Weed prevention is an important aspect of having a beautiful lawn. The best way to stop these unwanted plants in their tracks is by using a mix of lawn care habits, natural solutions, and, when needed, the right chemical treatment.
Weeds steal nutrients, water, and sunlight from your lawn, making it weaker over time. The best way to control weeds is by using a combination of strategies. Regular lawn care, natural methods, and extra protection with pre-emergent herbicides work well together to keep weeds from invading your lawn.
In this guide, I’ll explain how to keep weeds from sprouting in your lawn. However, if weed control ever feels overwhelming, Lawn Love can connect you with a trusted local pro to get the job done quickly and effectively.
1. Mow the proper way
I’ve learned that mowing isn’t just about keeping your lawn short; there’s actually a correct way to do it. Here are some tips to help you mow the right way:
Mow at the tallest recommended height: Cutting your grass too short might look tidy, but it makes it easier for weeds to grow by giving their seeds more sunlight. Mowing at the tallest recommended height for your type of grass helps shade the soil, making it harder for weeds to sprout. A taller, thicker lawn naturally blocks out weeds, leaving them little room to grow.
| Type of grass | Suggested mowing height |
| Bahiagrass | 4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 4 inches |
| Buffalograss | 4 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 2 inches |
| Fine fescue | 4 inches |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 3 inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2.5 inches |
| St. Augustinegrass | 3 inches |
| Tall fescue | 3 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1 inches |
Follow the one-third rule: Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade in a mowing session. Cutting off too much at once stresses your lawn, weakens root growth, and creates openings for weeds.
Maintain your equipment: Dull mower blades tear the grass instead of cutting it. This makes your lawn more vulnerable to pests, disease, and weeds. Keep your mower blades sharp and clean your mower deck regularly to prevent the spread of weed seeds between mowings.
Vary your mowing pattern: Alternating your mowing pattern helps prevent soil compaction and encourages your grass to grow upright, not leaning in the direction you always mow. Upright, even growth gives weeds fewer chances to sneak in.
Time your mowing: Aim to mow your grass when it is dry, not wet or soggy. Wet mowing leads to uneven cuts and clumping. Also, avoid mowing during extreme heat or drought conditions. Your lawn is already stressed under these circumstances, which makes it more susceptible to weed invasion.
2. Water correctly
Too much water can weaken your grass and create the perfect environment for weeds to sprout. On the other hand, too little water can leave your lawn stressed and spotty, making it easier for weeds to take over. The best approach is to water deeply but infrequently. This encourages your grass to grow deep, strong roots, which helps it stay healthy and outcompete weeds.
However, your watering schedule depends on whether you have warm-season or cool-season grass. Below, I’ve outlined the schedule for each type of grass.
Cool-season grasses
- Grass types: Perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and fine fescue.
- How to water: Deliver 1 to 1.5 inches, 3 times a week. That means watering 30 to 45 minutes per session, depending on your sprinkler system’s output. To be sure, try the tuna can test.
Warm-season grasses
- Grass types: Bahiagrass, bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, zoysiagrass, and buffalograss
- How to water: Deliver ½ to 1 inch, 1 to 2 times a week. That means watering for 20 to 40 minutes, depending on your irrigation system.
Read more about watering in our guides:
3. Fertilize
Feeding your lawn properly is one of the best ways to keep weeds away. A thick, healthy lawn will crowd out weeds. Start with a soil test to find out exactly what your lawn needs. Then, fertilize as needed based on your grass type and growing season.
- Cool-season grasses should be fertilized from late spring through early fall, during their active growing season. Aim to apply fertilizer in early spring, and if needed, this second round should be done in early fall. Avoid fertilizing in the heat of summer when cool-season grasses go dormant.
- Warm-season grasses grow in late spring through summer and need the most nitrogen when they begin to green up in spring. Avoid fertilizing too early in the spring or too late in the year, as this can promote weak growth or stress the grass.
There are two main types of fertilizers: granular and liquid. Granular fertilizers are easy to apply with a broadcast or drop spreader and provide slow feeding over time. Liquid fertilizers work faster and are used for quick green-up. Whichever type you choose, always follow the label instructions and apply evenly to avoid burning the grass or creating patchy growth.
Always avoid fertilizing during drought conditions or right before heavy rain, as this can stress your lawn or lead to nutrient runoff.
My tip: To give your lawn an extra boost, I suggest adding compost as a topdressing. Composting improves the appearance of your lawn by enriching the soil, boosting microbial activity, and helping grass grow thicker and greener. It also improves drainage and helps the soil retain moisture.
Read more in our fertilization guides:
- When to Fertilize Your Lawn
- The Best Type of Fertilizer for your Grass
- How to Fertilize Your Lawn
- Benefits of Lawn Fertilization
- What is Organic Fertilizer?
- What is N-P-K? A Guide to Understanding Fertilizer Ratios
4. Soil management
A healthy lawn starts with healthy soil, and soil testing is the best way to know what your lawn needs. Test your soil every 3 to 5 years to determine if your lawn needs any type of soil amendment. Without this info, you risk over or under-treating your lawn, making it easier for weeds to invade. Here are some important soil care practices to help prevent weeds:
- Dethatch: Removing the thick layer of dead grass and built-up organic matter helps water, air, and nutrients reach your soil. Most lawns need dethatching every 2 to 3 years or when the thatch layer is thicker than half an inch.
- Aeration: Loosening compacted soil by aerating helps grass roots grow deeper and stronger, making it harder for weeds to compete. Most lawns benefit from aeration once a year.
- Proper drainage: Poor drainage can lead to soggy areas where weeds can grow.
5. Mulch
Mulch is one of the easiest and most effective ways to control weeds. Since weeds need sunlight to grow, a layer of mulch blocks that light, stopping them from sprouting.
There are two types of mulch: organic and inorganic. Both of them suppress weeds but they work differently. Organic mulches (like wood chips, straw, or compost) improve soil as they break down but need occasional replenishment. Inorganic mulches (like stone, fabric, or rubber) last longer with little upkeep, though they don’t enrich the soil.
Mulch works great in flower beds and around trees, but it’s not for lawns, where it can smother grass and block growth. Avoid overmulching. Too much mulch can limit oxygen to plant roots and lead to poor soil health. Keep your mulch layer between 2 and 4 inches thick.
Read more in our guides about mulch:
6. Edge
Edging creates a physical barrier that makes it harder for weeds to spread from surrounding areas into your lawn or garden. When edges are crisp and defined, there are fewer areas where windblown seeds can settle and establish themselves.
Edging can be done using specialized tools for a crisp cut or manually with a spade or edging tool; it all depends on your preference and the size of the area. Next, use plastic, metal, brick, or decorative stones to create a clean and effective edge.
This method effectively combats creeping weeds like Bermudagrass and quackgrass.
Read more about edging in our guides:
7. Landscape fabric
Landscape fabric is a breathable material that is placed over the soil to block weeds by stopping sunlight from reaching their seeds while still allowing water and air to nourish plant roots. It works well in flower beds and vegetable gardens.
My tip: I combine landscape fabric with mulch in my flower beds to add an extra layer of protection against sunlight. The result? Not a single weed in sight.
Read more about landscape fabric in our guides:
- Different Types of Landscape Fabrics
- How to Install Landscape Fabric
- How to Remove Landscape Fabric
- How to Use Landscape Fabric in a Garden or Flower Bed
- 10 Best Landscape Fabric Alternatives
8. Cardboard or newspaper
If you’re looking for a simple, eco-friendly way to block weeds, leftover cardboard or newspaper can do the trick. By layering them over your soil, you smoother existing weeds and prevent new ones from sprouting by blocking sunlight.
For best results, slightly wet the cardboard or newspaper before laying it down. This helps it mold to the ground and stay in place more easily. However, it’s a good idea to weigh it down with rocks or cover it with mulch, especially in windy areas. Just note: while effective, this method isn’t the most visually appealing on its own.
9. Pre-emergent herbicides
If your lawn is healthy and well-maintained, you may not need herbicides at all, recommend the experts at the University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources. But if you’re dealing with stubborn annual weeds like crabgrass, a pre-emergent herbicide can give you an extra layer of protection, as long as it’s used correctly and in combination with good lawn care.
Pre-emergent herbicides don’t kill weed seeds; instead, they stop young seedlings from sprouting. Once the weeds are visible, it’s too late for pre-emergents to work. Always follow label directions and avoid disturbing the soil after application, or you risk breaking the protective barrier the herbicide creates.
When to apply pre-emergent herbicides: Apply them between February and April, when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees, to target summer weeds, and again between August and October, when soil temperatures drop to about 70 degrees, to target winter weeds.
Read more:
- Types of Pre-Emergent Herbicides
- What Are Pre-Emergent Herbicides?
- When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides
- How to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides
10. Overseeding
Overseeding is the process of spreading new grass seed over your existing lawn to make it thicker and healthier. A dense lawn helps block weeds by leaving them little space or sunlight to grow.
Strategic overseeding also strengthens your lawn during times when it’s most vulnerable. Overseeding in the fall helps prevent spring weed invasions, while spring overseeding fills in thin spots or patchy areas caused by winter damage, making it harder for summer weeds to take hold.
For best results, mow your lawn short, loosen the soil surface, spread the seed evenly, and keep the area moist until the new grass is established.
Read more:
- What is Overseeding?
- 10 Benefits of Overseeding
- Seasonal Guide: Overseeding Your Lawn in Fall, Summer, and Winter
- Reseeding vs. Overseeding a Lawn
- How long after overseeding can I mow?
11. Close planting
In flower beds and vegetable gardens, spacing plants closer together can reduce weeds by limiting the amount of open soil where weed seeds can sprout. When your plants grow together, they create shade that blocks sunlight from reaching weeds, making it harder for them to survive.
12. Groundcovers
Using low-growing plants like clover or creeping thyme can help prevent weeds by forming living mulch. These types of plants spread across your soil, blocking sunlight and competing for nutrients, which makes it tough for weeds to establish themselves.
Read more: Fast-Growing Groundcovers for Shade
13. Native plants
Native plants are well-adapted to your local environment, making them naturally stronger and more resistant to weeds. They grow well with fewer fertilizers or pesticides and can outcompete invasive weeds for space, water, and nutrients.
You can choose from native flowers, shrubs, and grasses to add to your landscape. This will create a weed-resistant garden that also benefits local wildlife and pollinators.
Lawn Love offers native plant guides for every region. Go to our blog and use the search tool to find information for your state.
FAQ about weed prevention
The most effective weed control method is a combination of strategies. Lawn care maintenance, natural methods like mulch. Added protection with physical barriers and pre-emergent herbicides to prevent weed growth.
Yes, it’s likely that clippings contain weed seeds, so bagging them will prevent the seeds from spreading back into your lawn.
Yes, homemade weed killers are usually cheaper than store-bought ones. Common ingredients like vinegar and dish soap are inexpensive and can be very effective. However, keep in mind that homemade solutions may not be as long-lasting or powerful as herbicides, and they may need to be applied more often.
Find a lawn care professional near you
Even with the best care, weeds can sometimes sneak into your lawn and garden. If they start getting out of control, you don’t need to fight them alone. A weed control professional can help you get rid of stubborn weeds can keep your yard looking its best.
Sources:
- “Controlling Weeds by Cultivating & Mulching.” Clemson Cooperative Extension
- “Weed Management in Lawns.” University of California Integrated Pest Management Program
Main Image Credit: Khaligo | Adobe Stock Free | License
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