Lawn Care Calendar for Warm-Season Grass

Key takeaways
• Peak season is late spring to early summer: Warm-season grass greens up once temperatures stay in the 60s and grows fastest in 85-to-95-degree heat.
• Time tasks to the season: Dethatch and aerate in late spring or early summer, fertilize from late spring to early summer, and overseed with annual ryegrass in fall for winter color.
• Winter care depends on your region: Deep South lawns still need occasional watering, weed control, and mowing, while transition-zone lawns go dormant and need almost none.
Lawn Care Calendar for Warm-Season Grass

This warm-season grass lawn care calendar shows which lawn tasks to tackle each season, from spring green-up through winter dormancy. Warm-season grasses grow most in summer, so their care is most intense from late spring into early fall.

Deep South lawns need attention through winter, while transition-zone lawns go dormant and rest. The infographic below sums up the year, and the guide breaks down each task.

Warm-season grass includes bahiagrass, Bermudagrass, buffalograss, carpetgrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysiagrass. If you don’t have warm-season grass, check out our cool-season grass lawn care calendar. When the seasonal to-do list feels like a lot, Lawn Love’s lawn care service can take it off your plate.

Lawn Care Calendar for Warm-Season Grass
Lawn Care Calendar for Warm-Season Grass Photo Credit: Infographic by Juan Rodriguez
SeasonTemperature triggerTop priority tasks
Spring (Mar-May)Grass greens up once temperatures stay in the 60sClean up, dethatch, aerate, pre-emergent weed control, overseed, fertilize
Summer (Jun-Aug)Fastest growth at 85 to 95 degreesMow high often, water 1 inch weekly, early-summer fertilizing, pest control
Fall (Sep-Nov)Grass slows and goes dormant near 50 to 55 degreesLast fertilizing by early September, overseed for winter color, leaf cleanup, winterize
Winter (Dec-Feb)Dormant in most areas; active in the Deep SouthLight watering, spot weed control, mow only if it grows

Spring warm-season lawn care: March, April, May

Spring lawn care begins once temperatures consistently reach the 60s and the grass starts growing again. Warm-season turf begins spring green-up once soil temperatures reach 65 degrees, though exact timing varies by region.

  • Clean up the yard

  • Buy lawn care supplies

  • Repair and maintain the mower and equipment

  • Check the irrigation system

  • Test the soil and add amendments

  • Apply fungicides

  • Dethatch

  • Aerate

  • Control weeds

  • Overseed or lay sod

  • Fertilize

  • Add topdressing

  • Mow

  • Control pests

Map of the United States showing cool-season grass, warm-season grass, and transition zones.
Map of the United States showing cool-season grass, warm-season grass, and transition zones. Photo Credit: Infographic by Juan Rodriguez
  • In the northern half of the transition zone (where certain Zoysia and Bermuda varieties grow), warm temperatures can come as late as May, in states such as Delaware and West Virginia.

  • In the furthest reaches of the South (like the Florida Keys), it may never get cold enough to force dormancy.

Clean up the yard

Rake or blow away leaves and debris that piled up over winter. If you still have snow, don’t walk on your lawn; spread it evenly with a rake so it melts faster.

Buy lawn care supplies

In areas with early-spring snow, it’s a good time to stock up on fertilizer, weed killers, and soil amendments.

Repair and maintain the mower and lawn care equipment

illustration depicting the grass cut with a sharp blade vs a dull blade
illustration depicting the grass cut with a sharp blade vs a dull blade Photo Credit: Infographic by Juan Rodriguez

Get your equipment ready before the spring rush:

  • Sharpen mower blades and cutting tools

  • Perform a lawn mower tune-up

  • Repair broken equipment

  • Clean your mower

  • Replace string trimmer line

  • Get fresh gas or new batteries

Check the irrigation system

Inspect your irrigation system before use, and only turn sprinklers on once all threats of hard freezes have passed. In warmer climates, check your sprinklers at least once a year.

Test the soil and add amendments

A spring soil test reveals pH and nutrient gaps before the growing season. If it shows deficiencies, you’ll likely need fertilizer (more on that below).

Apply fungicides

Cool, rainy spring weather is perfect for fungal lawn diseases. Common warm-season diseases include: 

  • Dollar spot

  • Fairy ring

  • Large patch

  • Leaf spot and melting out

  • Spring dead spot

  • Turfgrass rust (commonly affects Zoysiagrass)

Apply a fungicide if disease appears.

Dethatch

Illustration comparing healthy grass and unhealthy grass, showing thick thatch layer above soil on unhealthy side and dense roots on healthy side.
Illustration comparing healthy grass and unhealthy grass, showing thick thatch layer above soil on unhealthy side and dense roots on healthy side. Photo Credit: Infographic by Juan Rodriguez

Dethatching removes excess thatch and is invasive, so wait until late spring (May), when warm-season grass is actively growing and can recover.

Aerate

Aeration loosens compacted soil. It helps most on clay soils (common across the South and East except Florida) and high-traffic lawns.

Control weeds

Spring is prime weed season: Stop summer annuals with pre-emergents while handling lingering winter annuals, especially if you want to prevent crabgrass.

Apply pre-emergent herbicides before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees, or as early as February in warm areas. Skip weed and feed when targeting winter annuals, since the timing rarely lines up.

Repair patches if necessary.

“For warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass, overseeding an established stand with another warm-season grass is not a common practice, because these grasses can spread vegetatively and naturally fill thin or damaged areas during active growth,” says Manuel Roman S. Chavarria Sanchez, assistant professor of Turfgrass Stress Physiology at Texas A&M University.

If your turf is not performing well, he says to evaluate soil compaction, irrigation and mowing routines, water quality, fertility, shade, drainage, traffic, and pest problems before overseeding.

The best time to overseed your warm-season grass is late spring and summer. Warm-season grass seed sprouts best when the soil temperature is around 65 to 75 degrees (80 degrees in air temperature).

You can also lay down sod instead. While you can lay sod as long as the temperatures aren’t freezing, late spring is one of the better times to lay down warm-season sod.

Fertilize

one man farmer is fertilizing the lawn soil. male hand of worker, Fertilizer For Lawns in springtime for the perfect lawn. Organic lawn fertilizer in man's hand on garden
It’s best to fertilize warm-season grasses in late spring or early summer. Photo Credit: ImageSine | Adobe Stock

Warm-season grass needs nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K). Fertilize when it’s actively growing, ideally late spring to early summer. A soil test tells you the right ratio, but a balanced fertilizer is a safe choice.

Add topdressing

If your lawn still struggles, topdress your lawn with a thin layer of organic material in late spring.

Mow

Landscape
If you live in cooler-parts of the country, the first mow of the season will be in May. Further south you can mow as early as March. Photo Credit: Pxhere

Your first mow depends on location:

  • Transition-zone homeowners usually mow by the end of May.

  • Those further south may mow as early as March.

  • Far enough south, you may never stop mowing in winter.

Mow only once the grass shows real growth, follow the one-third rule, and never scalp. You likely won’t mow more than once a week until summer.

Control pests

Spring wakes up lawn pests. If an infestation gets severe, treat it with pesticides.

Summer warm-season lawn care: June, July, August

Summer is peak growing season, with warm-season grasses thriving in 85 to 95 degrees, so you’ll mow more often. In the South, work in the cooler morning or evening, stay hydrated, and watch for heat; transition-zone summers are milder but still call for care.

  • Mow high

  • Water the lawn

  • Fertilize

  • Apply fungicides

  • Dethatch

  • Aerate

  • Control weeds

  • Overseed or lay sod

  • Control grubs and pests

Mow high

Man mowing lawn with a lawnmower
To protect your warm-season grass from summer heat and drought, mow a little higher. Photo Credit: aboutmomentsimages | Adobe Stock

A higher mowing height encourages grass roots to grow deeper, and a deeper root system is more tolerant of stressors like drought. Mow most warm-season grasses down to 2 inches (taller for non-dwarf St. Augustine).

Keep mower blades sharp for all grass types, but especially for St. Augustine.

“Don’t even go near your St. Augustine lawn unless your mower blades are razor sharp,” says Justin Stultz, owner of Wildflower Lawn Care, in Hutto, Texas. “The wider, leafier grass blades will look very frayed if you don’t maintain your mower well.”

Consider grasscycling, leaving clippings to retain moisture, with a mulching mower; switch to a side-discharge mower for wet grass. In dry regions, you may need to stop mowing if drought pushes your lawn into dormancy.

Water the lawn

Give warm-season grass 1 inch of water per week in long sessions, and skip irrigation after rain. Water early in the morning to limit evaporation and scalding.

In areas with water restrictions, adapt the schedule.

“Sometimes we talk about soaking it in the morning, right before the sun comes up, and making sure you get one more really good watering in around 3 p.m.,” Schultz says.

“Or, if it’s super hot in the summer, you probably want to do it a little bit later,” he says, ”but just make sure you’re giving the yard enough time to dry off before nighttime, so you don’t get any mold or fungus.”

Your second option is to let it go dormant.

“It’s a normal, natural process,” Schultz says.

Fertilize

Fertilizing plants, lawns, trees and flowers. Gardener in gloves holds white fertilizer balls on grass
Warm-season grass needs nutrients before its peak growing season. Photo Credit: adragan / Adobe Stock

Actively growing grass needs nutrients, so fertilize in early summer (June) before peak heat. Fertilizing during July heat stress or over-applying can burn the lawn, so use a slow-release product.

Apply fungicides

Humid summers bring fungal diseases such as:

  • Turfgrass rust (commonly affects Zoysiagrass)

  • Leaf spot and melting out

  • Fairy rings

  • Anthracnose

  • Dollar spot

Dethatch

Early summer, just before the intense heat, is the best time to dethatch, since actively growing grass bounces back quickly. Skip it if your lawn is heat-stressed.

Aerate

illustration showing how aeration works and the benefits of aerating soil
illustration showing how aeration works and the benefits of aerating soil Photo Credit: Infographic by Juan Rodriguez

Early summer is also a good time to aerate compacted soil so your turf can recover from the stress.

Control weeds

Summer is too late for pre-emergents against summer annuals, so spot-treat existing weeds with post-emergents, hand-pulling, or weed and feed. In late summer (August), apply pre-emergent to block winter annual weeds.

Overseed or lay sod

If you’re repairing bare spots that refuse to fill in naturally or installing a new lawn, early summer is a good time.

“Warm-season grasses require warmer soil temperatures for germination and establishment, making late spring to early summer the preferred planting window,” says Becky Grubbs Bowling, assistant professor of Turfgrass Science and Management at the University of Tennessee.

Both seed and sod will need careful watering.

Avoid overseeding during extreme hot and dry weather, but also when it’s too wet, Bowling says.

“Consistent moisture is beneficial for germination, but saturated, muddy, or flooded soils can reduce establishment, cause seed to migrate, and could lead to rutting and compaction.”

Read more: How to Install Sod

Control pests and grubs

Early summer (around June) is prime time for grub prevention. Watch for armyworms and chinch bugs too.

Read more: Common Summer Lawn Pests: 12 Types and How to Get Rid of Them

Fall warm-season lawn care: September, October, November

In fall, care slows as your turf heads toward dormancy near 50 to 55 degrees. Timing varies by region:

  • In the transition zone, warm-season grasses can go dormant by mid-October.

  • In the southern half of the country, that may not happen until early winter (December).

Your fall tasks:

  • Apply fungicides

  • Apply soil amendments

  • Control weeds

  • Overseed

  • Fertilize

  • Control pests

  • Mow for the last time

  • Clean up the yard

  • Winterize your lawn

Apply fungicides

Fewer diseases hit warm-season grass in fall. The most common are: 

  • Large patch

  • Dollar spot

  • Leaf spot and melting out

Apply soil amendments

If your soil is acidic, fall is the best time to lime your lawn, since lime is slow to change pH. Only lime if a soil test confirms a low pH.

Control weeds

Plantain weed
Post-emergent herbicides knock out fall broadleaf weeds. Photo Credit: Amy Stenglein | Lawn Love

Apply fall pre-emergent for winter annuals if you missed August. Fall also targets perennial broadleaf weeds, which carry post-emergents down to their roots; apply no later than the mid-60s.

Overseed

Fall isn’t for patching, but it’s the perfect time to overseed for winter color with annual ryegrass, which greens through winter and dies back in spring. Note: Bermudagrass overseeds best; centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass do not. St. Augustinegrass only comes in sod.

For Bermudagrass, ryegrass overseeding works best about 30 days before the first frost, when daytime highs are near 70 degrees and nighttime lows stay above 50 degrees.

Read more: When to Overseed Your Lawn

Fertilize

Make your last fertilizer application by early September. Feeding later is wasted, since your grass is gearing up for dormancy.

Read more: Tips for Fertilizing Your Lawn in the Fall

Control pests

A close-up of a sod webworm moth (Eudonia sabulosella) with tan and brown speckled wings resting on a green grass blade surrounded by lawn vegetation.
Sod webworms lay eggs in lawns, and the larvae feed on grass blades causing brown patches. Photo Credit: Sean Clifford / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 4.0

You may still treat grubs in September. Other fall pests include:

  • Cutworms (a type of caterpillar)

  • Mole crickets

  • Sod webworms

Mow for the last time

Keep mowing until growth stops or the lawn goes dormant, gradually lowering the height but never below your grass’s recommended height. Avoid scalping on that final cut: as Mary Helen O’Leary of Heroes Lawn Care in Omaha, Nebraska, notes, “removing too much grass at once stresses the roots.” Growth slows near 60 degrees, so watch your forecast.

Clean up your yard

Rake or blow fallen leaves so they don’t smother your grass or harbor pests. When the leaves pile up, Lawn Love’s leaf removal service can clear them for you.

Winterize your lawn

Most fall tasks already help winterize your lawn; see “How to Winterize Your Lawn” for the full routine. Subtropical lawns can skip this.

Winter warm-season lawn care: December, January, February

Early Winter
Avoid foot traffic on your lawn if there is frost. Photo Credit: Pxhere

In cooler regions, winter lawn care is minimal, just occasional watering and maybe one mow all season. Keep these in mind:

  • Avoid foot traffic

  • Apply weed control

  • Irrigate your lawn

  • Mow if needed

For a fuller guide, see “Winter Lawn Care for Warm Climates”.

Avoid foot traffic

Once your lawn is dormant, avoid repeated foot traffic, which it can’t repair until spring. Limit activity to one section of the lawn.

Apply weed control

Spray or pull any winter annuals you spot, such as chickweed, purple deadnettle, and henbit. If late winter turns warm, apply pre-emergent to prevent spring weeds.

Read more: Most Common Winter Weeds

Irrigate your lawn

Dormant grass still needs about one-half inch of water a week. Switch to manual watering to avoid overwatering.

Mow if needed

Some grass grows slowly in winter. Mow only if it looks unruly, keeping the height the same or higher to protect it from the cold.

FAQs

How often should you do lawn maintenance?

It varies by task:
• Water 2 or 3 times a week (less when it’s rainy and cool).
• Mow once a week or more during peak growth.
• Fertilize 3 to 4 times a year.
• Aerate, dethatch, and amend soil as needed.
• Soil test every few years, or yearly if you’re tracking amendments.

What warm-season grasses are easy to care for?

The easiest include buffalograss, centipedegrass, and certain Zoysiagrass varieties. Learn more in “Low-Maintenance Grasses as Grass Alternatives”.

What order should I do lawn maintenance?

Do the most intensive, invasive tasks first. For example, aerate and dethatch before overseeding and fertilizing, or you’ll disturb seed and fertilizer and get patchy growth.

Read more: Guide to Warm-Season Grasses

Hire a lawn care pro to maintain your warm-season lawn

Caring for a warm-season lawn gets hectic, especially in summer. Whether you’re busy or would rather spend weekends on rest and relaxation, you can hand the work to a pro.

Lawn Love has pros ready to serve homeowners across the country, from mowing to a full lawn treatment service. Lighten your load with Lawn Love today.

Main photo credit: Stickpen | Wikimedia Commons | Public domain

Janine Caayao

Janine Caayao has always been fascinated with growing plants, from fruits and veggies to bonsai trees and orchids. Now, she’s interested in urban gardening with her family. She loves finding new tips and tricks to keep their plants thriving.