dethatching, and soil amendments should be done as needed.
- Soil testing should be done every few years unless you’re monitoring the results of your soil amendments. If that’s the case, test your soil yearly.
What warm-season grasses are easy to care for?
The easiest warm-season grasses to care for include buffalograss, centipedegrass, and certain Zoysiagrass varieties. You can learn more about low-maintenance grasses in this article: “Low-Maintenance Grasses as Grass Alternatives”.
If you want to see the care requirements for each type of warm-season grass, check out these articles:
What order should I do lawn maintenance?
Generally, more intensive and invasive lawn procedures should be performed before less intensive ones.
For example, you should aerate and dethatch before overseeding and fertilizing your lawn. Otherwise, you’ll move around the seeds and fertilizer, resulting in uneven, patchy growth.
Hire a lawn care pro to maintain your warm-season lawn
Caring for a warm-season lawn can be really hectic at times, especially in the summertime. Whether you’re a busy homeowner or one that would rather spend their weekends on R&R, take your time back by having a pro maintain your lawn for you.
Lawn Love has pros ready to serve homeowners across the country. Lighten your load by connecting with a pro near you today.
Main photo credit: Stickpen | Wikimedia Commons | Public domain
